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Staple Romex Within 8-12" can Lite?

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  • Staple Romex Within 8-12" can Lite?

    Does stapleing romex within 8-12" of a "box" apply to can lights in an attic? Using Halo cans with push in wire "clamps". Seems dumb to have to staple the romex to framing and then backtrack to the light when the light end up right next to framing member. Any feild experience with those new push in wire connectors? Easy to use - do they remain tight connections long term compared to conventional wire nut?

  • #2
    Re: Staple Romex Within 8-12" can Lite?

    'Stormin,
    It depends on how the can is situated next to the rafter (or joist), and where the wire enters the can. If it looks like it needs a staple, follow your gut and put one in. If it IS secure and doesn't need one, don't worry. I will go back a day after installations and tack in a few extra staples here and there where it looks like it may need one. This keeps inspectors happy and off your back. Last thing you want is an inspector questioning your competence on a job. Also, as you're running your Romex (NM) keep it straight and neat as your running it along a joist or rafter or through walls. Neatness DOES count and the NEC even references that all work shall be done in a neat and orderly and good workmanship manner. Do soft curves, no tight ones, as you're turning corners with Romex. I like to leave myself a little extra just outside a box, especially when I'm connecting everything up inside the breaker box. I let myself have some work loops above in case something needs to be added to or changed later. I'm not wild about the push-ins, but I'm sure others are. I know the push-ins in the back of receptacles and switches and other devices are worth $hit in my humble opinion. I prefer wire nuts (others on here, mostly from Canada, may refer to them as Marets -- same thing. With solid wires, just hold the two together and twist on the wire nut. With stranded, twist the wires together with your fingers and then twist on the wire nut. With a solid wire, and a stranded, put a tiny L or bend in the tip of the solid wire, hold the solid and the stranded together and put on the nut. And test your connection after you have finished. Try to pull one wire out of the connection, if it's loose or doesn't seem tight, crank it down a little more. More DIY's than anything, make the mistake of not making their connections with wire nuts tight. Hope this helps and good luck. Let us know how it goes as you progress. If more questions, please ask.
    Jim Don

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    • #3
      Re: Staple Romex Within 8-12" can Lite?

      Thanks Jim & Everyone. Yeah - that remindes me. I wired up quite a bit of stuff years ago thinking that wire nuts were just put on while holding the wires next to each other. Then I read in a book or something about twisting them together with plyers first! Good times... Good times. None have burned down that I'm aware of!

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      • #4
        Re: Staple Romex Within 8-12" can Lite?

        Originally posted by 'Stormin View Post
        Thanks Jim & Everyone. Yeah - that remindes me. I wired up quite a bit of stuff years ago thinking that wire nuts were just put on while holding the wires next to each other. Then I read in a book or something about twisting them together with plyers first! Good times... Good times. None have burned down that I'm aware of!
        Most wire nuts are rated as pressure connectors and twisting the wires together is not a requirement. It is a good practice however and I recommend doing so.

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        • #5
          Re: Staple Romex Within 8-12" can Lite?

          I haven't seen any issues come about with the push in connectors. We only use them in lighting fixtures when they come with them or when doing larger commercial jobs. We never use them for junction boxes or outlets.

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