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Hypoid saw questions

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  • #31
    Re: Hypoid saw questions

    Marathon blades used to be the only blade you would see on the job.Starting to see the Diablo take their spot.

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    • #32
      Re: Hypoid saw questions

      The red Diablo is not a blade, it's a lumber slicing razor with most blades you expect some grunt out of the saw, but with the Diablo it just whisks right through like it's nothing.

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      • #33
        Re: Hypoid saw questions

        S W W

        Ever try one of these? A step up from the Dieblo.
        http://www.freud-tools.com/freudproftks.html

        For anyone with a compound miter saw or sliding compound miter saw, give one of this series a try. It's better than getting a new tool, and if you have a really good miter saw with the OE stinker on it, please replace it.
        http://www.freud-tools.com/freudlu9tefi.html
        Last edited by Woussko; 11-03-2007, 01:17 AM.

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        • #34
          Re: Hypoid saw questions

          Woussko, thanks for the link. Those look like they're from the same family of diablo blades. Have you tried any of those?

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          • #35
            Re: Hypoid saw questions

            I pound the snot out of my Makita hypoid saw, and it begs for more. Try a bigger extention cord, it needs 15 amps and full voltage. I put a good blade on mine from the get go, and it has been fine for 4 hard years. I dont cut just wood, this saw sees, metal, roofs(complete with shingles), big timbers, and anything else that needs to be cut. It aint an old Skill 77, but my arm likes it better

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            • #36
              Re: Hypoid saw questions

              SWW

              I tried one of them on my Milwaukee Tilt-Lok side winder. It helped it cut much better than the POC OE blade. As others have said a blade is made for certain cuts. In most cases it pays to have more than one blade depending on what you're cutting and if you want to crosscut or rip cut.

              I plan to get a few more of them as so far they have done me well. The Dieblo blades work well too, but not quite as well as their pro line.


              Note to self: Get rid of Tilt-Lok saw and buy Bosch worm drive. Option 2 - Get the worm drive for the tuff work and keep the T-L too.
              Last edited by Woussko; 11-04-2007, 09:57 PM.

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              • #37
                Re: Hypoid saw questions

                What comes to mind for me is to CHECK the gear oil in the gear case. I bought a new Ridgid worm drive, and FORTUNATELY had the presence of mind to check the oil level before I used it. MOST of the times they are shipped full, but for some reason mine was not. They will run quite a while with no/low lube, but will start to bog and bind after a few cuts.

                Secondly, your extension cord. Pg. 4 of your Service Manual (http://www.makita.com/assets_product...uals/5277B.pdf) gives you specific recommendations for AWG and cord length.

                As for the Freud blades? THE ONLY blades I use! PERIOD! Hands down the BEST Damn blade on the Market! Freud and Ridgid should get together and make FRidgid tools!

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                • #38
                  Re: Hypoid saw (lube) questions

                  Originally posted by doubtingtom View Post
                  slightly OT .... but are there 'convenient' places to get quality worm drive lube (like Skil 80111) in single tubes? I talk to contractors who have never changed the lube for years, but I prefer to change it early per the Skil manual. Is there a 'reliable' generic lube alternative in typical auto parts stores?
                  Internet sources cost as much for shipping as the tube of lube ...

                  Tom B
                  Tom, go to your local Dodge/Chrysler dealer and get your self a quart of 75w-140 HYPOID SYNTHETIC gear lube. I use it in my Ridgid and it works like a champ. Smooth starts and no bog. It has an anti-foaming agent in it and is multiweight and meets the MIL specs of most saws and AUTO manufacturers.
                  Last edited by YankeeConCo; 11-04-2007, 09:53 PM. Reason: Add'l info.

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                  • #39
                    Re: Hypoid saw (lube) questions

                    i have the ridgid worm as well and if i remember the case only holds an ouce or two not very much at all and the ridgid has a dipstick lol
                    9/11/01, never forget.

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                    • #40
                      Re: Hypoid saw questions

                      Woussko - if the pro series Freud blades cut better than the Diablo I'm using, then I'm thinking at that point you don't even need a saw anymore. Just throw the blade at the wood and it'll probably cut it for you! LOL

                      Originally posted by Woussko View Post
                      SWW

                      I tried one of them on my Milwaukee Tilt-Lok side winder. It helped it cut much better than the POC OE blade. As others have said a blade is made for certain cuts. In most cases it pays to have more than one blade depending on what you're cutting and if you want to crosscut or rip cut.

                      I plan to get a few more of them as so far they have done me well. The Dieblo blades work well too, but not quite as well as their pro line.


                      Note to self: Get rid of Tilt-Lok saw and buy Bosch worm drive. Option 2 - Get the worm drive for the tuff work and keep the T-L too.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Re: Hypoid saw questions

                        Screeter

                        That just might work if you threw it just right and with enough force.

                        To everyone: Worn drive saws only take a few tablespoons of oil. Buying a quart of Mobil 1 gear oil would last longer than the saw in many cases. I think I'll buy the real thing marked by Bosch or Skil in an 8 Oz tube and save some $$$ for another bowl of Hush Hound #3 food for my dinner.


                        Woussko is an old hound that loves to howl.

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