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  • plumbing books

    Short of going to school and taking courses, where can I find plumbing books? I'm not talking about these DIY plumbing books that you find at Home Depot.

  • #2
    Search the online book sellers (Amazon, Barnes & Noble, etc) and visit some manufacturer websites and see what material they have available for download.
    "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006


    • #3
      there are technical book stores that carry these types of books. also an illistrated code book is an excellant resource.

      phoebe it is


      • #4
        I looked at you profile, and you list yourself as "Left Coast", which I assume means the west coast (with possible political overtones). Regardless, are you working in a UPC area? If so I have some specific suggestions. If not, I may still have some suggestions. Please specify.
        the dog


        • #5
          I'm in California. Left Coast simply refers to west. I'm in the UPC area. What is the title of the code book with the illustrations or any other recommended books?


          • #6
            I would suggest the following:

            1) The 2000 Uniform Plumbing Code Training Manual.
            This is the UPC explained with illustrations. It does not include the California ammendments to the code, but if you are learning, it probably won't matter. Just a suggestion, but before you break down on this copy, it may not be long before another is accepted, it's about due.

            2) The Plumber's Handbook, Revised Edition. By Howard C. Massey. Published by Craftsman Books.

            Don't learn California codes from this book, but you can learn alot about basic plumbing.

            3) IPT's Pipe Trades Handbook. By Robert E. Lee. Published by IPT.

            Not a plumbing book at all, but a pipefitting book. It is small, but thick, and invaluable to plumbers. I never realized it untill I left plumbing for pipefitting. After returning to plumbing I would never be without it. It outlines ever formula you need to run piping and more.

            4) Down-load Tyler Pipes catalog of soil pipe fittings. They used to give these away for free in the supply houses, today it is only available over the internet.
            the dog


            • #7
              The Dog wrote: "Down-load Tyler Pipes catalog of soil pipe fittings. They used to give these away for free in the supply houses, today it is only available over the internet."

              Wow, I didn't realize that these were no longer available in print, I tossed about 6 copies last month when cleaning out a bunch of junk in the garage

              Had I known I would have passed them off to someone who wanted one.

              You can go to the Charlotte Pipe & Foundry website and request a copy of their catalog, I don't remember if they have a pocket sized field book or not.

              Wait, just checked it out, you can still order them, go here:

              Oh, and Tyler, part of McWane, is one of the biggest offenders of OSHA safety regs in the country.

              frontline: a dangerous business: the mcwane story | PBS

              and from OSHA's site:
              2003 - 09/05/2003 - Company Agrees to $103,500 Penalty for 24 Health, Safety Violations, OSHA Announces
              2003 - 09/05/2003 - Numerous Safety Hazards Lead to $181,400 in OSHA Fines for Elmira, N.Y., Manufacturing Facility

              Plenty more where that came from;
              Last edited by Bob D.; 01-24-2006, 07:45 AM.
              "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006



              • #8
                That's excellent info! Soil pipe, DWV and testing methods are what I need to hone up on. Especially testing dwv when adding/changing the configuration since I'm getting more calls to make repairs or changes to them recently. I want to make sure it's done correctly. Thanks!


                • #9
                  Plumb Crazy Purple,

                  The UPC requires one of the following:

                  1) Plug off the system and fill it with water to a point 10' above the highest joint.

                  2) Plug off the system and fill it with 5psi of air.

                  That said, in practice most (but not all) will allow a running test (put a hose in the drain in question and let it run) on minor alterations like you described above. Keep in mind that I said "some, not all". I'm also talking about alterations where you added a few fittings.

                  If I don't know the inspector I place a wye before the new fitting, and plug it. If this is not an alternative, call your inspector (most have office hours between 7:00 & 8:00 AM) and ask him. Tell him the situation. You would be suprised how responsive most inspectors are to your situatuation.
                  the dog


                  • #10
                    Plumbdog, thanks for your advice. I plug and fill the system with water whenever I can. It's just recently that I've been altering pipe within a multi story building that I can not risk water from spewing out the pipe when I deflate the plug. I'll try the air method next time on the DWV. How long for the 5 PSI to hold before passing on DWV? For Gas line testing, depending on the county and inspector, I've had them tell me 15 PSI for ten minutes, 10 PSI for 15 minutes and 30 PSI for ten minutes. I've never done an air pressure test on DWV. I at least run water through the line to make sure there are no leaks.


                    • #11
                      plumbcrazy, a word of advice on an air test for dwv. on a small system no problem. on a 200 unit apt. building 6 stories, good luck. sounds simple until you need to locate a leak. dripping water easy to locate. dripping air, good luck.

                      can't say it can't be done, but at a certain point it's a drag. remember a large system will take a long time o show a pressure drop on a small leak. sort of like a nail in a wheel barrow tire and a nail in a big truck tire. the wheel barrow will go flat real fast. the truck real slow.

                      phoebe it is


                      • #12
                        I couldn't agree more Rick. I myself rarly use an air test, I was just giving him the legal options.
                        the dog


                        • #13
                          The other concern is the danger is pumping all the potential energy (air pressure) into the piping system. for materials that can shatter or crack, this is not a good idea (brittle materials like Cast Iron, PVC, etc), because if you have ever seen a PVC pipe blow up with 15 or 20 PSI of air in it, you wouldn't want to be anywhere near it. Unless you clear the building of all personnel, you never know who could be in the wrong place at the right time.

                          I remember doing an air test on a large hotel complex some years ago. We did it in sections of course but still we were pumping up a couple thousand feet of copper up to 4" diameter at a time. The high rise hotel tower sections were done three floors at a time (32 hotel rooms per floor IIRC).

                          We used a large compressor like you would need to power a couple jack hammers, don't remember the size but it was powered by a 6 cyc engine. It would take about 20 minutes to get to 30 PSI using 1" hose, then we would hold that for a while (drop test) and go hunt down any leaks; this was our internal test before presenting to the inspector. We were looking for leaks, marking any that we found, then go back and fix them.

                          With a work force of roughly 120 plumbers and fitters on the job, and people coming and going over the duration of the job, it was important to monitor the quality of the work. Ya know, some guy gets ticked off because he didn't get to work OT and someone else did, or they are getting laid off the end of the week, so they 'get back' at the contractor by 'fixing' a few things for them before they leave (yeah, believe it or not it happens ) , or someone just plain forgets to solder a joint or its in a tight spot and they leave a pinhole or you've got a bad fitting (it happens even with copper fittings, though rare).

                          Any one of these can do expensive damage if the system is not checked before putting water in it. Once we got a good drop test with air we would go back and do a water test for the inspector.
                          "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006