50 threads on 304 stainless, little pipe experience, what should I buy?

[Emesine]

Hello,

I am about to start a job involving putting together a low pressure line made out of 1.5 inch 304 stainless steel for my barn. I have minimal threading experience, but am resolved to tackle the job. I would like to purchase an electric threader/cutter for the job; I figure that a high quality tool will be the best for me to learn on. Is the ridgid model 300 the way to go? I see several cheaper options involving a Ridgid 300, but with off brand parts, making the entire unit much more economical. I plan on purchasing the tool, doing my job, then likely selling the tool after I am done (if I can part with such a great piece of machinery!)

Thank you all for your input!

[Mightyservant]

I'd find a local plumber or fire sprinkler contractor to thread the pipe for you, 50 threads is not a lot. Threading stainless is difficult and would not be a good material to learn on.

We use the Ridgid 300 on stainless and it will work very well provided you have good quality oil, dies for stainless steel and decent quality pipe. We do experience problems threading stainless but we are used to it and know poor thread quality can sometimes occur randomly for no apparent reason.

I would not attempt to thread stainless with anything other that genuine Ridgid threaders and dies. A high quality dark oil is critical. What's more critical when threading stainless is experience with other materials like brass and steel. Threading involves craftsmanship so the threads that you make are within acceptable tolerances and will assemble in a normal fashion, hold pressure and provide a solid joint.

[PLUMBER RICK]

I agree, get a fab shop to cut and thread the pipe. Even at $5.00 -$10.00 a thread, it's much cheaper than learning the hard way.

Proper pipe dope ans teflon are a must too. are jaw marks important?

Rick.

[Emesine]

OK, so if I do go stainless, make sure to buy good oil, high quality dies, and very high quality threader. Good quality dope and teflon. But you would both say don't do stainless if this is your first time threading. This is for my barn, so jaw marks are not an issue.

Stainless is my preference, but I can do standard steel. I'll probably want to do my own threading- I live pretty far from a good fab shop. If I do standard steel, would you still recommend going with the ridgid 300 and not one of the cheaper alternatives such as the toledo 300?

Thank you both for your advice, I really appreciate it!

[Mightyservant]

I'd would only use Ridgid equipment because it is the gold standard in pipe threading, cutting, fabrication and getting parts and dies is very simple and widely available.

The material you ultimately use depends largely on it intended purpose. You can use regular dies for black steel and galvanized pipe. Threading SS will require SS dies, they look the same but are not. I'd use the same great quality oil for any type of pipe.

Pipe sealants will also depend on the material and its intended use. Assembling SS threaded joint requires a sealant meant for SS or the additional light coat of an anti seize paste on the threads prior to assembling a joint.

If your determined to use stainless by all means do. Just make sure you gear up for it. When you have a bad thread which will happen with stainless, try to understand what's going on but at the same time don't dwell on it or you will go insane. Mone on, make a new thread.

[Emesine]

Thanks for the encouragement! I have a small job to do in 3/4 NPT. Maybe I'll gear up for stainless and try my luck on this small job. If things go badly, I'll do steel on the big job.

Can you give me the name of a high quality dark oil?

Thanks again,

[Mightyservant]

I've had great results with Oaty Hercules Dark cutting oil. Avoid clear oils. Get a box of cotton rags and a wire toothbrush. Use the toothbrush to clear away chips on the pipe after threading. The rags to dry off the oil on the pipe and to tidy up when your done threading for the day. By the way, up to 3/4 is less problematic. 1" and above is more challenging. 2" and up can be tough.