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  • Help with thread taper?

    Seems I have had this problem with several 300 machines over the years, any suggestions? The threads I make seem to have less of a taper than factory threads, I set machine to have appx. 3 turns by hand into new C.I. fitting, pipe seems to start into fitting and starts to tighten, and then gets loose again, then buries too far into fitting before getting tight. I try setting threads shallower, but then I have trouble starting pipe into fitting and when tight, too many threads are showing, I like to see 3 or 4 threads on the outside of joint after tight. Machine has new Ridgid H.S. dies and new die carriage, What gives? It seems when I use factory nipples, they seem to have appx. 2 to 3 turns hand tight, but when I tighten, they seem to bottom correctly, 3 or 4 threads showing. also, how many turns by hand do others set their threads to? As a kid in the fab shop, we were taught 2.5 to 3.5 turns by hand for 1 to 2" pipe, 2" always got 3.5 turns.

  • #2
    Re: Help with thread taper?

    Originally posted by AZsprinkie View Post
    Seems I have had this problem with several 300 machines over the years, any suggestions? The threads I make seem to have less of a taper than factory threads,
    the taper is set by the dies themselves, not how deep you are cutting the threads.
    I set machine to have appx. 3 turns by hand into new C.I. fitting
    are the fittings foriegn, have had many problems with consistant threads in the fittings with foriegn stuff CI or DI. DI seems to be the worst for this.
    , pipe
    is this foriegn pipe, have had some with "soft" spots in them
    seems to start into fitting and starts to tighten, and then gets loose again, then buries too far into fitting before getting tight. I try setting threads shallower, but then I have trouble starting pipe into fitting and when tight, too many threads are showing, I like to see 3 or 4 threads on the outside of joint after tight. Machine has new Ridgid H.S. dies and new die carriage, What gives? It seems when I use factory nipples, they seem to have appx. 2 to 3 turns hand tight, but when I tighten, they seem to bottom correctly, 3 or 4 threads showing. also, how many turns by hand do others set their threads to? As a kid in the fab shop, we were taught 2.5 to 3.5 turns by hand for 1 to 2" pipe, 2" always got 3.5 turns.
    same here
    I would suggest to try a different brand of pipe and a domestic made fitting just to see if that changes anything.

    As far as having to use up what pipe and fitting you have on hand to finish your job, what I have done in the past is to set the dies on the machine to give you, say 2 turns by hand and then the threads will crush on down to give you a proper wrench tight make up.

    Are you using teflon tape, personally I only use it some times for 2", but always for 2 1/2" and larger. The tape is very slick and will let you over tighten the fittings.

    As long as it does not leak and is tight everything should be good to go. I don't like it either but that is just part of the territory sometimes.

    I feel your pain brother!!

    G3

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    • #3
      Re: Help with thread taper?

      how about the oil? is it good fresh oil?

      the dies you have are universal npt #47750 alloy 1-2'' npt. or 47770 high speed 1-2'' npt.

      they also make a straight thread set too. 47860 npsm.

      you do have a matched set #1,2,3,4.

      rick.
      phoebe it is

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      • #4
        Re: Help with thread taper?

        Thanks for the input guys, I think I resolved the problem I was having, it seems that my supplier inadvertently sent me a combination of schedule 40 and eddy thread " I think schedule 30" threadable thinwall when they fabbed my order. It seems that when threading the thinwall, you have to set dies a little shallower than the sch 40. Luckily this pipe had a CRR "corrosion resistance ratio" acceptable to building owner, some brands of thinwall don't. Normally I only use sch 40 because in the past we had trouble with the thinwall pipe thread actually breaking off while threading, unless your dies were very sharp, not a problem with sch 40. What are your opinions of this threadable thinwall pipe?

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        • #5
          Re: Help with thread taper?

          I hate the crap myself, threadable thinwall is what we call it, sch 30 pipe.

          I keep some one inch around for making gunner pieces out of, lighter to carry around in your pocket.

          There use to be quite a bit of it used around here but everyone has shyed away from it. I think the eddylite is made by bullmoose, we had what ever it was made by allied.

          Have to be careful about breaking it off at the threads also.

          I only use sch 40 pipe for threading mainly in the 1" to 2" and sch 10 pipe for roll grooving 2 1/2" to 8".

          Glad you got it figured out, had not even thought about threadable thinwall.

          G3

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          • #6
            Re: Help with thread taper?

            If you're using the 811-A die head, I think I know your problem. I've experienced threading taper issues with these heads. With excessive wear the tongue and groove adjustment gets out of alignment. You can recalibrate and put new markings for the different sizes or, like me, you can buy a new die head.

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            • #7
              Re: Help with thread taper?

              Originally posted by Plumbus View Post
              If you're using the 811-A die head, I think I know your problem. I've experienced threading taper issues with these heads. With excessive wear the tongue and groove adjustment gets out of alignment. You can recalibrate and put new markings for the different sizes or, like me, you can buy a new die head.
              Yep,me like you,Big Bucks Paying Dividends.
              I think I'll put a bigger/better plasma cutter on the same order.
              Send Joey some flowers while we're at it.She's always getting left out of the loop(I don't know where this coming from).

              Adam

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