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replacing sleeve bearing

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  • replacing sleeve bearing

    last year i went through the semi-nightmare of replacing the bearing that fits onto the idler cone, which many of you have also replaced. it seems it's time to do sleeve bearing now: the handle does not release on its own, which is making it hard to pull the cable through, and something is popping when handle is being pulled or released. Grease did not help. ended up with a lot of grease down on the motor, so I've injected plenty of grease into the fitting, and worked the handle back and forth repeatedly but virtually no improvement. handle binds. i removed handle and determined that handle itself is not the cause. all i can figure is it's the sleeve bearing. springs are not obstructed. not looking forward to it.

    i'm considering, per advice from this forum in the past, to just ship to AJC. looks like would be a bit over $50 to ship there. and then i'd be without it for more than two weeks. five days to get there. five days to get back.

    but perhaps someone will tell me that they've done the sleeve bearing before and wasn't that bad.


  • #2
    of course, the more i think about it, the more i start wondering: wouldn't a bad bearing have trouble rotating. this isn't a rotational problem ( i don't think). it seems to be a problem with the "shaft with rack" sliding back and forth. hence the handle sticking. so a lube issue. which means maybe grease fitting doesn't actually get the grease where it's supposed to go. Hmmm . . .

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    • #3
      so much for the drama. just needed to detach the two springs, slide the whole shaft out, and clean the old grease off, which had become very solid, and regrease. so far so good. the overlap of the two pieces--the sleeve bearing and the "shaft with rack" is a LOT, and i guess that's why it was binding so bad. the grease fitting does not distribute the grease very well at all, and is probably not sufficient. getting the springs off, and then back on, was VERY DIFFICULT.

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