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  • It won't do it!

    I finally found something the K-6 won't do and it's driving me nuts. Not that I had far to drive.

    When I have to clean through a closet flange, it goes down the flange, turns, goes into the tee in the stack, then goes up. Up. I don't want it to go up!. I want it to go down. In the past, I've had some luck with a bent head, but I've tried the unbent bell-shaped head, the bent one, a plain cable, a straight retriever, a root saw - I haven't got anything else to work with.

    The problem seems to be when there is about an 18" drop from the flange, and a short pipe between the closet bend and the tee. Apparently, it starts to curve around the 90 and when it gets to the tee it keeps curving. I worked on one today for hours and could not force it to make the bend. Although I can go up on the roof and look down the vent, the roof is quite steep and there's no place to set the machine. Tomorrow, I'm going to try to set the machine on a part of the roof with less slope and run the cable through a pipe to the vent.

    Does anyone have an easy fix for this? Usually, the thing will go down eventually if you keep trying, but this one won't cooperate.

  • #2
    Re: It won't do it!

    2 things to try and i know 1 will defiantly work.

    try running the machine in reverse rotation. sometimes that's all it takes to change course and go the other direction.

    then i know for a fact that this will work as i've used it myself many times to guide a cable where to go.

    put a bend in the last 6'' like a 45 bend. even the reverse auger will keep you from destroying a cable as it's designed to bend and open up in larger pipe.

    now lay the cable flat and approx 4' from the lead end, clap your vice grip with the handle in the same orientation as the bend. do not put the cable in the machine at this point. your handle of the vice grips is the reference mark to the bend. use the handle to know what way your leader is pointed. in your case you should see the first bend at the closet bend, then push to the tee and point the handle down to help ease it through the tee. once through, remove the vice grip and slip the cable into the machine. guaranteed to work or your money back

    rick.
    phoebe it is

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    • #3
      Re: It won't do it!

      Mr., you are 1 clever sewer monkey. Good forum name !
      I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: It won't do it!

        But I did reverse the direction a number of times without success. And I mentioned the bent auger - that usually works eventually. I'd been thinking of using a soapstone to mark the cable in the opposite side of the bend, but hadn't done that yet. And I should have mentioned that I'm working in a very small, long bathroom. Working with bare cable is going to make a mess.

        My plan is to go up on the roof with about a 10' 2" pipe and run the cable through that over to the vent on the steeper part of the roof. The other part of the roof is steep, too, but not as bad. I'll get back to you on how it worked.

        I also occurs to me that the entire stack below the toilet tee may be solid plugged. When I first pulled the closet the drain was near plugged with hard water buildup. I broke that out and removed it. But who knows how many years toilets were leaking into that stack?

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        • #5
          Re: It won't do it!

          there should not be a mess. the cable is clean and dry and you're only hand feeding the cable into the line to get a feel with the vice grips as a position marker. the machine is not turned on or hooked up until you feel the drop and push in past the bend.

          it's very common on 1.5'' and 2'' san tees to plug at the tee allowing a smaller more flexible cable to turn up. but i can't see a 3'' or 4'' tee from a toilet plugged so solidly that the the cable wants to bounce off and go up. you sure it's not a back to back?

          do you have any kind of camera to push into the line and watch the drop into the tee. even the 3' micro explorer will work for this. just hand feed the snake and watch the monitor. if the line is full of standing water, pump a little out to get a clear view.

          of course the roof eliminates any mess or pulling the toilet, as long as it's not too steep to work off of.

          rick.
          phoebe it is

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: It won't do it!

            There was nothing plugged in the tee. There is no way that I could tell exactly why it was going up, but it's an old house with one bathroom upstairs and one below in the basement. 4" cast iron.

            The trick with a 2" length of pipe with 2 45 degree ells on the end worked to get the cable to the drain. It was a bit clumsy, but it worked. When I got to the bottom of the stack, the cable hung up. I was using the bell-shaped head. I brought that back out and replaced it with a straight retriever. That went through with some difficulty. I brought that back out and went back to the bell head. That still hung up. I ran it in reverse and it went through, then I ran it forward again and it was fine. I brought back mud, which should tell you something. The bell was hanging on the edge of a broken pipe.

            I've got it running again and someone with a camera is going to have to go through it before breaking or digging. That's if I can find anyone here with a camera that works. Mr. Rooter has two cameras but they're always down for repairs. He runs them for free so he can get the excavation work, and since he doesn't get enough excavation work he can't pay for the repairs. That's typical of this small town where just getting up the money to pay for a drain cleaning is hard enough for most people.

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            • #7
              Re: It won't do it!

              Had the same problem before. Rick is right with the reverse technique. I would add to pull out some cable to load up the bend and give some tension on the cable. Now with the machine in reserve, pop the handle real quick(fast down, fast up, no wait time between intervals). Push down on the cable with the other hand and it will go in. Only happens on CI. PVC or ABS goes right in.

              When the roof is steep, turn the machine around so the back is towards the vent and run the machine in reverse. This will spin the cable in the right rotation and changes the center of balance, keeping the k60 from tilting backwards.
              Buy cheap, buy twice.

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              • #8
                Re: It won't do it!

                I always take my belt off and used it to secure the machine to the vent. have a foam pad to sit on. But, if the roof is too steep, that means it might have a big enough attic to cut in a cleanout and clean from there.

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                • #9
                  Re: It won't do it!

                  Just thinking as I have not done any drain work from rooftops but why not make a support for the machine that you can hang over the vent pipe with an adjustable platform to hold the machine that you can strap on to the support. Could be made from some bent up Al tubing or even thinwall conduit would work.

                  Does anyone make such a thing now? If not patent pending, send me your orders. I have this thing all worked out in my head. Don't want to give it all away here but trust me you'll want one. In Ricks' case probably two or three.
                  ---------------
                  Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
                  ---------------
                  “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
                  ---------
                  "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
                  ---------
                  sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

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                  • #10
                    Re: It won't do it!

                    Lol i thought thats what the extension cord was for , its even adjustable for any situation

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