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Big Bore Coppper

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  • Big Bore Coppper

    Any one out there have any experience soldering copper over 2"? What's the trick?
    What do you use for torch, oxy/acet, air/acet, mapp or propane? How about solder and flux, what do you use or recommend?
    <BR>

  • #2
    Large copper is soldered using a multiple head air acetylene forked burner. The solder is the type for installation by the specification, usually no-lead. The preparation is normal with reaming, abrasive cleaning and applied paste flux. The trick is to apply it and tap lightly, periodically with a mallet. The Copper Institute has a video, I believe.



    [This message has been edited by Harold Kestenholz (edited 09-05-2000).]
    <A HREF=\"http://www.hydronic.net\" TARGET=_blank>http://www.hydronic.net</A>

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    • #3
      Follow your heat! ....What? I'm just going for my calendar!

      ------------------

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      • #4
        I agree with Josephine. The method of following the heat. I.E. getting the pipe hot enough to get the solder to pull into the fitting. Heat is what makes everything work in the joint.

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        • #5
          I use a oxy/acetlene torch with a rose bud for anything over 1 1/2" if this is for hvac use it should be brazed with silvaoloy 15 or harris stay-silv 15%

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          • #6
            Big Oxy-Acet rig for anything over 2". Forget the little bottles of Mapp and propane gas with small torch heads, it won't get the copper hot enough.
            Using a large tip with an oxy/acet tank, heat all sides of the line evenly....heat one side of the line, then direct the flame on the other, so that the solder flows evenly into the joint and you don't have any cold spots. I always use No-Korrode flux. Plain 95-5 solder or as Stubby says Silver Solder for other applications or for buried lines.
            The tank and tips you'll need are'nt cheap, so before you buy one figure out whether it will be cost effective for you to own one (doing more than just one 2"++ sweat job).
            D.M.

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            • #7
              I have found that a simple air/acetylene tank works fine but i usually use the biggest tip for it.Start by heating the pipe and fitting as evenly as you can.After i have it hot enough(when the solder starts to run)i start out at the bottomf of the joint and work my way up the sides,to build up a shelf,so to speakthis way the stuff on the bottom does,nt run out.After i'm sure i have enough solder in the joint i wipe it with a rag all around just to make sure the solder is in the joint good and to wipe off any excess that may be hanging on the bottom.To do a joint on the flat its basically the same thing except that i know i have enough solder in the joint when a fillet is developed between the fitting and the pipe.Hope this helps.

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              • #8
                Ooops.I forgot to mention i usually use a turbo tip as opposed to a narrow flame tip.

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