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MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

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  • #16
    Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

    Checked mine out on the bevel cuts - right on, no problem there.

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

      I am wondering if the new LZA is Ridgid's attempt to correct the slider issue. I am contemplating buying the LZA if it is true that they have figured it out.

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

        Originally posted by tacm1965 View Post
        I've read others saying the laser was worthless, but it has to be adjusted to what each person will get used to.
        tacm1965,

        The reason you've read where people say the laser is worthless for accurate cuts, is because those people are talking about the laser that is shipped with RIDGID's MS1290LZ, or MS1290LZ1.

        The laser supplied with those units is NOT adjustable & IS worthless for accurate cuts. However, it's not just RIDGID. Any Miter Saw with a side mounted fixed laser is like that. Doesn't matter if it's a DeWalt, Makita, Hitachi etc...etc...etc...

        Unfortunately for people who bought the MS1290LZ, or MS1290LZ1, RIDGID will not step up to the plate & supply those owners with the adjustable laser. Instead RIDGID Tech Support / Customer Service insists the fixed laser does give an accurate referrence line.

        Of course, when you ask RIDGID Tech Support / Customer Service if the fixed laser already gave such a perfectly accurate referrence cut line, why would RIDGID go to the trouble & expense of now shipping out the MS1290 with an adjustable laser, they have no answer.

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

          I have just purchased the 12 inch sliding double bevel mitre saw with the lza at the end of the model number. The lazer as well as the whole alighnment of the saw is adjustable it is in your owners manual.We are reading our owners manuals right?

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

            I have a LZ model from HD thats about 5 1/2 yrs old... and I'm disgusted. I thought that I was the only one with this tracking problem and now it appears that I;m not. I figured that I had done something wrong. You can square the fence and table all day long but the tubes will still track out of square when extended all the way out (to about 1/8" out of square!!) I'm going to contact a tech and see if I can't get a new power head from an "A" model sent out to see if the newly produced models have fixed this issue yet. It's as if the bearing that supports the powerhead were pressed in incorrectly or the casting was not correct, either way it's completely unacceptable to sell a miter saw that doesn't friggin cut straight. A 600$ Saw that can't cut a straight line is as good as scrap. I was young(er) when I bought this saw and thought it was the cats ***... big dual bevel with a friggin lazer on it's forehead.(which is also worthless btw) Now that I'm older and have wasted several hundred feet in crown cutoffs that didn't matchup and cursing my math and ability, I find that it wasn't me all along.... I found all this out today! five years later! OY! Do yourself a favor if you haven't already bought this boat anchor yet and get youself a mikita.

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

              Originally posted by Newman View Post
              Do yourself a favor and stay away from Ridgid miter saws.
              I too, would not recommend the ms1290lza (the one I have) I am having issues with the saw guard not retracting enough to be able to saw the wood....ridgid replied to this, but I was not able to access the solution, so I don't know if they have one...still waiting for a solution

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

                Originally posted by NailBanger View Post
                I have a MS1290LZ and I have to say after 1 year usage the only issue I have with it is the Dust Collection, seems to me it would be an easy fix for the RD team at Ridgid but aside from that my saw cuts true unlike saws that others have had problems with. Maybe I just got lucky and got a lemon. If your getting the 1290 do yourself a favor and get the utility vehicle to accompany it. Its extra bucks but its worth it if you move it alot or using alot of long stock.


                Cheers
                Bill
                Hi, Bill,

                I installed a stiff deflector plate under the scoop on mine (drilled a hole and use a machine screw with wing nut) and that helps to funnel the dust into the intake. I use a good powered dust collector connected to a specially made stand. The plate is quickly detachable, and I have a second one that is shorter for cutting thicker wood. Photos are attached.

                Howard Ferstler
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #23
                  Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

                  Originally posted by GFarra View Post
                  Newman,

                  What are your reasons for stating this? I was in the market for a 12" dual bevel saw and was torn between the Ridgid R4121 and the DeWalt DW706...I think. I bought the Ridgid though I have not yet set it up.

                  It will be used for general homeownership stuff at first but later be put to use in woodworking. Thus I'm definately concerned about having an accurate saw....was the R4121 not a good choice???

                  Thoughts please

                  Thank you

                  George
                  George, the Ridgid 10-inch miter saw was top rated by Consumer Reports magazine a while back. The Ridgid 12-inch slider has been highly rated by several woodworking journals. Don't trust anybody who bad mouths a tool with no explanation.

                  Howard Ferstler

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

                    Originally posted by Newman View Post
                    If you do a search you will see that there are lots of post where people are having problems with Ridgid miter saws not being square or 45 to the fence. It appears that Ridgid has not addressed the issue. I figure with so many other miter saws to choose from, why take a chance with the Ridgid. If you already have it, why not try it and see if you are perhaps one of the lucky ones.
                    I have checked mine carefully and it has no problems. The problems that some people are having does not involve the blade not being 90 degrees to the fence when set for exact right-angle cuts. It involves the rails moving the entire blade assembly at a slight angle, even though the blade is not skewed away from square within the assembly.

