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  • Sloan Flush Valve Problem

    1
    Last edited by BobsPlumbing; 03-10-2010, 05:51 PM.

  • #2
    Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

    Been there, done that.

    What I usually find is pitting on the brass Sloan valve. I buff it down with sandpaper by placing the sandpaper on a flat surface then moving the valve on the paper. I use three different grades of paper depending on the corrosion.

    Secondly, I clean the vacuum breaker tube with "the works" and buff with scotch brite. Replace the tube if it is very bad.

    Hope this helps friend.
    Anyone can tear a man down, few can build one up.

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    • #3
      Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

      Everything you ever wanted to know about Sloan Valves

      www.sloanvalve.com
      sigpic

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      • #4
        Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

        I know this is a basic, but make sure the pinhole in the diaphram is clear.

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        • #5
          Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

          I bet you know this, but I find that fibre washer/friction ring needs to be there or I can't get the them to seal. Also I had one that gave me fits until I found the hairline crack in the vacuum breaker tube.
          This is my reminder to myself that no good will ever come from discussing politics or religion with anyone, ever.

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          • #6
            Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

            Flip the valve body upside down. You will now be looking at the part of the valve body that seats on the vacuum breaker/fiber washer. You will most likely see the chrome plating chipped off or pitting with brass showing.

            I made that my signature line when I told one of our customers some bad news about needing a new pop-up assembly. She just about cried. I think after 5 years of plumbing, plumbers should be given a honorary degree in counseling.
            Anyone can tear a man down, few can build one up.

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            • #7
              Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

              Zurn makes a vacuum breaker replacement that doesn't need that fibre washer.

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              • #8
                Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

                I don't proclaim to be an expert on flushometers but I had this problem once on a urinal. As it was explained to me "the urinal is not passing water fast enough and as the valve stops allowing water through, it backs up out the vacumm breaker". I replaced the urinal using the same valve and VB, no problems.
                Brent

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                • #9
                  Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

                  I got a bunch of these assemblies and I don't think you can make a whole lot selling them on ebay.

                  I have rebuild kits, none of the electronic eye stuff though.
                  Northern Kentucky Plumbers Twitter Feed | Plumbing Videos

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                  • #10
                    Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

                    Make sure the urinal is clean and running properly. Remove tail piece and acid bath urinal. I also would replace the entire tailpiece assembly.
                    THE GLASS IS ALWAYS HALF FULL

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                    • #11
                      Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

                      It's been 18 hours already!!!

                      What's the deal?

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                      • #12
                        Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

                        Originally posted by Tyman View Post
                        I made that my signature line when I told one of our customers some bad news about needing a new pop-up assembly. She just about cried. I think after 5 years of plumbing, plumbers should be given a honorary degree in counseling.
                        I hate that when people freak out about minor repairs. I have sympathy for someone when I tell them they need a new sewer-line and it will cost $3000 or whatever, thats a huge unexpected expense.
                        But I don't have any sympathy to homeowners whe freak out about replacing a pop-up assembly or whatever.
                        If someone calls me and freaks out about a minor repair of $300 or less, then I don't want them as a customer.
                        Water Heater Reviews & Water Heater Information

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                        • #13
                          Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

                          Usually when ever I come across a Sloan valve problem , I usually just replace the entire valve assembly if they are old or worn looking. Unless they are the more expensive motion sensor type of course. Toto makes a very good piston style valve, wholesale it cost under 80 dollars . I have never been called back on one of these units. Some of them have been in service for three or four years now. Toto also has a self charging motion sensor type , never requires batteries . I have noticed the chrome and fit are much nicer to. Although if you ever put one in just remember they are not compatible with the Sloan screw on handle motion sensor.
                          Last edited by Crappy days; 02-28-2008, 07:42 PM.
                          THE GLASS IS ALWAYS HALF FULL

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                          • #14
                            Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

                            Hi, I have a Zurn Z6000 Aquaflush and it has exactly the same problem. It only leaks as the flush is ending and it stops leaking after the flush is completed.

                            Should I start by replacing the vacuum breaker?

                            How do I disassemble by first unscrewing the spud coupling, followed by the coupling at the vacuum breaker? I assume I dont need to unscrew the tailpipe coupling, right?

                            Thanks for any tips!
                            Dennis

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                            • #15
                              Re: Sloan Flush Valve Problem

                              Originally posted by dchou4u View Post
                              Hi, I have a Zurn Z6000 Aquaflush and it has exactly the same problem. It only leaks as the flush is ending and it stops leaking after the flush is completed.

                              Should I start by replacing the vacuum breaker?

                              How do I disassemble by first unscrewing the spud coupling, followed by the coupling at the vacuum breaker? I assume I dont need to unscrew the tailpipe coupling, right?

                              Thanks for any tips!
                              Dennis

                              You need to take off the whole valve... the spud and the top most connection.

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