If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You will be required to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
MAINTENANCE NOTICE: The site will be down for maintenance on Sunday, 14 Feb 2015, between 9:30AM and 11:30AM Eastern. We apologize for any inconvenience!
Re: Shower/tub refinishing in Orange County, CA????
I did it a couple years back because I could not find anyone that (1) knew how to do it correctly and (2) was affordable. I was getting price quotes from $200.00 to $2500.00.
It's not that hard to do, just time consuming. Great experience if you like to learn stuff. Here are the basic steps and items you need to do it.
Note: I did this with a Fiberglass shower system. Not a Porcelain tub. It takes roughly three days to accomplish this project, so plan accordingly.
(1) a compressor that can move enough air for a HVLP spray gun. (hvlp) High Velocity low pressure.
(2) HVLP spray gun. - You can pick one of these up at Harbor Freight, (orange, or garden grove) for around less then $50.00.
(3) A cheap floor fan. (explain that in a minute)
(4) a couple of rolls of blue painters tape, 2" works the best.
(5) a couple rolls of 3mil or heavy painters plastic
(6) orbital palm sander, if you have one. (again cheap thing at Harbor Freight)
(7) various sand paper in the 200-400 grit range for the palm sander.
(8) Two part shower glaze. You get this at Sherman Williams. I think the only SW that you can get this at now is the main industrial location in BP or GG. (not sure the city) Also the cool thing is you can have them tint it at the store to any color you want.
(9) a high end cartridge style breathing mask. This is the one item you don't skimp on and get extra filters designed to handle high vocs. Your going to need it. You can get this at Sherman Williams.
(10) cheap painters jump suit, and a head sock. (home depot)
(11) also the solvents necessary to clean your gun when your done.
(12) a hepa furnace filter any size. (HD) -(explain that in a minute)
(13) a bunch of collapsed cardboard shipping boxes, enough to make a box for the hepa furnace filter, and the fan intake, outlet. see below, (you can get these at HD for a couple of bucks.
(14) box of nitrile surgical gloves. (harbor freight - couple of bucks)
(15) roll of duct tape.
(16) box of expandable dryer vent. (see below)
(17) box of shoe painter booties.
OK, How it done.
(1) remove all your shower hardware, doors, fixtures, everything.
(2) scrub the shower down with a heavy duty shower cleaner. You need to remove any soap residue, oils etc...
(3) Scrub it down with TSP.
(4) sand it down
(5) wash it down with TSP again, and then run a tack cloth on it.
(6) vacuum you floor, walls etc... Use a good shop vac. with a hepa filter.
(7) bag the bathroom with plastic. Everything, ceiling, floor walls. The only thing that can be exposed is the shower. Make sure that he entry/exit point is very well overlapped.
(8) Ventilating the work area. (the most important part to this job) This is where I separated the idiots from the nut jobs when I got quotes on this, before I opted to do it myself. I've painted enough hot rods in my life to know that this is the most critical point to the finished result.
If your bathroom has a window this is the point your going to need to place your cheap floor fan. Remember to remove your screen and bag the window frame. If your bathroom does not have a window your going to use the dryer vent hose and run it to a window. Your fan will need to be cardboard boxed in such a manner as to push the air into the exhaust vent, and allow a boxed inlet area where you can tape your painters plastic around it so it won't get sucked into the fan.
Your going to be spraying a highly toxic mixture that will fog up the room your in, in a matter of seconds, even with a HVLP gun. You need to extract the air out of the room quickly and at the same time allow air to come in. That's what the HEPA furnace filter is for. You build a cardboard box that you can tape the HEPA filter to one end. This becomes your make up vent. You use a HEPA filter because its going to stop any dust from the room where your drawing the air to contaminate your work surface once you start spraying.
Once you have everything ready, your paint mixed and ready to shoot, your dressed in your Ghost Buster Outfit, etc... You've tested your ventilation system, etc... Before you start spraying. You need to take a minute and run your tack cloth with some solvent over the shower to make sure there is no residual dust on the surface. This will show up when the glaze is cured.
Now your ready to spray. Hopefully you did a pre-test outside to make sure you can use a HVLP sprayer. You shoot one coat in the morning. Wait several hours and then go in and shoot your second coat. Your done. You let the product set up for twenty four hours before you attempt to clean out the bagged room.
As you can see there is a reason why, if done properly this can cost in the realm of $2,000.00.
The last one I did was few years back on a CONDO we were selling. Had we lived in it I would have ripped it out and did a custom build out on the shower. Would have cost about the same as having someone come in a spray it.
All in all, because I had all the equipment, the project, (minus time) ran me about $150.00 in material.
PM me if you have any other questions I'm located in OC.
I have 2 customers that had different Cos.
Both peeled! I wouldn't do it !
We used to use a family owned company that went out of biz (family health issues). They did our home and rental prop with no peeling issues ever. Their work was good and the glazing lasted 5 years minimum. Bummer your Customers had bad experiences, but there are good folks out there that do good lasting work, I just need to find them......