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  • 3/16" brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

    I am new to this & have decided to take a project on of relocating my proportioning valve & making & bending my own brake lines.

    I just purchased ridgid SS tubing cutter (model 97212 15-si) & tubing bender (model 403). whats the best way to use the cutter (keep in mind I have never used one before) - do I need some sort of oil? are there any instructions anywhere? I briefly tried to cut a piece of tubing & I had to tighten & untighten the cutter & reposition it multiple times (I don't think this was right)

    I did purchase cunifer tube (roll) from fedhill (http://cunifer.com/). Cunifer is a copper nickel alloy used for brakelines. I do plan on purchasing some cheap steel line - to practice cutting / bending / & flaring

    lastly all the fittings are -3an - so I purchased a an Imperial 37 degree flaring tool, does anyone have any tips for using this as well

  • #2
    Re: 3/16" brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

    You have a lot of basic question that need some pics to answer them effectivly. Go to HD and pick up a plumbing book and it'll show you all the things you need to know about that. I can tell you that I like to make my bends first then cut to length and flare.
    Buy cheap, buy twice.

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    • #3
      Re: 3/16" brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

      thanks for the advice

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: 3/16" brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

        Glad to see your helping this guy with his brake lines Ben, but I thought you didn't like stealing another trades job?

        If he kinks it, then it breaks, then he'll lose pressure, well you know the rest.
        Proud To Be Union!!

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: 3/16" brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

          I really don't care about mechanics and I never said that. I do all my own work on my vehicles and for what I can't do, I have friends that will do. That's the great thing about working on cars, there's always leftover parts for next time.
          Buy cheap, buy twice.

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          • #6
            Re: 3/16" brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

            are there any instructional websites? or PDF files I can DL

            I can't make it to home depot - lol my car is in (many) pieces

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            • #7
              Re: 3/16" brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

              I've plumbed the brake lines on many race cars including my own. This is the only flaring tool I use. http://www.jerrybickel.com/tools-and...lair-tool.html The insertion depth is automatically set. This tool is also available from your local Parker house.

              If you are doing the entire car this kit is a great starting point. http://www.jerrybickel.com/brake-kit...-jbrc5014.html You need to buy a few extra fittings for a line lock and brake pressure gauge.

              Make sure you deburr the inside of the line before you try to flare it. I use an 1/8" drill bit.

              As for using a tubing cutter. Wow. If you cant figure that part out I'd recommend letting a pro handle this task for you. Are you sure the tubing cutter will cut as small as 3/16".

              Andy

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              • #8
                Re: 3/16" brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

                might wanna check your flare degree

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                • #9
                  Re: 3/16" brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

                  Just a thought.

                  Do modern vehicles such a cars and light trucks still use a "double flare" connections on brake systems?

                  The double flare is designed for high pressure.

                  Just wondering.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: 3/16" brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

                    Originally posted by stokefire7 View Post
                    might wanna check your flare degree
                    I am using all earl's steel -3an fittings, bulkheads, tube nuts & tube sleeves - which use 37 degree single flares. I am also using earls -3an to 10mm aadpter fittings to the Master Cylinder, Propvalve & caliper SS braided lines.
                    although its suggested you never use single flare on steel tubes - its 100% OK to use single flares on cunifer tubing

                    does the jerrybickel flaring tool make 37 degree flares? EDIT - <-- yes

                    as for my cutter working with 3/16's - YES Ridgid 97212 model 15-SI is made to cut 3/16+'s stainless steel

                    please forgive my stupidity in the questions asked... I am sure I have much to learn but work as an accountant & my hobby is my car

                    fyi - i found this on using the cutter... obviously I overtightened & thus was unable to properly rotate the cutter
                    Cutting Tubing:
                    1. Position tubing cutter around pipe and tighten knob until pipe is snug between blade and rollers.
                    2. Turn the knob an extra one-half revolution for the first cut.
                    3. Spin tubing cutter around the pipe, making complete revolutions. Do not spin the cutter back and forth as this may bend the pipe.
                    4. As the tool begins to cut the pipe, tighten the knob to keep pressure on the cutting surface.
                    5. Continue spinning the cutter and tightening the adjustment knob until the pipe is cut.
                    6. Use a reamer to remove any burrs formed on the surface of the pipe.

                    my last question on the imperial eastman 400-f flaring tool. how far out should the tube stick out from the dye?
                    Last edited by 6spd_ek; 09-14-2008, 01:16 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Re: 3/16&quot; brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

                      I would check Imperial's website. Many flaring kits have a different measurement for how far the tubing sticks out. My ritchie flaring tool needs it to be flush while many other companies require it to stick out about a nickel thickness. Just practice with it.
                      Buy cheap, buy twice.

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                      • #12
                        Re: 3/16&quot; brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

                        sorry, I do see a an in there.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: 3/16&quot; brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

                          I have a suggestion for you, hope it helps. Being this is automotive,I'm picturing lots of obstructions. IMO if you take # 12 solid wire, hand bend to route and around obstructions. With that you can see actually how long a piece you get into place and have a pattern to boot. Hope this helps
                          Mike

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                          • #14
                            Re: 3/16&quot; brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

                            Oh, you can lay the wire between two pieces of plywood roll them back and forth which will straighten it ( same goes the tubing) also look up some fittin' formulas,

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: 3/16&quot; brake line work - questions on tube cutting, bending, flaring

                              thanks for all the help I got a reply back from imperial eastman with a PDF file for the 37 degree flaring tool. another try with the ridgid 15-SI cutter (this time not too tight) & it cut easily with a couple of spins

                              I must say the imperial eastman (rol-air) 400F was expensive but it makes some of the cleanest flares (unlike a $40 tool from summitracing)

                              I hope to have an update in a couple of weeks with pics of my finished project. basically there will only be a few inches of line in the engine bay. the lines are run thru the firewall using bulkhead connections & the majority of tubing & proportioning valve sit inside behind the dash.

                              & thank you stoke for the good tips
                              Last edited by 6spd_ek; 09-18-2008, 05:01 PM.

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