Announcement Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Water Heater Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Re: Water Heater

    Well, I haven't heard from them yet but I expect to.

    I want to say thanks to everyone who helped me out in this process. I have done this dozens of times and never had this much trouble.

    I didn't change the elements today but I guess I will tomorrow. Any special tips on how to change them without draining the tank?

    Kevin

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: Water Heater

      Originally posted by SlimTim View Post
      Yaa, it only takes a second to fry it.
      Do the continuity test that MP mentioned to see which one is fried. (although it may show continuity even if fried. You would have to do a voltage check to be sure. But 8 times out of 10 it will be right) If the tank was cold then it's going to be the top one.

      After you've replaced it (again!) and you've filled the tank up, plug it in and in 3 hrs come back, unplug the tank and feel the tank around the bottom element. If it's hot then everything is copacetic.
      Sure an element can show continuity if its fried....that means its grounded to the tank. You test for that by touching one probe to an element screw and one probe to bare metal of the tank. Repeat for the second screw on the element. Its 100% accurate.

      Power must be off and both wires removed from the element screws then foloow these 3 steps.

      1. Both probes to both screws should read continuity.
      2. One probe to one screw and one probe to the bare metal tank. Should not read continuity.
      3. One probe to the other screw on the element and one probe to the bare metal tank. Should not read continuity.
      Last edited by TheMaster; 02-13-2011, 10:45 PM.

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: Water Heater

        Very fast especially if you are doing the bottom element without draining the tank .If you are lucky the heater will airlock and glug out a bit of water Have the new thermostat ready..Of course this should only be attempted in an area that it doesn't really matter if a bit of water comes out ..crawlspace, unfinished basement, etc..If there is a floor drain nearby go for it...
        ''Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" Benjamin Franklin

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: Water Heater

          Turn the power off
          When changing the elements without draining the tank 1st turn the water off. Relieve the pressure from the hot side system. MAKE SURE ITS COMPLETELY OFF. close the faucet you relived the pressure from...if you relieved the pressure at the relief valve,proceed.
          Remove the 2 wires from each of the elements.
          Stuff a towel between the outter steel sheetmetal jacket of the heater and the bare metal tank.

          Get your new element ready with the gasket on it.I use a touch of pipe dope too.

          Remove the old element,making sure the old washer comes out with it. if it doesn't put the old element back in...or quickly remove the old gasket and slap the new one in all in one motion and tighten it in.

          Attach your two wires under the two screws.

          Turn water back on and run some at the faucet to remove air.

          Turn power back on.

          Becareful not to get the thermostats wet.

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: Water Heater

            [QUOTE=TheMaster;332521]Sure an element can show continuity if its fried....that means its grounded to the tank. You test for that by touching one probe to an element screw and one probe to bare metal of the tank. Repeat for the second screw on the element. Its 100% accurate.


            Not necessarily. The element may be fried but not grounded to the tank. If it were grounded to the tank would it not trip the circuit breaker when power was put to it? Just asking.
            I prefer removing the wire from one side of the element and putting the power to the element with the remaining wire. Then test for 120 from the empty terminal with your tank as the ground.
            If you get 120 then that element is fine and the problem is elsewhere.
            "Man will do many things to get himself loved, he will do all things to get himself envied." Mark Twain

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: Water Heater

              Originally posted by SlimTim View Post
              Sure an element can show continuity if its fried....that means its grounded to the tank. You test for that by touching one probe to an element screw and one probe to bare metal of the tank. Repeat for the second screw on the element. Its 100% accurate.


              Not necessarily. The element may be fried but not grounded to the tank. If it were grounded to the tank would it not trip the circuit breaker when power was put to it? Just asking.
              I prefer removing the wire from one side of the element and putting the power to the element with the remaining wire. Then test for 120 from the empty terminal with your tank as the ground.
              If you get 120 then that element is fine and the problem is elsewhere.
              No it will not always throw the breaker when its grounded to the tank and it can even still operate. Thats why i do an amp draw test with the element running. If theres a problem with the element it will not read the proper amperage for the given voltage vs the wattage of element.
              Last edited by TheMaster; 02-14-2011, 08:29 PM.

              Comment

              Working...
              X