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  • Milwaukee Hole Drills

    Here's a Milwaukee "shoot-out" question for you:

    Miluwaukee super-hawg - 2 speeds 450/1750 RPM (13 amps - Model #1680-20 or 21) versus Milwaukee traditional hole-hawg - 2 speeds 300/1200 RPM(7.5 amps - Model#1676-6 or 1675-6) versus Milwaukee Right Angle Drill - 2 speeds - 400/900 RPM's (7 amps - Model #3002-1).

    I'm interesting in your opinion of all of these drills. I've never used a Super-hawg before. I'm particularly interested in your opinion of the hole-hawg (tradtional) versus the Right Angle drill. I've used a hole-hawg before, although not lately, and a right angle drill before, but again not lately, but felt the MIlwaukee right angle drill had more than enough balls to turn the big bits descent enough to get the job done.

  • #2
    When you refer to a right angle drill do you mean a D handle drill with RA head such as the 3107? Each tool will do some jobs well but not everything. The SuperHawg is a monster for drilling holes fast. I really don't understand the fast higher speed with such a tool. I would think they would have done it more like 300-400 RPM for low and 600-800 RPM for high. Actually I would have just done it as a single speed slow turner for huge hole sizes. I can see it now where someone is driving a 2-9/16 self feed bit in high gear only to end up burning up both the wood and bit. The origional HoleHawg can really drill holes, but my guess it that contractors want to make big holes ultra fast so Milwaukee came up with the Tim Allen idea of R R R more power. I do think the longer main handle is a good idea and actually the SuperHawg being more angle grinder shaped will sometimes fit where the classic with bit inserted just won't. As for a D handle drill with RA head, they will be more than enough tool if you don't have to drill big (over 2") holes into hard wood all the time. The Hawgs do have more beefy gears but being 2 speed you got to change them only while the tool is coasting to a stop and before you pull the trigger make sure it is fully in gear or *&^%$# will happen to the tool.

    Please note that all of the above demand lots of user respect. They can bust an arm or snap a wrist real quickly. I would like for the CPSC and OSHA to demand that they have slip clutches in case of jams. I think, but am not sure that the DeWalt version of the SuperHawg may have a slip clutch. For my needs the 3107 D handle drill with RA head is more than enough tool. Please do not run it in reverse under much load as the little screw that retains the chuck is all too easy to bust off.

    Makita now makes their version of all three which get good reviews, but I would much rather a Milwaukee but only an older one made before the TTI takeover. I don't trust the brand new ones to be of the same quality as the older (like make 5 or more years ago, but that's just how I am. For the price I really don't think too much of the Ridgid 3 speed model. I like the idea behind the tool, but let's let others buy it and see how it holds up. (It might hold up, but I don't want to be the person having to buy it and then find out it doesn't) The Milwaukee Hawgs (Classic and Super) have a good track record.

    Scott, Look for a posting by another member of a magazine review of several of them. The reviewer likes the Makitas but then he didn't test out all models by Milwaukee so I think you need to look at which models were reviewed.

    I think the bottom line is what will you need to use it for and how many holes per day per size. I like the total Varible Speed of a D handle drill and you can remove the head for straight drilling. Be sure you have a thin 11/16" open end wrench if you get one by Milwaukee. You'll need it to hold the hex shank on the spindle when you remove the chuck. A valve tappet wrench (normally double ended) works well. The little junk stamped steel one Milwaukee includes is pretty sad but is a bit better than nothing.

