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Range Top 220 V wiring

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  • Range Top 220 V wiring

    We were recently changing out an old kitchen range top with a new model. No to to black...bare to neutral as it should be. However, the old model had been wired as follows:

    red - red
    black - black
    white wire from house to bare wire in the range metal conduit

    Why was the white wire from the house used instead of the bare? The bare wire had been specifically cut short to not be used. We wired the new model in the same as the old and all is good...but why not use the bare as expected?

  • #2
    Re: Range Top 220 V wiring

    That's because the old style 3 prong receptacles have the two 120v hot wires and the other prong is actually used for the neutral, not the ground wire. The grounding is done trough the neutral. In this case the ground from the range should be attached to the neutral/white. The range still needs a neutral connection to run 120v for things like the electronics such as clocks or lights. After 1996 or so I believe it is required for new receptacles/cables to use the 4 prong style which have a dedicated neutral and ground connection instead of grounding through the neutral.


    • #3
      Re: Range Top 220 V wiring

      Another note is most stoves I've dealt with have both a spot to connect the neutral and the ground. The default from the manufacturers is to bond those two together with a piece of metal.

      Current code requires a 2 hots a neutral and a ground. If you think the stove doesn't have a spot for the ground connect the white to the neutral and us a self tapping screw to connect the bare copper to anywhere on the frame.


      • #4
        Re: Range Top 220 V wiring

        If your exsisting range wire from your electrical panel has a BLACK, RED,AND WHITE WIRE and if it is Romex, it has a bare wire too, If it is BX type wire it will only have the 3 wires. You have 2 options, direct hookup from house wire to new range or to put on a plug and an outlet. If you have a white wire coming in...YOU MUST USE IT!! It is NOW code to have a 4 wire connection to a range. SO, look at your range, it may have a green wire that goes to the neutral, if it does, disconnect it from the nuetral and ground it to the chassis of the range. Hook up the wires from the house HOT-HOT- NUETRAL and ground the bare wire to the chassis of the range. If you have BX, the outer jacket of the wire is ground and will automatically ground when you install the wire on the connector. You can install an outlet on the house wire (4 prong) and add a 4 prong pigtail cord with plug to the range which maKes it easy to disconnect if you have to move the range out of postion. OK? Lou


        • #5
          Re: Range Top 220 V wiring

          Some older Romex did NOT have a ground conductor and was much like SEC cable. The thinking was that you didn't need (but you really do need) a grounding conductor for a range or electric dryer because at the point of service neutral and ground are bonded (connected) together. This is bad because the neutral wire will not be at the same Voltage as a true ground. You would do well to bring things up to current code for safety reasons. If worse comes to worse connect a green ground wire from the steel case of the range to a known good ground.


          • #6
            Re: Range Top 220 V wiring

            Thanks for the replies...I want to make sure I've got this:

            Option 1
            Install 4 prong outlet into the box and a 4 prong pigtail cord.

            Option 2 (this is what I need clarrification on)

            Range Red connected to House Red
            Range Black connected to House Black

            Range Bare connected to ?? range chasis? or keep it attached to House White

            House bare connected to ?? range chasis?

            I'm sorry I didn't quite follow all of the suggestions for what exactly to do with the range bare, house white, and house bare to bring it up to code.


            • #7
              Re: Range Top 220 V wiring

              The right way would be to start fresh making sure you have 2 hots (black and red) at the receptacle box alone with neutral (white) and a good ground which can be bare copper (house wiring) or a new conductor (green) from the load center (fuse box or breaker panel). When you say conduit in your first post, is your wiring inside steel tubing or galv iron pipe? If yes, that will be your ground.

              Sorry, but I'm a bit confused as to just what you have there.

              As to option 1 that is what you want to end up with but the receptacle (outlet) has to be properly connected. There are other options which are not current code, but which will work. One is to use a non grounding power cord and receptacle and then ground the chasis using a ground wire from it to a known good ground. I don't like this and would recommend updating if such can be done.

              What I need to know is what exactly is coming into the receptacle box. Is it a conduit (steel tubing) or BX (flex steel jacket over wires) or Romex (plastic jacket). Also, is there a bare copper wire (house wiring) there.

              You do want to end up with black and red as your 2 hots and connected as such to the range/stove. The white is neutral and should only be as such. As for ground that can be the bare copper wire (if there is one in the receptacle box) or the steel tube or jacket over the wires.

              Let's first see if you are ready for the newer and proper type receptacle to be installed. If yes, then you also want to use the proper 4 wire power cord. If not then we need to be sure that neutral serves as only neutral and run a ground to the range/stove.

              Only at the point of electrical service entrance should be neutral and ground (earth ground) be connected. In many older houses and even commercial buildings you'll find where the neutral and ground where connected. This was not good, but it was done.
              Last edited by Woussko; 09-07-2007, 12:16 PM.


              • #8
                Re: Range Top 220 V wiring

                Sorry for the confusion...getting back to the basics here is what is coming into the receptacle:

                The range wires are BX - flex steel jacket over the wires. Inside the jacket are only a black, red, and bare.

                There are 4 house wires coming into the receptacle: black, red, white, and bare.

                Hope this clears it the best course of action is...?


                • #9
                  Re: Range Top 220 V wiring

                  OK This to be really sure.

                  Forget about the old range as you're replacing it if I understand right. You may as well take it outside to be junked.

                  Assuming I understand coming into the box where the new receptacle would be installed you have (This is house wiring) black, red, white and bare. If yes, that's grrrreat.

                  You would need to get a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. That's 50 Amp. 125/250 Volts (rated) with ground. You'll see 3 slots and a U for ground.

                  You will also need a 4 wire power cord with plug to match the receptacle. Be sure the wrapper says it's for use with a range/stove.

                  Be sure to read and understand the wiring instructions that come with the receptacle. Below is a picture of the receptacle face of the correct type. You'll need a proper cover/plate too.

                  When it comes to connecting up the power cord the black and red are both hot and if you switch them it's OK. The white is neutral and must be connected as such. The green is ground as is the bare wire. They must be connected so as to ground the frame/chassis of the range/stove. There should be wiring instructions with the new range/stove showing connections.

                  On older electric clothes dryers and ranges/stoves they didn't use a grounding conductor. This was because in your main fuse box or breaker box the neutral and ground are bonded (connected) together. Where this can be very bad is that if there are 120 Volt loads then the neutral is at a Voltage different from ground and in some cases neutral may well not even be connected to ground at all. Today because people have been zapped changes in the interest of safety have been made. A good many older all metal case power tools didn't have grounding. :EEK: and people did get zapped because of it.

                  For some crazy reason people are too cheap to think on the side of safety when doing so will cost them more. What they aren't thinking about is how can you put a price on your well being and that of other people you care about?

                  NOTE: It would be wise to have an electrician work with you on this project. I would hate to read about a goof having been made and the results from such.
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by Woussko; 09-08-2007, 05:00 AM.