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Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

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  • #16
    Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

    Very neat, mheriot! I'm glad to hear you've found a shop that's willing to work on your saw. I have a 23-yr-old Poulan that was a present from Mom and Dad after I got married. We still use it and it's still going good. It takes a bit more maintenance these days, but the Hubby's good with small engines and has it running pretty well. It's also a 16" bar. I find that length to be about perfect for general firewood getting and taking down trees I'm comfortable with felling.

    Safety can't be preached enough around a chain saw. Do not put the tip in the ground. Ever. That is the quickest way to ruin a chain. Be VERY careful of your footing. No matter what you're cutting, have an exit strategy. If something happens, and there's some tension on the log, it can and WILL swing up and put you in a world of hurt. Saws can be replaced. You can't. Use proper head gear with goggles and ear protection. Gloves are a must, and must fit properly. Always keep your eyes on the chain and watch your cuts. Never start a cut with the tip. It's easy to get a bar stuck in a log as it pinches. Keep a maul around to free up the bar. Pry bars can be kinda handy too. Always carry bar oil and gas with you whenever you're using the saw. It's best to have another person with you for any chain saw adventure. And always have your cell phone handy.
    I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.


    • #17
      Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

      I'm glad you found a shop willing to work on it for you. As for sharpening the chain most shops have a chain grinder type sharpener with several wheels. If filing it a little is all that's needed you really got lucky. You might want to ask them about fuel mixture. Many of the older chain saws used #40 non-detergent oil with dye added and some additives. This was the old day 2 cycle engine oil. Depending on the exact engine it needed a 16:1, 24:1 or 31:1 mix. Today many better oils for such are synthetic or part synthetic and new EPA requirements demand cleaner burn so they normally use a 50:1 mix. If you look carefully at the fuel tank they may have some fuel mix info on it. For just light use the new oil mixed at 50:1 should work, but you might want to try to do something more old school.

      Be sure they check the condition of the bar, clean it well along with the chain and oil up both. They should be able to advise you on a good bar & chain oil and what to use for mixed fuel.


      • #18
        Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

        I keep a wooden wedge handy (you can buy plastic ones) to push in behind the saw blade if the log starts to pinch. I don't know how often you'll be using the saw, fuel stabilizer is a good idea. My 20 yr old Poulon was always a PITA to start after it sat for a month until I added the fuel stabilizer.

        VASandy is right - check all around, especially overhead, it's nice to know what may be dropping in.


        • #19
          Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

          Here are a few pics that I promised. It runs perfectly but needed a little TLC to get it in running condition again.

          2 cu in works out to be 33cc roughly. 14" bar, 3/8" 52 link chain.

          Recap of repairs so far:
          new fuel lines
          new air filter
          new fuel filter
          new spark plug
          new pull cord and handle

          I have a new drive sprocket on order and will also get a new bar and chain when the sprocket comes in. All 3 are Oregon brand.

          Total cost of repairs was around $60 for materials, all labor was self performed.

          P.S. The shop that looked at the saw was worthless. After 2 days I decided to call them and they said that there was "nothing wrong with it, it runs fine". They said they were planning on calling me and that they were still waiting on getting a price on a new sprocket. They also told me to use motor oil as bar and chain oil. I found the new parts after about 20 mins of searching online and a few phone calls to verify that the parts would fit my saw. I went back and picked up the saw and ordered the parts from my local engine shop and will install them myself.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by mheriot; 10-15-2008, 08:29 PM.


          • #20
            Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

            Little saws like that can be a lot of fun and do a fine job if not abused. I knew professional tree service people who mixed transmission oil with bar oil in the winter, but I don't know why they suggested you mix motor oil with bar oil unless it was used motor oil to save you some money? Please remember to flip your new bar to extend it's life. If you have access to a compressor, blow out the sprockets, bar rails and whatever else you can reach whenever flipping the bar, changing chains, or adjusting tension. The more sawdust and debris you can remove from your saw the better it will work. I have used Amsoil Synthetic 2 cycle in my chainsaws which are well over twenty years old. One mix of fifty to one works for all my two cycle engines which include weed wacker, back pack blower and chainsaws.


