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Got my jet bench top table saw...

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  • Got my jet bench top table saw...

    I received my jet table saw from amazon, very big improvement over the cheapo delta shopmaster I was running till now. I would love to get a ts2400 but have no place to keep it right now and it wouldn't fit behind my seat in the silverado, so this is a great compromise.

    I have only used junky table saws in the past--the best one I've tried being the dewalt jobsite saw, and I have never done the calibrating or even changed a blade before now. I searched the forum for some insight on some of this stuff, but came up kinda short, so here is my whole list of questions for consideration of the gang.

    1. I have never used a blade guard or splitter or pawls. I would like to start because even though I have hundreds of hours using shitty table saws to rip everything from ply to 4x to milling my own trim I am trying to be a gooder boy. My concerns are as follows--I am mostly going to be ripping finished 1/4" ply goods and some poplar. The poplar I don't care about as much, but will the pawls scrape the finished ply? (I'll find out soon enough I guess, but if there is a solution to this potential problem lemme know).

    2. I changed the blade to a 80 tooth upgrade and as it was my first time changing a blade on a TS I was surprised at
    A) the fact that the nut was so tight from the manufacturer that I had to give the wrench a pretty strong tap with a hammer to loosen it.
    B) when the arbor nut and outer flange were removed, the blade had to be pried off because even though it was loose there were some sort of tiny "tabs" or something on the arbor that were slightly bigger than the hole.
    C) When tightening the new blade into place a LOT of effort was need to secure it--so much that I actually thought it was tight and learned otherwise when putting the insert back the blade wasn't even close to square. I figured this had to do with it being caught on the afore mentioned "tabs" so I tightened it a lot more. Then, when trying checking for square to the table top I noticed a fair bit of run out on the blade still, so I tapped the arbor nut even tighter with the hammer. It got better but still needed more, so I tapped it again, and more and more--way more than seems right to me, but since it was so tight to begin with I thought maybe this is how it is on table saws? It did eventually correct the runout. The manual only shows hand tightening and I don't see how one could safely exert near that much pressure by hand so close to the blade and on any other tools I've changed blades on it was usually not correct to put so much pressure on the arbor nuts. Is this normal procedure for a TS?
    Other than that, without having run it yet, I like it a lot. The fence, while not as good as more expensive kits, is exactly true to the miter slots, at least as far as a combo square can tell, and I love the action of the adjustment for blade height and tilt. The positive stops are correct out of the box too. Can't wait to make use or the table extensions and out feed extension and am also looking forward to seeing how the belt drive affects noise and blade wobble. Will be firing it up on monday or tuesday!
    Last edited by woodenstickers; 05-19-2007, 06:32 PM.
    A good carpenter makes few mistakes, a great carpenter can fix his own.

  • #2
    Re: Got my jet bench top table saw...

    Something is wrong. It should not need all that force. I also have the 3650 and even the first time I removed it, it was not that hard to remove.

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    • #3
      Re: Got my jet bench top table saw...

      Sounds like there might be a burr on the threads of the arbor or the nut....if not, it still doesn't sound right to me. I just barely snug mine. Blades tend to be self tightening because of the direction the spin relative to the thread orientation.

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      • #4
        Re: Got my jet bench top table saw...

        Look foward to hearing how it works. It is a great price for what you get. Enjoy!!

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        • #5
          Re: Got my jet bench top table saw...

          First, I would take a machinist file a clean up all those "tangs" on the threads. They prevent the blade from properly seating on the arbor and will destroy the threads in the nut.

          Second, if you are running finished wood through it, a featherboard clamped to the fence can provide kickback protection and won't be as bad as the pawls in scratching the finish. For a featherboard, you can make your own out of pine or buy one of the many commercial variations out there, whichever suits your use best.

          I hope you are not depending on glue to hold the finished boards together, as the glue will only bond to the finish (if you have a compatible glue) and the finish does not bond to the wood substrate near as strong as to raw wood.

          Go
          Practicing at practical wood working

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Got my jet bench top table saw...

            Originally posted by Gofor View Post
            First, I would take a machinist file a clean up all those "tangs" on the threads. They prevent the blade from properly seating on the arbor and will destroy the threads in the nut.

            Second, if you are running finished wood through it, a featherboard clamped to the fence can provide kickback protection and won't be as bad as the pawls in scratching the finish. For a featherboard, you can make your own out of pine or buy one of the many commercial variations out there, whichever suits your use best.

            I hope you are not depending on glue to hold the finished boards together, as the glue will only bond to the finish (if you have a compatible glue) and the finish does not bond to the wood substrate near as strong as to raw wood.

            Go

            Yeah, sadly the very first cut I made with it was too small to use the guard OR push stick--it was poplar at 1/2" which is a very common cut for me. I usually cut about 2/3 of the way through the board, tip it up and flip it to finish cutting through the last third without getting close to the blade. For my purposes this is accurate enough and with the new saw it was incredibly smooth. I can't do this type of cut with the guard in place.

            As for the burrs or tangs, I am going to investigate what the problem is this weekend but for now the blade is on there and working well with no run out. I'll call JET customer service if I need to get any answers about why this happened once I have a better idea of what "this" is. I have read good things about their customer service.

            For the plywood, it is only finished on one side, the other side is raw wood so the glue we use soaks right in. It is a water based laminate glue that gets rolled or brushed on, and I like to use some 23 gauge pins as well. The surface of the cabinet that I am gluing it to gets sanded and coat of glue as well so it bonds like crazy. Sometimes too much if you are trying to finesse it into place.

            Using the new saw today was pure joy. Keep in mind that I upgraded from pure crap and have spent many years making due with a wobbly arbor, horrible fence, tiny table etc, so take it with a grain of salt. I doubt that this saw compares to the ts2400 or the like, but for the size and price it fit my needs exactly. So here goes:

            The rip capacity is great. The table extension stays even with the table even fully extended.

            The fence is mediocre, much better than my old one but not perfect. I am in the habit of checking the front and back of the blade with a tape before each cut, and I may have to keep that habit up--I am going to adjust the blade to the miter slots tomorrow because I think it must be out a bit and maybe that is the problem, if not I'll recheck the fence but one thing is for sure, the fence can be "tweaked" before locking it to make the front or back more parallel so I don't know if I can ever trust it.

            One thing I love about it is the fence can be stored on the side of the saw which makes it fit in my truck very nicely.

            The miter gauge and slots are not useful at all. The slop in the gauge is out of control and the slot is 5/8" so from what I've read it cannot be easily upgraded with an after market one. I expected this from other reviews and read that some people fixed it by building it up with tape--I don't know if I will bother or not.

            It is much more quiet and smooth than my last saw, I would bet it could almost pass the nickel test if on a good solid stand. The cuts were smooth and I was shocked how much less dust is created by a saw without the run out problems. It made factory perfect edges on my ply.

            So far I love it and am very pleased with how much easier it will make my work week.

            Eli
            A good carpenter makes few mistakes, a great carpenter can fix his own.

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