Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

How i get it up

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #46
    is this the correct lifting eye?

    http://www.e-rigging.com/half-inch-machinery-eye-bolt

    and is this the correct bell reducer to screw that lifting eye into?

    https://www.plumbersstock.com/blkbr1...ZSEfgodcIUMRA#

    or do you need to get a plug to screw into the end of the bell reducer and then drill/bolt the lifting eye into the plug?

    i'm trying to recreate this:
    Attached Files
    Last edited by plumberpaul; 04-03-2017, 11:26 PM.

    Comment


    • PLUMBER RICK
      PLUMBER RICK commented
      Editing a comment
      yes. for a 75 with 1'' ports.

      Rick.

  • #47
    It's been 10 years since this thread was started. At 45 back then, I had no problem getting it up. Now at 55, I use more thinking. 75 gal. heater weighing 267# and needed to be lifted 18'' platform, around the steel post and into an aluminum smitty pan without crushing the pan or dinging the heater.

    The new method was 2- 1/2'' threaded sammy lags with 1/2'' lifting eyes. used a 3/4'' pipe with fittings on the end to prevent pull out. the heater has 1'' nipples. used 1'' tee and a 1x 3/4'' tee with 3/4'' nipple screwed into the tee to prevent pulling out. using the 1 ton chain hoist makes for a simple 1 hand lift. no sudden jerks like from a come-along or an electric winch. Block and tackle doesn't allow me to let go. always need to hold onto the rope. with the chain hoist, it has automatic no hands braking.

    Took out the old heater and installed the new heater. pretty straight forward. left the sammy screws up there for the next time in 10 years?

    Rick.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181029_121618581.jpg
Views:	132
Size:	1.80 MB
ID:	736552
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181029_121602858.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	2.11 MB
ID:	736553

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181029_121752309.jpg
Views:	121
Size:	2.15 MB
ID:	736554
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181029_122031923.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	2.11 MB
ID:	736555 Rick.
    Last edited by PLUMBER RICK; 10-30-2018, 12:00 AM.
    phoebe it is

    Comment


    • #48
      Awesome! Unfortunately for me water heaters are installed in the basement so it's a 2 person job. A electric stair lift is too expensive and last hurdle are hack handyman competitors and hack plumbing companies and HD who hire out of province company with bankruptcy prices and pileup fees and more fees once they are on site. People get suckered for 225$ install and they don't bring anything up to code or pay the permit.

      So the end result, I only installed 2 water heaters this year and both did a tantrum for the bill.
      Last edited by Pro Service; 10-30-2018, 06:16 AM.

      Comment


      • #49
        Originally posted by PLUMBER RICK View Post
        It's been 10 years since this thread was started. At 45 back then, I had no problem getting it up. Now at 55, I use more thinking. 75 gal. heater weighing 267# and needed to be lifted 18'' platform, around the steel post and into an aluminum smitty pan without crushing the pan or dinging the heater.

        The new method was 2- 1/2'' threaded sammy lags with 1/2'' lifting eyes. used a 3/4'' pipe with fittings on the end to prevent pull out. the heater has 1'' nipples. used 1'' tee and a 1x 3/4'' tee with 3/4'' nipple screwed into the tee to prevent pulling out. using the 1 ton chain hoist makes for a simple 1 hand lift. no sudden jerks like from a come-along or an electric winch. Block and tackle doesn't allow me to let go. always need to hold onto the rope. with the chain hoist, it has automatic no hands braking.

        Took out the old heater and installed the new heater. pretty straight forward. left the sammy screws up there for the next time in 10 years?

        Rick.

        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20181029_121618581.jpg Views:	1 Size:	1.80 MB ID:	736552
        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20181029_121602858.jpg Views:	1 Size:	2.11 MB ID:	736553

        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20181029_121752309.jpg Views:	1 Size:	2.15 MB ID:	736554
        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20181029_122031923.jpg Views:	1 Size:	2.11 MB ID:	736555 Rick.
        Nice Rick. Only thing I would do different is to add something to keep the hook centered if you're not going to use a two leg bridle or a leveler device like this one. I'm looking at the location of the WH and your rigging setup and it seems to me you would have to pull the WH sideways which could easily cause it to shift on the pipe, or are you counting on that to slide the WH over to the floor by shifting the chain fall at the ceiling?