                    Consequently, if one is just doing non-sliding "chopped" cuts there will be no problem. The blade will be square and the rails are not being used. On the other hand, if one is doing sliding cuts the blade will be very slightly pulled to the side as it cuts, even though it is cutting at 90 degrees to the fence. With typical jobsite construction work this artifact would not mean a thing. On the other hand, if one is doing precision cuts for furniture work the problem might be of concern.

                    As I noted, my blade-carrier assembly does not move this way, and so my cuts are square whether I am doing simply chopped cuts or doing sliding cuts. It may be that some production samples have the problem and some do not. Fortunately, Home Depot does have a return policy (90 days, I think) and so those who discover the anomaly and are upset about it have a way to fix things.

                    I will note that the saw has been well reviewed in several critical woodworking magazines, and I assume that the reviewers did not detect any carrier skewing with their samples.

                    Howard Ferstler

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

                      Originally posted by mattwhite View Post
                      I have a LZ model from HD thats about 5 1/2 yrs old... and I'm disgusted. I thought that I was the only one with this tracking problem and now it appears that I;m not. I figured that I had done something wrong. You can square the fence and table all day long but the tubes will still track out of square when extended all the way out (to about 1/8" out of square!!) I'm going to contact a tech and see if I can't get a new power head from an "A" model sent out to see if the newly produced models have fixed this issue yet. It's as if the bearing that supports the powerhead were pressed in incorrectly or the casting was not correct, either way it's completely unacceptable to sell a miter saw that doesn't friggin cut straight. A 600$ Saw that can't cut a straight line is as good as scrap. I was young(er) when I bought this saw and thought it was the cats ***... big dual bevel with a friggin lazer on it's forehead.(which is also worthless btw) Now that I'm older and have wasted several hundred feet in crown cutoffs that didn't matchup and cursing my math and ability, I find that it wasn't me all along.... I found all this out today! five years later! OY! Do yourself a favor if you haven't already bought this boat anchor yet and get youself a mikita.
                      Generally, when cutting crown moldings all one would need is a straightforward chop cut, without using the sliders at all. If this is done, the blade can be trued to 90 degrees or whatever other angle is required in relation to the fence. Only slide cuts have this skewing problem with some samples.

                      My own unit has no problems with either straightforward chop cuts or sliding cuts, so I assume that there were production variables involved with the saw. Those doing rough-and-tumble construction work will have a saw that is accurate enough, even if it is one of the units with the problem you note. On the other hand, if they are doing fine furniture work that requires doing slider cuts then they might have problems. Fortunately, Home Depot does have that 90-day return policy.

                      New owners should check their saws for both blade squareness AND slider squareness. The former can be corrected by the owner. The latter might not be correctable.

                      Howard Ferstler

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

                        I have the same problem with the saw I just purchased. How did you fix this. Thanks

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

                          Originally posted by Newman View Post
                          Do yourself a favor and stay away from Ridgid miter saws.
                          This is a pretty strong statement, and strong statements require strong proof. What is your proof?

                          I own the 1290 slider and have done a great deal of work with it and it has worked extremely well with every project. I also have posted illustrated reviews of the saw on two different web sites, and even showed how to install a dust guide that improved the ability of the unit to scavenge dust. This requirement was the only "defect" I found with the saw's design, but that happens to be an inherent defect with just about any of the sliding types on the market.

                          The saw has had good reviews in one or two woodworking magazines, and I believe was a top-rated one in one review and the best "bang for buck" model in another. In addition, some time back Consumer Reports magazine did a review of basic chop-style saws and the Ridgid ten incher was the top-rated model.

                          So, there you have some of my strong proofs regarding the very good quality of the Ridgid miter saw lineup. Again, what is your strong proof that substantiates an opposite point of view?

                          Howard Ferstler

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Re: MS1290LZ, MS1290LZ1 & MS1290LZA What's the difference?

                            Originally posted by NailBanger View Post
                            I have a MS1290LZ and I have to say after 1 year usage the only issue I have with it is the Dust Collection, seems to me it would be an easy fix for the RD team at Ridgid but aside from that my saw cuts true unlike saws that others have had problems with. Maybe I just got lucky and got a lemon. If your getting the 1290 do yourself a favor and get the utility vehicle to accompany it. Its extra bucks but its worth it if you move it alot or using alot of long stock.


                            Cheers
                            Bill
                            Yep, dust collecting can be a problem with sliding miter saws in general, because any scavenging "scoop" attached behind the blade has to be able to clear any workpiece no matter how thick. I did a review of this saw on several web sites and the reviews touch on how I fixed the dust-scavenging problem. Here is the location of one of those reviews:

                            Review: Ridgid MS1290LZ Sliding Compound Miter Saw - by ferstler @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community


                            Howard Ferstler

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