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  • Roll Grooving sched 10 stainless steel

    Greetings,

    I have a project where we need to roll groove some schedule 10 304 stainless steel pipe. A couple of 10" grooves, 14 8" grooves, a couple dozen 6" and 36 2" grooves. I am looking at a new 915 manual machine or a lightly used 918 (supposedly a showroom demo unit used for just a couple of grooves). My concerns are that the 915 will be too slow, but the 918 will need new rolls so we won't contaminate the stainless. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Can the 918 roll be cleaned? The pipe is for DI water. When the project is done, the groover will likely be on the shelf for a few years.

    Thanks,
    Dave

  • #2
    Re: Roll Grooving sched 10 stainless steel

    As far as cleaning the roll groover just take a stainless wire brush to itwith some acetone. No need to buy new shaft and roller. Just don't wash out the grease on the roller pin.

    The hand groover will be a little slower but it is not too bad. A chain vise will be a good device to hold the pipe and not crush it. What type of machine do you have to pull the 918 with, need to make sure it has the right base on it to fit the machine (300, 535, etc.).

    Cutting the pipe is also a bit of a big deal, it needs to be cut square to the pipe, I personaly like the four wheeled hinge cutters, can't be beat for hand cutting.

    You will need two sets of rollers and shafts for the different size of pipe you have. The 2" to 6" will be one shaft and roller, and 8" to 12" will be another set. The grooves are set back further from the end of the pipe and are a little wider.

    G3

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    • #3
      Re: Roll Grooving sched 10 stainless steel

      Thanks for the advice G3. We have a horizontal bandsaw that I was planning to cut the pipe with. Of course there is a risk of it not making a square cut. I'll look into the hinged cutter. I'm guessing it would be a little more fool proof.

      -Dave

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      • #4
        Re: Roll Grooving sched 10 stainless steel

        Originally posted by dstebs View Post
        Greetings,

        I have a project where we need to roll groove some schedule 10 304 stainless steel pipe. A couple of 10" grooves, 14 8" grooves, a couple dozen 6" and 36 2" grooves. I am looking at a new 915 manual machine or a lightly used 918 (supposedly a showroom demo unit used for just a couple of grooves). My concerns are that the 915 will be too slow, but the 918 will need new rolls so we won't contaminate the stainless. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Can the 918 roll be cleaned? The pipe is for DI water. When the project is done, the groover will likely be on the shelf for a few years.

        Thanks,
        Dave
        Rent a groover and specify new wheels or buy your own new wheels so you can start with fresh, clean ones. If you have no further need for the tool after this job is done rent and forget might be a better choice. Why store a tool you will use only once? Plus you can write off the rental cost where a purchase will have to be depreciated over time. If it breaks down, call the rental co and get another one ASAP. if you own it then you will have to wait for the rep to come fix it or DIY, both of which will cost your project time which equals money down the drain plus the risk of incurring delay damages depending on your situation.
        ---------------
        Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
        ---------------
        “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
        ---------
        "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
        ---------
        sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Roll Grooving sched 10 stainless steel

          Well when i done it we used a pipe wrap to draw a strait line around the pipe with a sharpie and used a hand held bandsaw to cut it. was pretty fast once u got it down.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Roll Grooving sched 10 stainless steel

            personaly like the four wheeled hinge cutters,
            On thin wall pipe they can track easier. 4 inch is easy with a portaband.
            ---------------
            Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
            ---------------
            “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
            ---------
            "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
            ---------
            sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Roll Grooving sched 10 stainless steel

              Just starting the transition to sch 10 304L/316L stainless steel Victaulic instalations from sch 40/80 steel instalations. I have two primary questions:

              1) What pipe spec's should I be looking for in regards to type of welded or seamless pipe to use in a maintenance retrofit replacement of sch 40 carbon steel, welded joint, potable cold water service with working pressure of 80 psig? Keep in mind this pipe will be roll grooved and Victaulic coupled. My main concern is if using welded seam pipe, what type of welded seam pipe is easily roll grooved eg. will a slightly raised weld bead on the exterior or interior of pipe affect the roll groooving or ring sealing or must it be ground smooth and if so, what method.

              2) The second question is in reference to cutting 2" to 8" sch 10 ss pipe. I have and will be using a T-Drill PCS8 saw but am concerned with blade life. I know I need a good square cut with minimal burs etc. and I feel the T-Drill PCS8 will give me that but on stainless steel the blades will have a short life. How do the wheel cutters work on sch10 ss in the 2"-4" range? How do the wheel cutters work on sch10 ss in the 6"-8" range? What about any lip forming on the inside of pipe? Does this lip need to be addressed and if so how?

              Thanks in advance for any help.

              Mitch
              Last edited by STP; 01-15-2010, 01:20 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Roll Grooving sched 10 stainless steel

                I roll groove sch 40 and sch 10 black steel pipe almost daily, and all have a weld seam inside the pipe (I dont do DOM or seamless). When grooving you will notice a slight "bump" as the wheel and shaft roll over it but other wise not a problem.

                There should not be a weld seam bead on the outside of the pipe but if there is just knock it off with a file. The only place the rubber seals is from the groove to the end of the pipe.

                If there is a burr on the inside of the pipe just take a half round bastard file and knock it out, it is not so bad if you don't on the sch 10.

                I know nothing of the t-drill saw. Hinge cutters or bandsaw work for me for roll grooving and the plasma cutter for welding on flanges.

                The 80 psi is nothing for the grooved couplings to handle, the light weight ones are rated to 175 psi, I have to hydrostatic test to 200 psi for 2 hours on all piping.

                Don't know what to tell you on the kind of pipe to use, not into stainless myself.

                G3

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