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Ridgid #85967 sep -500 1/2 hp residential sewage pump

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  • Ridgid #85967 sep -500 1/2 hp residential sewage pump

    This summer I purchased a home that has a bathroom in the basement. It uses the Ridgid #85967 sep -500 1/2 hp residential sewage pump. In October this pump failed, thus I purchased the same pump and had it installed. Everything was working correctly until tonight. The shower in the basement was being used, and from what I understand they heard the pump eject the water out to the septic field....but now it won't shutoff...it just keeps humming. It didn't overflow (which is GOOD!), it just won't shutoff and continues to hum. I unplugged it for 15 minutes to no avail, I disconnected the float section and just plugged the pump in...and it still hums. What is it's problem? It's basically doing the same thing the last one is doing. I was told the impellar in the old one wasn't turning. This pump being 3 months old shouldn't be dead yet? Should it? We didn't have any power surge, the power didn't go off, and the home at 200 amp service so there should be plenty. What could cause it? ...and how to remedy it? I shouldn't have to replace the pump every 3 months should I?

  • #2
    Check your switch one more time,if nothing but humming is going on it might be done. is it moving any water . if it is than your switch is stuck open, i would check th impeller to make sure it is not obstructed with any foreign objects.then i would take it back and kindly ask for a new one.and if the new one should fail before the year is up,i would try a zoller pump.
    A fishing pole is the best cordless tool!

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    • #3
      Ridgid #85967 sep -500 1/2 hp residential sewage pump

      It doesn't seem to be moving any water, because usually you hear this build up of sound when the pump turns on and the surge of water get ejected out to the septic field. Whenever it's finished, it shuts off until it needs to be ejected again. Plus it doesn't appear to be water in the holding tank, so it must of ejected prior to the humming. Wonder if it took parts of the pump out with it.

      Will have to try removing the pump and seeing what's happening underneath, not sure if the impellar is caught up or what...maybe it's another faulty pump. This really isn't the kind of pump one wants to have quitting on them. I'm sure home depot would love to get a returned used sewage pump. Thanks for the reply.

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      • #4
        sounds like your float switch is hung up on something. remove the pit cover and check the float. it should move freely up and down. i believe that uses a teather type float. it's a cord that pivots and allows the float to go in an arc. these type of floats are prone to hanging up if not properly adjusted.

        a zoller m257 is a very good pump and has a built in float switch. very little problems with type of pump. it sells at the supply house for approx. $240.

        rick.
        phoebe it is

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        • #5
          Ridgid sewage pump

          We removed the pit cover and the float was not caught on anything. We took the pump out and placed it outside and found that the impeller spun. Thus we figured the float switch was bad since we did not replace it when the other pump died. We took the float that came with the new pump and installed it. The pit was empty so we ran water to fill it, the float raised and the pump came on and ejected the water but the pump wouldn't shut off. We hit the float with a stick to get it to shutoff. Then filled the tank back up, and this time the float rose but did not turn the pump on until we hit the float with a stick. The float at this time was completely vertical, and the system pumped out. We then had to hit the float again to get it to shutoff. There wasn't anything obstructing the float. I'm not sure if this would have any effect on the situation but the new float was outside in the shed, (it's winter here in Maine) and was inside for about a few hours to warm up. Not sure if the cold weather could cause whatever is in the float to screw up. The old float that we replaced rose to the top and the water ejected because there was hardly any water in the tank...but even then the pump wouldn't shut off. Is the pump the problem?

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          • #6
            once again not a big fan of these types of float switches. the only time i use them is on a pump controll panel with 2 pumps, an off, lead, lag, high water level. otherwise on a single pump, i use the built in float on a metal rod switch arm. ie: zoller m257.

            rick.
            phoebe it is

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            • #7
              rigid sewer pump

              I was told it's probably the switch on the new pump that is acting up and I need to return the pump for servicing. The pump that died earlier is out for repair so I'm waiting on that one to return since I really don't want to go out and buy a 3rd (probably non-working) pump. I'm lucky that way!

              My question is....When you plug the new pump in---the pump runs constantly/hums. For a temporary fix until the replacement pump comes back, will the pump still pump stuff out if you disconnect the float (from the piggyback outlet) since the float tells the pump to turn on and off? The pump is already running. Then just plug the pump into the outlet? I know these pumps aren't meant to run constantly, and with some water in the box it takes a few flushes to get to the point it needs to eject. Thus can you flush a couple times then plug the pump in? Will it eject??? Then after it ejects---unplug it? Or am I just looking for trouble?

              I kinda like the idea of an all in one pump/float like the zoeller pump. Probably should of looked here before I bought my other pump. As I said this isn't the type of pump you want to keep dying!

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              • #8
                that's exactly how you can tell what and where the problem is. if you disconnect the float piggyback cord and plug the pump in direct. it should work properly. just make sure you unplug it asap when you hear it sucking air. this is fine as long as you're there to turn it on and off as needed. kind of tuff in the middle of a shower. a piggyback switch is not more than $30. for a 20' cord. i would just buy a new one and have it on hand. much faster than waiting for a repair. grainger carries these in stock.

                rick.
                phoebe it is

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                • #9
                  1/2 hp residential sewage pump

                  Thank-you for answering my question, I appreciate it greatly. I thought that might work...but I wanted to make sure. I'll look on the grainger website for that part, especially if the above works. I was only planning on using that one for toilet flushes now, since a shower contains too much water and needs to be pumped out more frequently. I have another full bath upstairs so I'm not without a tub/shower. Home ownership is FUN!

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