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Guys lets keep in mind Jerry has been doing hard labor for 40-years and has been mentioned earlier your body can take a punishment after all of those years. I hope you young guys have a just-in-case plan laid out because it is easier to become disabled then you may think. Our bodies are not a renewable resource so make your plans now.
I agree that if he is what he says he is he is entitled to any benefits coming to him. As a matter of fact I have advocated and voted for universal health care for everyone. I have also maintained that social security should be a right, and is a good thing.
What my comment was about was someone using the forum as an advertisement. Which he did.
Because plumbing parts are easy for any one to buy. Most plumbers lower there price. If you are in the HVAC trade where you have to show you are certified to buy parts,the price can stay on the higher end. I find it kinda funny that most of the guy I come across. Claim to take pride in there plumbing trade, yet they are the same ones who scream and yell at the plumber who charges more than them. I would charge as much money as you can for the work you do, It's your body that is taken the beating.
For those that don't embrace new technology, the name of our profession should be a warning. Very few of us work exclusively with lead. I am sure when they came out with cast pipe instead of hollow tree branches, some plumbers screamed bloody murder, then galvanised for water instead of lead, then copper instead of galvanised. Now pex is out there. I prefer pvc for dwv and copper for water, but I can pour and caulk lead joints. I am doing the plumbing now for a guy who does about 25 basement remodels a year. Mostly in Cook County. A lot of the towns there have cast iron undergrounds, then soil adapters and pvc above grade. I can make the pvc look just as sweet as the cast iron. A true mechanic makes his work look good, regardless of the material. In high-rises, yes, the dwv should be cast iron, but I think it's overkill in residential. Any schmuck with a hacksaw and can of glue can install plastic, but it still takes a mechanic to do it right.
My first years of apprenticeship were commercial, all copper & cast iron, top beam clamps, 3/8" & 5/8" all-thread, redheads, all no hubs above ground and resilient gaskets below, except when run in the same trench as potable or for cleanouts, and I did more then my share of running the main with a ladle of hot lead. When I got into residential I made the assumption that it was easier. I was gravely mistaken. Using a stud punch on steel studs is a far cry from using a 2-9/16" forstner with a right angle on lumber. Step off the ladder on commercial and notice your offset on a 3" branch is a little off...undo the clamp and recut, on 3" pvc you cut the whole thing out and redo it (if you didn't catch the error on dry fit). I take CI on residential over PVC any day, it's just classier, quieter and sturdier, but cost prohibitive. I've used tons of Wirsbo, I've also used tons of copper (of course). Copper has major drawbacks to plastic piping, lets not forget CPVC (oh boy..there'll be comments) I think I posted this on another thread, but here's why I have reservations on new plumbing: Class Action Lawsuit Filed Against Zurn Pex and Zurn Industries Relating to Failure of PEX Plumbing Systems in Homes Poly-Butylene revisited.