    Idea: Check the tool rental yards as I bet some may have a SuperHawg you could try out for a day or maybe they might do a deal on 1/2 day.
    Last edited by Woussko; 11-06-2006, 04:08 AM. Reason: spelling error


    • #3
      Part 2

      I had to read Scott's posting again. Now I see he is more wanting to know how a D handle drill with RA head and the Classic HoleHawg would match up. The Classic HoleHawg is one beefy tool and would make minced meat out of the RA head on the D handle drill if you were to really work both hard drilling large holes in something like oak 4 by lumber. At one time they made a single speed version of the Classic that was about like low gear on the newer 2 speed models if I can remember right. Anyway I really see no need on that much tool having the high speed that fast. If I want to drill smaller holes I would use a lighter weight 3/8" RA drill. Let's say that I want to drill joists and drill 9/16 or 5/8 holes for romex or BX, there's just no way that I want to do that with a huge heavy drill. I would go for something like the Bosch or Makita 3/8 RA drills or what I really like is the Sioux model 8800ES which is a very compact T shaped drill with VSR control. If on the other hand I need to make lots of holes over 2" then I would use a real HoleHawg. To me the idea behind using a D handle drill with RA head is to have a tool that can do many things, and most pretty well without having your money tied up in a big RA drill such as either the Classic or Super HoleHawg. If you do need to drill lots of large holes and need a RA drill to do so, I would look long and hard at the SuperHawg and at other brands along with Milwaukee. For the money difference the SuperHawg can really drill. Please remember that ratings are for NO LOAD speeds and under load they do slow down some.

      My suggestion is to look around local tool rental yards and see what they have. If nothing more you can hold the tool for a few minutes and get some idea of it you could stand it for the time you'll be using it. None are all that heavy as long as you're standing on a good floor. I would not want to be on a ladder with one. They can really kick out if you jam the bit. If you have the room, you might like a spade handle drill such as the 1660 or if you want to have variable speed the 1663 is one nice spade handle drill. Now if you really want some serious torque and power look at a big 3/4 (chuck size) spade handle drill like the Milwaukee 1754. Now that is one tool for you. You will need loads of room for it. No drilling joists with that beast.

      You might try going to the Milwaukee web site and downloading the owner's manuals for several models you're interested in. They will give you ideas about what each model can reasonable handle. Also while there maybe downloads parts listings and exploded drawings. You'll get some idea about what's inside them.

      Special note: The 3107 and the 3002 are the same D handle drill but with gearing changes. The the 3107 runs at 5/6 speed of the 3002. Otherwise they are the same other than maybe a few little features. The 3107 comes with the nice Quik-Lok power cord. It's really a 1107 drill and they just add the RA head and case. The old steel cases were nicer in design but they are kind of heavy.

      If anyone wants a nice smaller RA drill you might want to look at the SIOUX "T" shaped drill, the model 8800ES and also their "Close Quarters" drills. Sioux was making the Close Quarters drills for Milwaukee under contract, but with TTI taking over Milwaukee that either will soon end or already has ended. Be careful of copies as some are real junk. Bosch and Makita both have several nice compact RA drills, but please keep away from the 3/8" DeWalt or you'll be very upset you bought it. It is one real PITA tool for the user.

      Here is a link where you can view and/or download the Sioux catalog as a .PDF file
      There are copies of it made by money hungry companies and they are real junk. Sioux is mostly into air powered tools and they have some pretty wild stuff in their catalog. Take a look.
      Last edited by Woussko; 11-06-2006, 04:46 AM.


      • #4
        I have a number of Milwaukee (pre TTI) drills and they are all great.
        I have never used the Hole Hawg® for anything other than with a metal cutting hole saw as part of a Victaulic Hole Cutting Tool for Vic fittings. where the hole cutting tool is clamped to the pipe. For that it works great and has awesome power and torque. I can't imagine trying to use one of those free hand. If it fetched up you'd be spinning round like crazy. You'd have to be as big as Arnold (the Governator) to hold that puppy back I think.
        Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
        “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
        "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"


        • #5
          Well the reason I ask, is the journeyman I work under and I had a little debate the other day. He thinks the hole-hawg would make mince meat out of the RA Drill I described above, but I beg to differ. The RA Drill I used I"d say would be good to about 3 1/8" self feed before getting bogged down. If you're going througn multiple studs then 2 9/16's is about as much as I would want to use although it would pull through without issue.

