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    If pro press is used to stub out of a wall for a flushometer, what happens to the fitting when its time to torque down the screw driver stop. Is that pinched fitting going to spin?

    If there is a change for one reason or another can a pro press fitting be taken apart and reused?

    If a pro press fitting fails, does the warranty cover demolition work and repair?

    When clearances are tight and street fittings are required what is the solution in a pro press system?

    Do pro press fittings come with drop eared ells?

    These are just a few of the questions I was thinking about today.
    Work hard, Play hard, Sleep easy.

  • #2
    posted 08-30-2005 08:39 PM If pro press is used to stub out of a wall for a flushometer, what happens to the fitting when its time to torque down the screw driver stop. Is that pinched fitting going to spin?
    a.-no the fitting is tight enough to stay put, especially with a screwdriver. i wouldn't wrench on the stop as the crome cover casing will not fit. i would use a sweat kit as normal.

    If there is a change for one reason or another can a pro press fitting be taken apart and reused?
    a. no, but if you cut the copper tube back, you can still keep the assy for future.

    If a pro press fitting fails, does the warranty cover demolition work and repair?
    a. i doubt it. then again i haven't needed this yet. to be honest i would think that a failure caused by a manufacturer defect, the manufacturer would be liable too.

    When clearances are tight and street fittings are required what is the solution in a pro press system?
    a. there are street fittings available for propress. also the fittings can be rotated into place once they are pressed. if moved more than 5 degrees, you should repress the fitting. sort of like a swing joint.

    Do pro press fittings come with drop eared ells?
    a. yes on 1/2'', but pricey.

    These are just a few of the questions I was thinking about today.

    a. look at the link to propress for a detailed list of fittings and standards.
    also the fittings are made of copper that's heavier than type k. 2.5''-4'' are of brass and a stainless grip ring.

    plumber, this should give you a little more insight. now my wife wants to play with these new toys. she was amazed at an electric pipe threader a few years ago. the pipe burster is still a ? she can't get over the initial cost of that machine. i think she'll like the propress when i let her try it. don't tell her that i have 3. we'll keep that between friends.

    rick.

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    • #3
      Rick, If the pressed joints can be rotated what keeps the flushometer screwdriver stop from rotating when its installed? I know of no other way to install one other than using a wrench.
      Work hard, Play hard, Sleep easy.

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      • #4
        plumber, i always use a sweat kit when i install flushometers. this way the chrome covercasing can be used trim it out. i don't think that you use a regular copper x mip adapter?
        so with this said the other end in the wall, either coming off a tee or 90, should be properly strapped. a soldered on holdrite strap is what i use. i can't see overtighting so tight that the fitting will rotate prior to tightening the valve.
        the copper stub out could rotate if the valve is tightened excessivly. the joint won't leak, but the crimp should be recrimped to hold it in proper position. the rubber o-ring seal is factory greased and will rotate. the crimp only keeps the copper from pulling out. when the propress crimps the fitting there are 6 hexagon crimps on the pipe and fitting. the crimp doesn't run all the way back to the end of the tube. sort of like a copper fitting and tube that has been hit with a hammer in 6 spots. try to remove the fitting. keep in mind the seal isn't comprimised.

        rick.

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        • #5
          I use the sweat adapter that comes with the flushometer, but the valve must still be screwed on with a wrench.. There are many times where there is no room between the tee or ell and the inside of the wall for another brace. On standard sweat applications I simply use a drop eared ell or tee that is sweat spigot on all sides

          Perhaps after the pro press has been around awhile longer or I have been around pro press more I will change. I am not totally against it. Its just that Imnot comfortable with it in enclosed spaces or on a battery full of their fittings. With the proper tools and skill I think solder joints can still compete well with the labor savings of pro press given the cost of the equipment and fittings invloved.

          I've used the pro press on some 2 inch tie ins and liked it very much for that purpose. It is nice when there is water involved and there is adequate room for the tool.
          Work hard, Play hard, Sleep easy.

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          • #6
            plumber, do you use, or have you used a tee drill on the job? what have you done to properly secure the brazed joint? sort of like what is required on a propress joint. the differance is that propress will rotate and no leak. a brazed joint will fold.

            rick.

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