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  • Best Insulation for Hot water ring main

    I have a 40mm copper ring main, about a 100metres in the basement carpark of a building and need to insulate it.
    It is on unistrut and the brackets are easy to change.
    I was interested if the "armour flex" type insulation is good or if I should be chasing the fibreglass type wrapped in silver foil.
    Any advise would be welcome.

    Simon

  • #2
    Re: Best Insulation for Hot water ring main

    Compare the R value and price for both and that should give you the answer.
    Buy cheap, buy twice.

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    • #3
      Re: Best Insulation for Hot water ring main

      Ben is right about the R value .the arnor flex will be a little more cost if you get the type with the glue joint ,if you get the one with out you need to cut and glue it [ i do it this way not that hard ] .fiberglass is easy and my be better ,we dont use the foil face we use the white covered type
      Charlie

      My seek the peek fundraiser page
      http://observatory.mountwashington.o...nal&fr_id=1040


      http://www.mountwashington.org/weather/conditions.php

      new work pictures 12/09
      http://public.fotki.com/hvachawk/

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      • #4
        Re: Best Insulation for Hot water ring main

        you need to see how hot the water will be ,armor flex you need to get the high temp stuff if it is to hot or it will dry out and crack . we use fiberglass on hot hot pipes
        Charlie

        My seek the peek fundraiser page
        http://observatory.mountwashington.o...nal&fr_id=1040


        http://www.mountwashington.org/weather/conditions.php

        new work pictures 12/09
        http://public.fotki.com/hvachawk/

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Best Insulation for Hot water ring main

          If you have the room I would install the fiberglass insulation. (Assuming Owens Corning or equivalent with the white paper covering). They have fittings for turns and tees. You can make it look like someone knew what they were doing.

          With Armoflex (or Rubatex) you need to miter fittings and use adhesive to create fittings which is certainly doable with the a power miter box, but can be a pain. Also, the ArmoFlex will become brittle with age and simply break apart when you need to get at the line to make repairs. The fiberglass you can just cut open, and put it back if you don't have any fiberglass at the time of the repair.

          If there's a fire code standard for the building, you may also need to use fiberglass to meet it.

          Good luck.
          Time flies like an arrow.

          Fruit flies like a banana.

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