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  • Help with Water supply

    I am going to be helping the inlaws with a bathroom. The supply lines they have now are white (I assume pvc) that was put in around '75. I was planning on using cpvc on the new work and was going to just tie it into the pvc. I have not worked with the two of them togeter. How do I make those connections. If I had the time (they live over 350 miles away) I would just run all new pipe.
    Thanks for the help.

    I'm new to this forum so if I posted an old question or in the wrong area please forgive me and point me in the right direction.

  • #2
    Re: Help with Water supply

    The two are different materials so don't use a standard coupling. You can use a sharkbite http://www.cashacme.com/sbpush.php Although it says it's rated for use behind enclosed walls and underground, it's still new technology so give some forthought where you will install it.
    Buy cheap, buy twice.

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    • #3
      Re: Help with Water supply

      Originally posted by gear junkie View Post
      The two are different materials so don't use a standard coupling. You can use a sharkbite http://www.cashacme.com/sbpush.php Although it says it's rated for use behind enclosed walls and underground, it's still new technology so give some forthought where you will install it.
      A Sharkbite might not necessarily work. If the PVC he is connecting to is SCH 40, the O.D. will be too large for a Sharkbite. He will have to transition using male/female fittings.

      Bruce

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      • #4
        Re: Help with Water supply

        For bonding A.B.S. to P.V.C. they make a glue that is required in our area.

        Don't they have something similar to do pvc to cpvc.I have no Idea about how to work with this stuff.I haven't even worked with pex.

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        • #5
          Re: Help with Water supply

          Originally posted by willy1094 View Post
          I am going to be helping the inlaws with a bathroom. The supply lines they have now are white (I assume pvc) that was put in around '75. I was planning on using cpvc on the new work and was going to just tie it into the pvc. I have not worked with the two of them togeter. How do I make those connections. If I had the time (they live over 350 miles away) I would just run all new pipe.
          Thanks for the help.

          I'm new to this forum so if I posted an old question or in the wrong area please forgive me and point me in the right direction.
          i doubt it's pvc. pvc was never rated for hot water. if it's original, then it's too old for pex. the material should have an i.d. on it. read what it is and if it's pvc, replace it all. pex is fine. cpvc is also fine.

          sharkbite fittings don't work on pvc. they do work on pex, copper, cpvc. all having the same o.d.

          rick.
          phoebe it is

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          • #6
            Re: Help with Water supply

            use a PVC female threaded coupler and a "brass to cpvc" male coupler. Do not go the cheap way and use a CPVC female threaded coupler as the CPVC coupler will crack or burst if tightened to tight.

            I myself would not use sharkbite or propress stuff behind a wall where I cant baby-sit the fittings as they will leak someday. You just cant beat the good old threaded plastic or iron pipe in my book
            Last edited by All Clear Sewer; 10-02-2007, 02:24 PM.
            http://www.all-clear-sewer.com/

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            • #7
              Re: Help with Water supply

              Originally posted by brucestorey View Post
              A Sharkbite might not necessarily work. If the PVC he is connecting to is SCH 40, the O.D. will be too large for a Sharkbite. He will have to transition using male/female fittings.

              Bruce
              Thanks for the correction, I don't know what I was thinking.
              Buy cheap, buy twice.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Help with Water supply

                Originally posted by All Clear Sewer View Post
                use a PVC female threaded coupler and a "brass to cpvc" male coupler. Do not go the cheap way and use a CPVC female threaded coupler as the CPVC coupler will crack or burst if tightened to tight.

                I myself would not use sharkbite or propress stuff behind a wall where I cant baby-sit the fittings as they will leak someday. You just cant beat the good old threaded plastic or iron pipe in my book
                Abso-freaking-luely 100% agreed, exactly what I was gonna say.
                Had occasion to try the regular cpvc adapters, "guy" at the plumbing supply had no brass ones left, said "these should be fine".
                My tools were packed, truck running and I had the idea to double check them before I drove off.
                Good thing I'd isolated the repiped portion with valves, woulda been a looong night.

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                • #9
                  Re: Help with Water supply

                  Thank you all for the great suggestions!!!! I will attempt the threaded transition as this would not involve replacing the entire run. I knew pvc was not rated for hot water and that's what has got me wondering if it's not something else. I only had a quick chance to even look at it under a very tight crawl space and the pipe is white. I can only assume at this point that it was incorrectly installed with pvc. This is going to have to be a weekend job for now since this is their only bathroom. What I would like to find is pvc fitting to brass female and cpvc fitting to brass male. I can let you know if you are interested. THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!

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                  • #10
                    Re: Help with Water supply

                    While PVC is not rated for hot water, it has been used extensively in North and South Carolina for hot and cold potable water systems. I only know this because living in Virginia, I have vacationed many times in these other states and being the nosey person that I am, I always check-out plumbing wherever I am. Every beach house I ever went to was piped with SCH 40 PVC in the crawl space/beneath-deck areas and other areas that are directly exposed to the salt air. Somewhere along the line, transitions were made to copper in the concealed areas so normal compression stops can be used. I never really thought about it being sub-standard until Rick's post above, but he's right.

                    Bruce

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