No announcement yet.


  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Re: Thanks

    yes and the nipples are probably factory dielectric.

    doesn't your code require unions within 12'' of the heater?

    upc. 609.5

    irc 2801.3

    phoebe it is


    • #17
      Re: Thanks

      Originally posted by ironranger View Post
      Now you get it!
      Originally posted by stolen View Post
      It's CPVC coming off the T&P.

      they don'trequire insulating the lines here since it is in a closet inside a garage, it shares the space with the heating unit, and it's not a outside wall, it's the kitchen wall. As for the expansion tank, Edmond is the stricter municipality around here, and they require hammer arrestors and a expansion ball valve, if I remember right. Not many places here require a expansion tank anymore. And thanks for spotting the missing strap on the T&P, but that hose clamp isn't just lightly on there, it is tightened down. There is no way it could come loose in the event that the valve opened, unless it softens the CPVC to the point that it slips out, but that is pretty far fetched. And if I would have thought about it, I would have coppere'd the T&P line as well! Thanks for reminding me! will do it next time. Maybe swet it so my torch doesn't think I am a total traitor!

      As for piping it directly to the drain, I persoanlly don't agree with it, but there again, not going to argue with the inspectors that pvc is not rated for the temperature that the water would be if the tp valve opened due to high temperature. I think it should at least go to the pan, or outside, but they will fail it if in the pan in some areas here.

      As for raising the water heater, it's weird here. Tulsa let you put the closed chamber gas heaters on the ground, but still made you raise the electric ones, some of the surrounding areas around Tulsa, would still make you raise them. but OKC where that heater was installed still makes you raise every water heater in the garage.

      As for the ball valve, yes maybe a little too much piping and time and what not, but that one is MUCH more accessible to anyone that needs to shut the tank off. the homeowner is 80ish so I was keeping her in mind. The only "extra" fitting is on the hot line, the coupling, made a press too soon and had to rotate the T.

      And yes, I primer everything, I am just not a slob about it. Probably just can't see it thanks to the lighting and camera. the wye and 45 is both 2 inch. And the way I put the hammer arrestors in is so that in case the ball valve gets closed, the cold side is still prrotected from hammer. Because if the valve is closed, no water to the hot system, and having 2 arrestors on a closed system is, useless. Thus, putting it on the live side of the ball valve. And even when closed, the hot side is still protected from, whatever hammer issue there may be, or expansion that would be caused, but it's also then protected by the tp valve.

      Not here. But here they make up code as they go and when you call them to ask a question they refer you to the code they dont follow. Its a F'n coin flip. -quote

      And this wasn't in response to your thread, just saying thanks to guys like yourself, Rick, JC, and the many others that have made me want to do installs like that, then have the balls to post pictures and let you guys tee off on me!

      Hey, who deleted all the fun stuff in between?


      • #18
        Re: Thanks

        We are under the 09 ipc, I believe. Have to check tomorrow, the states website says we are under ipc 2000, but I remember the chief inspector at my cont. education class saying we had adopted the 09.

        But they aren't there. No denying that. I need to brush up on my code.


        • #19
          Re: Thanks

          Originally posted by stolen View Post
          Look closer, the press fip are brass

          All of my water heater installations are done exactly like you pictured for the waters. 3/4" fipxPP Viega ProPress fitting and all are hard piped. Looks very professional and clean. I do install copper for my t&p lines and use a male PP brass adapter into the t&p. No stands here because they're not in any garages, too cold. And no earth quake strapping at all.
          Flex water heater connectors like I used to use out west just don't work here. Just asking for a recall. The temperature fluctuations in the water are incredible and they end up getting loose and leak. It's not just my opinion, Nobody around here uses them for that reason.


          • #20
            Re: Thanks

            The Female adapters are a yellow brass, not as good as a red brass fitting for connecting dissimilar metals. The way I do it to meet my code is I put on a pair of IPS red brass unions, then a ProPress male adapter. So now I meet the code for the proper brass transition fittings for dissimilar metals, and unions on the heater. As for the discharge of the T&P valve we are required to pipe it with copper of galvanized pipe. No plastic of any sort. But thats just the code I have to follow. Otherwise your install looks good.
            Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
            Ron's Facebook
            A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
            Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
            Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing


            • #21
              Re: Thanks

              No unions required here. I suppose they figure copper or plastic is easy enough to cut when replacing the heater.
              Time flies like an arrow.

              Fruit flies like a banana.