        Click image for larger version  Name:	leveler device.png Views:	1 Size:	71.3 KB ID:	736558

        This one is from Lowes but there are many similar ones from other sources, all less than $75 so not going to break the bank. Your piece of pipe with the hook in the center (metal to metal, nice and slippery) has nothing to keep it from slipping that I can see. All you have to do is get a little off balance and the whole thing goes sliding left or right, maybe slamming into you or a wall and doing some damage. Same goes for up top. Fine a way to lock the top hook of the chain fall down so it can't slip. If it does then ALL the load goes to that one anchor which may or may not hold. You've probably got everything over engineered but it doesn't take much for a 275# load to become a 2000# shock load when the load shifts.

        You could use some 1-1/4 nipples slipped over the 3/4 pipe on either side of the hook to keep it centered. Doesn't need to be anything fancy.

        Another way to do this would be two chain falls. One placed over the WH at its current location and the second one centered over the location where you want to drop the WH down to the floor. You hook up both chain falls to a eyebolt or shackle attached to the top of the WH so that both are capable of holding the load at the same time. Pick up the WH with CF#1, then transfer the load to CF#2 by raising CF#@ and lowering CF#1. Keep going until all the load is on CF#2 then lower to the floor. No pipes needed at the ceiling.

        A third way would require building a trolley ahead of time. Get a piece of unistrut, the standard 1-5/8 x 1-5/8 stuff not the thin strut. Attach it to the ceiling with anchors, lag bolts, what ever you need to handle the load. Get a trolley that fits in the strut and hang your chain fall from it. Pick up the WH and trolley the load over to the point where you want to drop the load and lower it right on to your waiting hand truck or dolly.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	unistrut trolley.png
Views:	94
Size:	48.4 KB
ID:	736559

        It's shown upside down in the photo above. Insert in strut and hang your CF from it. Should be able to handle 300# with adequate anchors like multiple 3/8 x 3" lag screws with washers under the lag screw head into three or more joists. Remember to add the weight of your rigging into the total load. A CF plus some other rigging could be 50# or more.
        Last edited by Bob D.; 10-30-2018, 09:09 AM.
        "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006
        "?ǝɹɐ sɹǝƃuıɟ ɹnoʎ ǝɹǝɥʍ ʍouʞ noʎ op `ʍɐs ǝlqɐʇ ɐ s,ʇı"

        https://www.youtube.com/user/PowerToolInstitute

        https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1p...qcZKHyrqKhikFA

        ----

        Comment


        • #50
          Way too much thinking. 267# is like feathers. The hooks stayed planted until I dragged the unit forward to cut down on the angle to clear the platform. Then a simple 1 hand guide to clear the edge of the platform.

          I have that centering device you pictured. I use to use it for my heavy threader that I would hoist into my van. The heavy end was the motor. Slid a 2" pipe through the center of the machine and straddled the chain front and rear. Adjusted the centering to level it off

          But since the heater is not out of balance like my threader, no need to do more work.

          The heater easily lifted with 1 hand spinning the chain. Since it has such a large gear ratio, it takes a lot of easy pulling to lift an inch. No sudden movement like an electric winch I use to use .

          The homeowner left for 5 minutes to pick up lunch and missed the excitement. That's why I wasn't in the photo. No camera man to get me in the photo.

          Installing was just as simple. Once again the automatic braking and long chains made for simple work with 1 hand spinning chain and 1 guiding the heater to the center of the pan.

          Easier than any heater install I've ever done with my block and tackle, winch or come along. No sudden shock loads or jerks. Slow and steady with the chain.

          Rick.



          phoebe it is

          Comment


          • Bob D.
            Bob D. commented
            Editing a comment
            Chain fall is definitely the way to go. I have spent many an hour pulling on chain falls in my career and doing real rigging not water heaters. Glad your luck held out.

            Just because it worked for you doesn't mean it is safe. Yes, it's only 267#. Always better to take a chance over doing it safely. You say overthinking, I say you're under thinking it. If "what could go wrong?" is not part of your rigging plan, you're not asking all the questions you need to.

            I am happy it worked for you Rick. I am worried about those with less knowledge and experience than you who find your post here and try to duplicate your plan and it fails because they didn't think it through.

        • #51
          be safe. It looks like little dangerous.

          Comment

          Working...
          X