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  • Yet another Ridgid TS3650 Arbor/Dado question

    For those of you both familiar with the arbor issue and this reoccuring discusison, my sincere apology up front for bringing it up again.

    BUT, since (1) I am somewhat new to woodworking, (2) I have read the previous posts... all 999,204 of them AND (3) I still don't know the answer, I am going to ask your indulgence and fire away since it is a safety issue.

    I have a 2 yr old Ridgid TS3650 which SHOULD have the longer/OK arbor. But I just tried to put on a 3/4" dado stack (yes.. Frued, but not the dial-a-dado kind) and I could only get 3/4 of a turn on the arbor nut.

    TWO questions:

    1) is that to be expected (ie you can't put a stack that thick on

    2) is it ok to remove the flange (if that is the right name for the wichimijigi between the arbor nut and the blade) and just have on the arbor nut.

    Thanks for you patience. I have the day off tomorrow, so any answers right away MUCH appreciated.

  • #2
    With a dado stack-up you do not need to use the flange washer. just use the nut. The thick stack is stable enough not to need the washer. Make sure the teeth of the individual blades/chippers are offset so as not to interfere with the stack fitting tight down at the hub (arbor). Some sets include this in the directions, and some don't, but it is an accepted practice and it is safe. One thing that you do need to watch out for is that without the washer, the outside blade (closest to the nut) will rotate as you tighten the nut. It may take a couple of trys to get it tight without the teeth resting against each other.
    If the teeth are pressed against each other, it can damage the teeth, and will cause part of the blade to cut wider, giving an uneven edge. In the worst cast, the blades could shift when you cut wood, causing a loose stack-up when they rotate back where they are no longer pressed together, so it is important you use all your senses when using one. If you experience an unusual vibration or noise, shut down the saw, unplug it, and check your set-up (a good practice anytime you use the saw).
    When you install it, you should have threads showing outside of the nut.

    By the way: The "good" arbor is not longer, it just does not have a one-thread wide recess up at the arbor shoulder end which would allow the a chipper to drop into it and run out of round with the rest as well as interfering with getting a tight stack. Also, no need to apologize: You checked what you could and could not find the answer. For that I thank you. It is better to re-ask a question than be hurt. The risk of upsetting someone on this forum is not worth you are your tools getting damaged! You'll never meet hardly any of us in real life anyway, but you have to live with your health and the result of your actions all the time.

    JMTCW
    Go
    Practicing at practical wood working

    Comment


    • #3
      Gofor is right one the money as usual.

      Here's the section of the 3650 manual (pages 65 & 66) on using a dado blade;





      As you can see the manual says it is OK to not use the outer flange washer when using a dado blade.
      Last edited by Bob D.; 10-19-2007, 04:57 PM.
      ---------------
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      ---------------
      ā€œIf I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.ā€ - Albert Einstein
      ---------
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      • #4
        Originally posted by Gofor View Post
        Also, no need to apologize: You checked what you could and could not find the answer. For that I thank you. It is better to re-ask a question than be hurt. The risk of upsetting someone on this forum is not worth you are your tools getting damaged! You'll never meet hardly any of us in real life anyway, but you have to live with your health and the result of your actions all the time.

        JMTCW
        Go
        that my friend is the best advise anyone could every get out of this fourm. great advise gofor.
        9/11/01, never forget.

        Comment


        • #5
          If you don't have an owner's manual, you can download it from elsewhere on this website. If you have it and haven't read it, I recommend you do so. It contains all kinds of worthwhile information on calibration and operation of the saw.

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