          I think the reason for the faster low & high speeds on the Super Hawg is because it does have 13 amps compared to the 7.5 amp normal hole-hawg, and hence it probably has as much or more torque at 450 RPM's as the 7.5 amp hole hawg does turning 300 RPM's.

          I'm a big fan of the RA drill because of the ability for it to get into tight spaces. In fact I'd love to see Milwaukee or Lenox develop shorter length Self feed drill bits for helping fight into even tighter places. Also, I could be wrong, but doesn't the SuperHawg have a shorter/smaller profile than the RA drill as far as fitting between studs?


          • #6
            Scott K kere is a link to a great aritcle done by tools of the trade-go to :
            You can never have enough drills-too many is just enough!!!!!


            • #7
              A good RA drill such as the Milwaukee 3107 is no toy, but the HoleHawg and even more so the SuperHawg both have more real power and much tuffer gearing. The RA drill (Milw 3107) has variable speed and thus much better control. Where people get in trouble is if you try to put the drill in reverse to force out a stuck bit. The screw which holds on the chuck can and so bust. Normally a good repair shop can drill and extract it. It is busts in the RA head parts can be replaced or really it's wise to have an extra RA head for just in case *&^%$ happens. The SuperHawg would make minced meat out of the ClassicHawg when it comes to raw power and drilling speed. To have high gear as fast as it is for that beast seems silly. You must run large bits slow or you'll burn them up and also burn the wood you're drilling into. My thinking is that the high speed is for just in case you want to drill smaller holes for Romex and don't happen to have a nice little RA drill around. The design of the SuperHawg is more like a big angle grinder. What I dream about is the day that Milwaukee makes a mini version of the SuperHawg. I bet they would really sell like crazy. Mini being about 2/3 size in the same design and leave it geared down in low speed.

              Look at the web site for IRWIN as they have loads of different drill bits along with other tools. Also check out what DeWalt offers. Someone has to make shorter self-feed bits. Good luck finding them.

              The D Handle drill with RA head will fit places that neither Hawg can. I think you really want to see both the Classic and the Super Hawgs in person. Hold them in your hands. They get heavy pretty fast.

              The link posted by Akita is good reading, but remember they didn't test all models by all brands. Shop with care and you'll find lots of good choices. Remember that if price is an issue to check around for a good "Factory Reconditioned" tool which is many cases is a new tool someone returned or a display tool. has good deals on them by Milwaukee. If you call, they sometimes have more choices than posted. They are a repair shop as well.


              • #8

                This should really help. What is the tuffest drilling job you expect out of the RA drill? Size and type of bit and what are you drilling through. How many of that size hole per day? A good D Handle with RA head can do some hard work as long as you don't expect it to blast holes though oak real fast. The VS trigger control on the 3107 and the removable power cord are super nice to have. You won't go wrong with one unless you need to drill big holes through oak and lots of them. Run at about 1/2 speed with the RA head setup for slow speed it can drive big self-fed bits. Just don't force it to do what a SuperHawg can do. Lots has to do with who owns the tool and how much TLC you are willing to give it. If I had the $, my choices would be a smaller 3/8 VSR true RA drill and a SuperHawg. Now I would be all set. Then for non RA drilling a good VSR 1/2 pistol grip drill like the much loved Milwaukee 0234 and if ever needed then add the RA head and the special nice side handle to it. I really can't see the need for such having both the little RA dill and the SuperHawg. Bosch and Makita make some nice 3/8 RA drills and sometimes you can find a recond Makita older style for under $100. The duck shape drills are cute and nice but that big blob styling requires on big hand to really hold it. Also check for a good deal on the Craftsman Mini T which is the same as a Sioux 3/8 T shape drill. Sioux makes it under contract for Sears.

                I need to stop with this and wish you good luck. Try to find all the tools you think might work for you and go hold them. If you can, also try them out actually working the tool. Check tool rental yards. If not to rent, to see and hold.