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For vertical visible applications only, prep your joint normally and then draw a line an 1/8" under the joint with a med carpenter pencil. The solder will stop at the pencil line. I also don't use sandpaper anymore. Get a scotchbrite pad (grey or med) in the paint section of hd. Last forever and does a better job. Shines the joint after you wipe the excess flux with a rag.
I'm still on the same one after an estimated 150- 1" joints. I still use a wire brush in a drill for the inside. Only use slow speed for this one. It'll heat the fitting up.
Somebody tried that pencil trick on my job.I wasn't watching him but he said it did not work.Did he not get enough lead on it Ben?
Maybe not. You do need a good pencil line and all the line does is provide surface tension. This won't make up for excess solder.
So this almost sounds like the same principal of wiping the fitting of excess flux thereby contaminating the pipe so solder does not stick?On the occasion I take the extra time to prewipe I've noticed that the solder displaces the flux in the fitting out and down the pipe causing another runner unless it's wiped again.For me most of the time it's torch control to be productive getting a bunch of fittings installed.
Sounds like the pencil guy smothered the fitting in solder.I'm going to try the pencil myself now.May come in handy in a tight spot.
I'm going to introduce you to this guy at the Round-Up Ben.Don't forget to remind me when we're there.
Any more is asking for theft. The other factor with the pro-press is the cost of the tool. Then after talking it over we kinda decided that we've been repairing and soldering copper for years without too many incidents so why spend the cash. We bought another Ridgid 300 instead.
After pricing the tools at Granite, small diameter for 2200, larger for 3500..I'm putting my money on a new threader too, maybe the 700.