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MAPP gas VS propane

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  • #46
    Re: MAPP gas VS propane

    Originally posted by drtyhands View Post
    Just got in from fixing three four inch fitting leaks(existing).There were 16 four inch joints to be soldered,Two plumbers had one leak apiece,the fittings wear very loose tolerances.I've soldered plenty of large diameter pipe.The fittings are so tight sometimes we have to beat them on.I thought todays fittings going on so easy was a good sign untill I started soldering.The final product was gapped horribly.I would like to improve my capping skills.Anyone have any advice.

    Adam
    in the old days, nothing beat 50/50 for gap filling. brazing would fill the gap quite easily. plus if you could have drained the water, you could have actually brazed over the soldered joint.

    in the new days, nothing beats pro press. don't have 4-3'' 90's in stock, just 2 and couplings. a phone call to the emergency # would get he door open after hours for a few bucks.

    should have called me, we could have gone to the swap meet 1 hour late. actually 10 minutes for the 4 joints and 50 minutes for the drive the other direction

    plus i owe you 1.

    rick.
    phoebe it is

    Comment


    • #47
      Re: MAPP gas VS propane

      Originally posted by drtyhands View Post
      Just got in from fixing three four inch fitting leaks(existing).There were 16 four inch joints to be soldered,Two plumbers had one leak apiece,the fittings wear very loose tolerances.I've soldered plenty of large diameter pipe.The fittings are so tight sometimes we have to beat them on.I thought todays fittings going on so easy was a good sign untill I started soldering.The final product was gapped horribly.I would like to improve my capping skills.Anyone have any advice.

      Adam

      This brings back a horrible memory for me years ago when I was asked to fix numerous leaks at a hopper for a concrete plant. Was 2" copper pressure pipe and fittings and the fast acting solenoid valves would slowly make all valves/fittings/unions leak.

      The water could never be fully shut off so I implemented a high pressure air hose to blow back into the line while I got the new unions soldered in.

      Even taping/doping the unions....still leaked. I ended up walking away from it with probably 8 leaks still out of 30 connections in the sunken pit but the owners of the plant were tickled pink; they stated I was the first plumber to minimize the water loss that much with a repair. When the solenoid valve would engage it would hurt your ears with the vibration shocking through the system.

      That was a job years ago when I was green that I actually got concerned if I was going to close those solder joints up or not. I would certainly pass if ever presented in that situation again.
      Northern Kentucky Plumbers Twitter Feed | Plumbing Videos

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      • #48
        Re: MAPP gas VS propane

        Reminds me, I did a concrete factory once.
        3" over head water main, I told the boss we'd need seizmic restraints because of the solenoids, he told me I was wrong.

        We were back a week after they'd opened to replace half a dozen 90's on the drops and install restraints.
        The solenoids had the whole main swinging like a trapeze, the branches were clipped in place so the 90's had become hinges.

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        • #49
          Re: MAPP gas VS propane

          Originally posted by DUNBAR View Post
          When the solenoid valve would engage it would hurt your ears with the vibration shocking through the system.
          Not trying to get too off track but why not install water hammer arrestors?
          Buy cheap, buy twice.

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          • #50
            Re: MAPP gas VS propane

            Now that I've had time to talk to Gear Junkie and reading Duckbutter's previous post,I think I can pin down the problem.

            The last time I was doing three inch I was using the big propane tank hosed to the 3/4" tip.

            This time we were using the air acetyline rigs with the T-32 tips.My leak was on an existing 4" tee.I did not want to heat the entire fitting and pipe to a uniform soldering temperature because of the other two existing sockets.I think there was too much heat in one area due to the fact that I left the flame to the back of the socket till the solder started to flow.In hindsight I should have been moving the overly hot flame around more.Now I am concerned that I have a pocket of unsoldered socket with only a cap on it.If it leaks again over time there will be no damage as it's in a dammed pump room with floor drains and sinks.Besides this is a building that the contractor I'm working with has done all the work on for the past 10 years or so.So no-one else will be fixing my error.

            Thanks guys for the information to lead me to this conclussion to where hopefully this will never happen again.

            Adam

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            • #51
              Re: MAPP gas VS propane

              Adam, I looked up your torch tip and couldn't find T-32 but I found turbotorch's A-32. It says it's good for 4"-6".
              Buy cheap, buy twice.

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              • #52
                Re: MAPP gas VS propane

                Originally posted by gear junkie View Post
                Adam, I looked up your torch tip and couldn't find T-32 but I found turbotorch's A-32. It says it's good for 4"-6".
                A-32,thanks Ben

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                • #53
                  Re: MAPP gas VS propane

                  I am a mapp man, that is when I do solder. My torch has been almost repalced by my propress machine...

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                  • #54
                    Re: MAPP gas VS propane

                    Originally posted by ccouch View Post
                    I am a mapp man, that is when I do solder. My torch has been almost repalced by my propress machine...
                    another smart plumber

                    welcome to the forum

                    all you need now is a k-60 and you'll be a genius

                    rick.
                    phoebe it is

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