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  • Question concerning 18v cordless drills.

    Ok, heres my situation.

    I bought myself the 18v lithium ion drill after xmas for 129.99

    Then a friend of mine have me a nicad 2.5Ah battery, his 18v impact driver, 18v circ saw, and 18v recip saw.

    I saw yesterday that home depot has the 18v nicad drill kit on sale for 99.99, the major diff being that it comes with 2 batteries, and a case.

    The question is this, should I take back the lith ion drill ad get the nicad, fr the extra batteries, or should I just keep the lith ion?

    Home depot seems to have some decent deals on now, when the new lithium ion kits come out, ca we expect a cheap introductory price, or will they be pricey because they are new?


    PS: my usage is stricly for home reno use (casual)

  • #2
    Re: Question concerning 18v cordless drills.

    i'd try to get your $30.00 back cus they're going for $99 with one battery...

    but i don't know, i say keep your drill cus it's noticeably lighter then the drill that comes with the 2.5Ah batt...

    what i'd do if i were you is save up and buy a bigger kit later with all the other fixings...

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Question concerning 18v cordless drills.

      I second Duece, on the keep the drill option. The 18V LI compact drill is a completly new design and in my opinion is far superior to the 18V NiCad. The compact is far lighter, has great power, perfect trigger control, and the surprisingly long lasting very light 1.5AH batts and the surprisingly useful LED light for those dark corners.
      The 18V NiCad is a tank by comparison especially if you use the2.5AH MaxHD batts which will make it heavier yet. The 18V NiCad eats up batts and is notorious for trigger failure problems. Although some of these issues might not seem important to the home owner. I would suggest a short time of trying to hold the tank NiCad model over your head while screwing in those drape bracket screws would change your mind. You may already know about the benefit of the light in those dark corners. You don't want to find out about the issues of dealing with a failed trigger control causing the trigger to become a straight off and on switch.
      You may have guessed I like the 18V LI compact and you are correct. I have used alot of cordless drills over the years and believe it may be the best all around drill I've ever used.
      Nice catch on the other 18V tools. the LI batts can be used in all those tools. I have a MaxSelect impact tool and prefer the 18V LI batts in it due to weight. I have never tested our 18V 2.5 NiCad batts against the 18V LI, however would think they might give the bigger/heavier NiCads a run for their money.
      One additional thing. If your circ saw is one of those models that accepts the 24V LI batt(data plate will show 18/24 volt ) do yourself a favor and score some 24V batts if you want to take that saw in to hyperdrive. Huge inprovement over the 18's. Note:the 24V batts will require they're own charger. 24V batts were around $75 and the charger $35 new last time I checked Ebay. Of course on Ebay you won't get the SLA. Enough out of me. Hope this was helpful...Ray

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Question concerning 18v cordless drills.

        Originally posted by roadrashray View Post
        I second Duece, on the keep the drill option. The 18V LI compact drill is a completly new design and in my opinion is far superior to the 18V NiCad. The compact is far lighter, has great power, perfect trigger control, and the surprisingly long lasting very light 1.5AH batts and the surprisingly useful LED light for those dark corners.
        The 18V NiCad is a tank by comparison especially if you use the2.5AH MaxHD batts which will make it heavier yet. The 18V NiCad eats up batts and is notorious for trigger failure problems. Although some of these issues might not seem important to the home owner. I would suggest a short time of trying to hold the tank NiCad model over your head while screwing in those drape bracket screws would change your mind. You may already know about the benefit of the light in those dark corners. You don't want to find out about the issues of dealing with a failed trigger control causing the trigger to become a straight off and on switch.
        You may have guessed I like the 18V LI compact and you are correct. I have used alot of cordless drills over the years and believe it may be the best all around drill I've ever used.
        Nice catch on the other 18V tools. the LI batts can be used in all those tools. I have a MaxSelect impact tool and prefer the 18V LI batts in it due to weight. I have never tested our 18V 2.5 NiCad batts against the 18V LI, however would think they might give the bigger/heavier NiCads a run for their money.
        One additional thing. If your circ saw is one of those models that accepts the 24V LI batt(data plate will show 18/24 volt ) do yourself a favor and score some 24V batts if you want to take that saw in to hyperdrive. Huge inprovement over the 18's. Note:the 24V batts will require they're own charger. 24V batts were around $75 and the charger $35 new last time I checked Ebay. Of course on Ebay you won't get the SLA. Enough out of me. Hope this was helpful...Ray
        ray, someone told me you can get the SLA on an ebay auction, only thing is it has to be brand new and has to have it's UPC still, if you go to ridgid's online registration, there's a pull down for "online auction", you gotta send a print out of the auction, it has to say new, and you gotta send in the upc, so basically you can't get the SLA for a bare tool on ebay, but if it's say a new cordless jig saw max select in box, then you can send in the upc on the box and send it in...

        someone correct me if it's wrong

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Question concerning 18v cordless drills.

          Originally posted by DeuceLee View Post
          ray, someone told me you can get the SLA on an ebay auction, only thing is it has to be brand new and has to have it's UPC still, if you go to ridgid's online registration, there's a pull down for "online auction", you gotta send a print out of the auction, it has to say new, and you gotta send in the upc, so basically you can't get the SLA for a bare tool on ebay, but if it's say a new cordless jig saw max select in box, then you can send in the upc on the box and send it in...

          someone correct me if it's wrong
          Deuce - wrong. When I first started buying Ridgid tools, I called customer support to clarify that. They told me plainly that this was a no. However, you can still buy from eBay and register the tools from the LLSA - but you have to buy a tool that is new, has the UPC, AND has a copy of the original RETAIL receipt. That's how I sell some Ridgid tools on eBay - brand new, w/ receipt and UPC.

          Now, who knows - some may have got away with it before, and lucked out and got it registered. But, if you really want the LLSA, is it really worth the risk?

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Question concerning 18v cordless drills.

            Originally posted by canucksartech View Post
            Deuce - wrong. When I first started buying Ridgid tools, I called customer support to clarify that. They told me plainly that this was a no. However, you can still buy from eBay and register the tools from the LLSA - but you have to buy a tool that is new, has the UPC, AND has a copy of the original RETAIL receipt. That's how I sell some Ridgid tools on eBay - brand new, w/ receipt and UPC.

            Now, who knows - some may have got away with it before, and lucked out and got it registered. But, if you really want the LLSA, is it really worth the risk?
            well thanks for clarifiying that for us

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Question concerning 18v cordless drills.

              I get what you're saying though - it has "online auction" listed in the drop down list. But from what customer service states, if you are not the original retail purchaser, and you don't have the UPC and receipt, then you're S.O.L. But, if you purchase on eBay, and get the UPC and receipt for the registration, then it works fine.

              Comment

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