If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You will be required to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
MAINTENANCE NOTICE: The site will be down for extended maintenance on Sunday, October 2, 2016, between 12 Noon and 6 PM Eastern. We apologize for any inconvenience!
could have the control box checked out to make sure you capacitors are as good as they should be,
Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
"The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
attributed to Samuel Johnson
PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.
My post #15 is a bit confusing and complicated so let's try it the more simple and easy way.
1. Shut off circuit breakers feeding power to the transfer device.
2. Totally disconnect the pump wiring so you have the wires out in the open. There's not need to remove them from the main load center, but just have them out in the open for access.
3. Rig up a short piece of 10-4 type S or SJ cord with a L14-30 (or other as needed) plug so you can plug it into the super extension cord that runs from your generator to the transfer device.
4. Wire the pump to this. The white wire gets a wire nut as it's not needed.
5. Start and warm up generator. After a few minutes plug in the plug of the super extension cord that was connected to the inlet of the transfer device into the generator, but first make sure the female end is not connected to anything.
6. Now go and plug in the temporary power cord plug into the connector of your super extension cord. Be sure you have people that can hear the generator and someone near the water storage tank so someone can hear water flowing from the well pump.
Only leave it connected for about 5 seconds if the pump doesn't start up or the generator really grunts and keeps grunting hard. You do not want to end up with generator damage or damage to the pump motor or controller. If it just won't start, then please stop for now.
The next step (if it just won't start and run ) is to try to make the wiring as short and direct as you reasonably can. Also, please do take Voltage readings of your generator under no load and if you have 2 portable heaters try plugging in one and then the other. What does the generator do with them both plugged in and making heat?
With a deep well and a 3/4 HP pump there will be pretty hefty starting current requirements. It would be interesting to measure the starting current when it's powered off the house circuit.
One final thing you might try, if you have one that you can borrow, is to simply try another generator and maybe one with a higher rating. A good heavy duty USA built model will have a good bit higher surge power output than a lighter built one, and especially the China made imports.
This is only a thought, but about how far is it from the pump controller (if you have one) or the pressure switch over to your transfer device and from it to your load center (breaker panel - fuse box)?
Sometimes changing from say #14 or #12 wire to #10 can result in a needed lower Voltage drop and make a big difference. This is especially true if you have a long wiring run.
WARNING: Be sure to earth ground your generator before starting it up. Failure to do so can result in your getting zapped real bad and/or in equipment damages. This warning is for all users of portable generarators. Please be sure they are well grounded before starting the engine.
humm I never much believe name plate ratings on typical home gennys.I always figure if you get 75% continuous of the rating your doing good.Something that comes to mind too is how old is the transfer switch? are its contacts corroded or burnt or have carbon on them?Every transfer switch I've watched draws a nice little arc as it slaps in.Think of it like points like in an older car..theres metal transfer and carbon formed then add in sitting not being used with air corroding the contacts making a nice little resistor .The pump is trying to start as it transfers?Does the contacts in the transfer really make total contact?Notice too a genny always grunts down when a load hits it so its doubtfull your making full voltage/amperage ie wattage output for like 5 to 10 seconds.Sounds like your starting it under a pretty good load, water gets heavy fast.Like Woussko said try hooking the pump direct to the genny thatd eliminate a few possibilities right off.I don't know if I ever messed with that brand transfer switch before but many out of the box new don't make a nice full contact on the points.
Just a couple more things to check ...Sam