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  • Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

    Got the 60 last week. Have run it twice. Rick had offered to help me get ahead of the curve. I'll accept.


    Got it with 90' 5/8, and 150' 7/8.

    As on Monday, will have the 90' in a ?motorcycle tire? hopefully, and have the 7/8 divided into two or three tires/carriers.

    Rick and others: for 2", no trap (outside kitchen cleanout, roof vent), do you run the 5/8 or 7/8? I ran 7/8 through 2" CI and did get hung up a little.

    Seems like, versus IC drum cable, that it's a bit more resistant coming back out--have to keep cable turning. With the IC drum, I would stop every 3 or 4' and make sure I can pull back, and then keep going, but the open wind doesn't want to pull back like that--so I guess it will be a bit more nerve racking. If I hadn't already said this, I'm pretty tense until the cable's safely out. Been hung up numerous times--two times were really bad. Didn't think I was going to make it out.

    So far, in a week, I don't regret buying it. But I'm not totally at peace yet either. But that's normal. I'm assuming it's going to be a good decision.

    Is it necessary to tighten the chuck set screw? With the cable guide attached, chuck isn't going to turn much, it seems to me.

    Seems like a pretty fine line between the 5/8 being too lose and too tight. But I've got all of thirty minutes experience.

    The last piece of metal that the cable touches before it enters the drain--round steel thing. Is it easily replaceable? The way you pull out a half circle and then engage, and then pull out a half circle, and then engage--looks like that last piece of metal will take a lot of wear.

    So what's the little set screw for on the front--a backup for the chuck set screw? Part 16 on the schematic.

    Scary on the roof with sections falling down stack. Which they easily would. Let go for one second and it's gone. Yikes. Yes, I know you secure the cable, but even in the process of securing the cable, let go for one second and it's gone.

    A bit difficult to attach and unattach the sections wearing gloves. Especially attaching the 5/8, which doesn't have the bevel.

    Looking forward to hearing from you.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

    2" Pipe No Trap- 5/8"
    Proud To Be Union!!

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    • #3
      Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

      That there was a good 20 reasons I'd never buy a sectional.


      Ridgid is smart though; they sell both so either way it's a win-win.


      I wouldn't drain clean if I had to handle the equipment that much. Too much effort, too many trips to the truck and the cable is not spinning continously from the time it enters the drain till the moment it retrieves.
      Northern Kentucky Plumbers Twitter Feed | Plumbing Videos

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      • #4
        Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

        Originally posted by buyfield View Post
        As on Monday, will have the 90' in a ?motorcycle tire? hopefully, and have the 7/8 divided into two or three tires/carriers.
        I prefer to keep mine in the carrier. I roll it up and spray the whole reel with wd-40. I can't do this with a tire.

        Rick and others: for 2", no trap (outside kitchen cleanout, roof vent), do you run the 5/8 or 7/8? I ran 7/8 through 2" CI and did get hung up a little. 7/8 with a straight auger head but this is only if I can see the line such as a crawl space and it's pvc. For galvanized I would run 5/8.

        Seems like, versus IC drum cable, that it's a bit more resistant coming back out--have to keep cable turning. With the IC drum, I would stop every 3 or 4' and make sure I can pull back, and then keep going, but the open wind doesn't want to pull back like that--so I guess it will be a bit more nerve racking. If I hadn't already said this, I'm pretty tense until the cable's safely out. Been hung up numerous times--two times were really bad. Didn't think I was going to make it out. Sometimes you have to rotate it while pulling the cable out

        So far, in a week, I don't regret buying it. But I'm not totally at peace yet either. But that's normal. I'm assuming it's going to be a good decision. Don't give up.

        Is it necessary to tighten the chuck set screw? With the cable guide attached, chuck isn't going to turn much, it seems to me. Not sure but I tighten it anyway

        Seems like a pretty fine line between the 5/8 being too lose and too tight. But I've got all of thirty minutes experience. You're absolutley right and I asked Rick this same question when I first used mine. I place the cable in the machine, turned off and hold the handle down. I then turn the back end until the handle gets raised in the middle position.

