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  • #16
    Fox, by turning the fan switch to on, do you mean continuous running? The unit now goes on and off with the fan. What do you mean by "check the temp rise of the unit"--does that mean the humidifier or the furnace? Thanks, Jim


    • #17
      humid probs

      yes . 24 hour fan . this is the only way to get more run time now with out bakeing your self out of the house. the humid will run more but only on a call on the humidstat. as long as it is powered by the fan. the reason u move the water line to the cold is it will cost $ becuse it will run a lot more and it cost a lot to heat water. your evaperation will be less due to cooler air temp also so you may want to throttle the water feed down a little, but you get a lot more run time. u dont want to shut it down to much becuse u want water to still wash the minerals down the drain off the pad . the problem with putting a bigger furnace in is if it is not set up right it will eat itself. gas pressure and temp rise and dirty filters are the biggest killers of effency and death of the heat exchanger. look on the name plate inside the door of the unit ( furnace) . usally on the left or right side. it will say temp rise of ( example of 2 ) 35 to 65 or 40 to 70 . this is the difference in tempture of the supply (hot) minus the return ( cold ) if u are greater poor effency, it eats parts , short cycles , crackes heatexchangers. if u are less than that it condenses to early rotting out the heat exchanger and lack of buts . take 2 thermonthers stick one in the return drop and the other in a round out of line of radiation sight of the heat exchanger on the supply side. if to hot speed up the fan if to cold slow down the fan. if the fan cant go higher ill let u know a couple of tricks at a later date.

      here is the difference 30,000 can make . and yes there are exceptions ( heat loss, winter design temp. heat gain ). but a 1000 sq ft house at 30 btus a ft ( new houses tend to take 30 to 35 btus a foot ) general rule depending on ins factor

      a 6" round can push 100cfm of air (general rule depending on length and elb )
      a 45,000 btu furnace will work on 6 heat runs
      a 70,000 on the same ducts wont ( over temp ) and yes this is just one type and keeping both variables the same.

      ps rember to turn the humid off in summer.
      pss i have a 80,000 btu 2 stage and it walks with a 1940 2 story farm house 1500 sqft easy. only kicks on high after 10 min of constant run usally when -1 or colder


      from the color of the unit a it looks like a goodman. furn
      Last edited by wiarticfox; 03-22-2006, 10:31 PM.


      • #18
        1220 threaders problems ?

        i got a new 1210 threader today . has any one herd of any issues with these?

        thanks fox


        • #19
          OK, an update. I have checked the temp differential as fox instructed and have subsequently set the fan on low. (runs much longer now and fits the recommendations) I also installed a booster fan in the line from the humidifier to the return air. (wired with the fan) I have water taps on both hot and cold so I can choose. :-) Current status is--House is comfortable and I think the humidity is rising. The only clue I have at present is both my Better Half and myself have less of a "dry nose " problem. I am sure it takes a while for a dried out house to get up to speed. Thanks to everybody for their help.



          • #20
            Providing that your humidafier is wired in the same way as befor the new furnace, it sounds like your higher btu's is meeting your demand faster and not allowing the humidafier to run long enough. plus don't forget, as the air is being heated it's also being dried.


            • #21
              sounds like the new furnace with higher BTU's is satisfing the Tstat faster than the old furnace and it is not running long enough to fill the need for humidity.
              wire it so the humidistat can operate the blower in "fan only mode"