        The last piece of metal that the cable touches before it enters the drain--round steel thing. Is it easily replaceable? no idea

        So what's the little set screw for on the front--a backup for the chuck set screw? Part 16 on the schematic. no idea

        Scary on the roof with sections falling down stack. Which they easily would. Let go for one second and it's gone. Yikes. Yes, I know you secure the cable, but even in the process of securing the cable, let go for one second and it's gone. I attach the sections from the back end while holding the handle down. Once the section is attached, I let go of the handle and unwind my cable and dissconnect it from there. If you ever have to run the 60 on the bottom side of the roof vent, run the macine in reverse and the back end closer to the vent so you're feeding the cable from the front end. This allows the weight to be foward so it doesn't want to tip backwards.

        A bit difficult to attach and unattach the sections wearing gloves. Especially attaching the 5/8, which doesn't have the bevel. Easily taken care of with a dremel and a pink chainsaw sharpening stone.

        Looking forward to hearing from you.

        Thanks!
        Another great feature about sectionals. If you ever have to make a sharp turn such as a closet bend or 2 way cleanout, put the machine in reverse and pop the handle quickly while having cable loaded in the pipe. Do it fast and the auger will go right down. Once you can hand feed the cable, put it in foward and away you go. Sometimes are sharp turns the auger wants to bite into the pipe and just stay in place so this is an easy way around that.

        If for some reason you have to keep the cable spinning in one place such as you're on a hard stoppage, have some water to pour where your cable is bent out the cleanout. The machine spins so fast that that bent part of the cable will heat up. I discovered this when I had to clean those urinal lines.

        If you ever deal with 6" pipe, get some of general IC sectional. I was very impressed with this cable on those pisser drain lines. I just bought 4 more sections from "cable center of st. louis". They have a special right now, buy 3 sections get the 4th free. I got 4 sections for 160. Fergusons wanted to charge me 70 for 1 section. See what I mean Robert?
        Buy cheap, buy twice.

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        • #5
          Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

          I can't imagine an advantage to using a tire other than the cost of a cage. All of my cables are in cages. The correct size cable for a 2" line would be the 5/8" cable. While you should be concerned about losing a cable down a stack it has not happened to me in 30+ years of using sectional machines. If you have to let go of the cable you simply put a loop in it and stick the unattached end into the open drain/vent.

          Mark
          "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

          I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

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          • #6
            Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

            ToUtahNow: Do you use cages even inside?

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            • #7
              Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

              I like using a tire to hold my sectionals in. Its easier carrying it on the shoulders, and wont drip all over the place, plus it holds more cable in the tire then in the cages. Just take a hole hog and drill yourself a hole on the tire for drainage.
              The History of Sanitary Sewers Good site on the history of sanitary sewers and cleaners

              www.thedrainsquad.net Our website

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              • #8
                Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

                Originally posted by buyfield View Post
                ToUtahNow: Do you use cages even inside?
                Yes I leave my cloth runner folded underneath it and have never had an issue. Another advantage to the cages is you can pressure wash you cables without laying them out on the driveway.

                Mark
                "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

                I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

                  all i can say is ben is the master now

                  we all have our tricks and bens are very good.

                  i have used my pin wrench/ key to lock the cable in the machine on a roof vent. just insert it in the cable just prior to the rear of the machine and it will stay there.

                  i too use the cages for my 5/8'' and 7/8''. the 1.25'' i use a motor cycle tire.

                  tighten up the rear clutch assy to lift the handle as ben mentioned. you don't need to tighten the set screw. also a good idea to grease the zerks every couple of months and clean the muck from the clutch/ bearing assy inside.

                  i will look at the part#16 once i post and see what it is.

                  part #16 set screw is the access hole for the thermal overlaod reset on the motor. i've never needed to reset mine and i've put the machine to it's max torque and never tripped the overload.

                  i rarely use on rear hose assy. but keep it oiled so it doesn't rust stiff.

                  i use a 2'' long section of 1'' hdpe pipe (yellow gas) on the rear guide horn. tap the pin hole with a 5/16'' fine to help secure the yellow pipe. this acts as a nice bushing and will elimante any steel to steel wear issues there.

                  once again there is a learning curve with any new style machine.

                  i'm sure if you stick with it, you'll know why ben, mark and i talk so highly about the might k-60 impressionator.

                  robert even referred me to a main line today/ tonight that the impressionator made a lasting impression on. it was a 4'' main line stoppage with only a 2'' c/o. the 7/8'' cable with a bent auger head did a great job on the roots and baby wipes at 45' in on the 4'' clay line. try doing that with a 3/4'' drum machine

                  rick.
                  Last edited by PLUMBER RICK; 02-10-2008, 11:36 PM. Reason: part 16
                  phoebe it is

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                  • #10
                    Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

                    Thanks Aaron, Ben, Mark, Drain Medic, and Rick. Very helpful!

                    So when you bend an auger head, do you keep it bent forevermore, for those situations?

                    All right, cages it is. They're lighter, and I'll just haul them out in a trashbag if I've been inside.

                    Rick, do you do anything to protect the front guide horn?

                    Looking forward to trying your sharp bend method, Ben.

                    Rick (and others), I've got a question for you at the end of my 3800v60, 7500A v B thread (Prof Plumb Forum) re: whether to put $700 on a 1500A or upgrading my 7500 to 3/4. Would love to get your opinion.

                    Thanks!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

                      Actually, Rick, I told you wrong. Question is on Drain Cleaning forum under "7500: 3/4IC".

                      Thanks!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

                        Originally posted by buyfield View Post
                        Thanks Aaron, Ben, Mark, Drain Medic, and Rick. Very helpful!

                        So when you bend an auger head, do you keep it bent forevermore, for those situations?

                        yes. it's now a specialty cutter and will work for those tight situations.

                        just like last night on a 2'' c/o with 7/8'' sectional and cleared roots and baby wipes on a 4'' line. the bend will stay straight in the 2'' and spring open to the bent position on the 4''. this allows for more coverage/ scraping in the 4'' pipe.

                        All right, cages it is. They're lighter, and I'll just haul them out in a trashbag if I've been inside.

                        actually they are pretty dry coming out if you cleared the drain. there is no tight wind or innercore to trap water and the high speed of the cable 625rpm will shake off the water. so it's not as messy as you think

                        Rick, do you do anything to protect the front guide horn?

                        not yet as it is replaceable and has not shown any wear yet. just the rear.

                        Looking forward to trying your sharp bend method, Ben.

                        Rick (and others), I've got a question for you at the end of my 3800v60, 7500A v B thread (Prof Plumb Forum) re: whether to put $700 on a 1500A or upgrading my 7500 to 3/4. Would love to get your opinion.

                        Thanks!
                        read other post

                        rick.
                        phoebe it is

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

                          Originally posted by PLUMBER RICK View Post
                          all i can say is ben is the master now

                          we all have our tricks and bens are very good.
                          A student is a reflection of his teacher. Thanks Mr. Myagi
                          Buy cheap, buy twice.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

                            I made this simple carrier that hangs off the k60 so I don't need to carry the oem toolbox. I like it. Notice the pvc in the gloves in the 3rd pic. This keeps the gloves open so they can air out and reduces the mildew smell which is worse than sewage.
                            Attached Files
                            Buy cheap, buy twice.

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                            • #15
                              Re: Helping me get ahead of the curve on k60

                              Just a thought, from a guy that doesn't own a k-60. On the chance of loosing a section down the stack, How about snapping on a vise grip over the cable as a safety,while connecting?????
                              I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

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