            • #21
              Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

              Some time ago most bar & chain oil was high viscosity and in the winter it was like glop. No way would it flow with a manual or pump oiler. People would use #10 non-detergent automotive oil in the winter. In warmer weather they used #30 non-detergent oil figuring they saved money but it really isn't the correct stuff. If you use a good brand of bar & chain oil and plenty of it, the bar, chain and sprocket last much longer than without the right oil. Check oil level anytime you are about to add fuel.

              AMSOIL is the pioneer of synthetic oils of many types. It doesn't come cheap but people that use it like it. As for 2 cycle high speed air cooled engine oil, I normally use Echo or Stihl and use a little more than on the bottle. That is a bottle for 1 gallon mix, I'll use 0.95 gallons of gasoline and I let it dip a long time into the fuel can. Be sure every time to shake it up before adding to the fuel tank and if you think, shake the chain saw a little before use but watch you don't slop fuel.

              And finally, you may want to get the correct file from Oregon (no off brand junk please) and a file handle. You can gently touch up the teeth and keep it cutting nice.

              If you contact Oregon they should be able to mail you their little guide on hand filing chains or just download it here -

              The above document is good reading for all chainsaw owners and users.

              Oregon Cutting Systems Group
              P.O. Box 22127 (97269-2127)
              4909 S.E. International Way
              Portland, OR 97222-4679 U.S.A.
              fax: 503-653-4201
              Last edited by Woussko; 10-15-2008, 11:36 PM.


              • #22
                Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

                Originally posted by Frankiarmz View Post
                Please remember to flip your new bar to extend it's life.
                That is why I am picking up the new bar, the old one doesn't seem "flippable" with that nose.

                Originally posted by Frankiarmz View Post
                One mix of fifty to one works for all my two cycle engines which include weed wacker, back pack blower and chainsaws.
                I am currently using a 40:1 mix in the saw (same as my weed whacker) and it is starting and running great. Should I try a 50:1 mix instead? As long as the plug isn't getting fouled and oily the 40:1 should be ok right?
                Last edited by mheriot; 10-16-2008, 07:21 AM.


                • #23
                  Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

                  40:1 is better on an older motor. My 15y.o. Shindawa has a 25:1 mix. More lube is better for the motor anyway.


                  • #24
                    Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

                    Update for those who care:

                    Got the new parts, all were Oregon except for the bar. All of the parts worked perfectly, except for the bar. The shop sold me a Husq. bar as a replacement assuring me that it was a direct swap and was cheaper. After putting the new bar on I noticed the chain wasn't getting oil. Turns out the Husq. bar is not a direct fit because the oiler holes don't line up correctly. Brought it back to the shop and the manager was embarassed at his employees lack of knowledge. Ordered the correct Oregon part I had asked for in the first place and it fit perfect. The build quality of the Oregon bar is much better than that of the Husq. too. I would push Oregon parts to anyone looking to maintain/fix their chainsaw in a heartbeat.

                    Another problem I ran into was the oiler not being able to pump the bar oil that the shop sold me. It was too viscous. Picked up a different type that was thinner and the oiler seems to be pumping now.

                    I now have a almost completely rebuilt 20 yr old chainsaw that runs like a champ and only cost me about $80.


                    • #25
                      Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

                      This is great news and you learned along the way. As for Oregon quality, that's well known but it does cost more. On the other hand quality really costs us less when we think about it.

                      With regards to chain oiling you might put some in a small squirt can. When cutting hard squirt some on the chain now and then just to be sure it is well oiled.


                      • #26
                        Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

                        I am trying to locate a clutch for a Skil Saw 1612 Type 3 chain saw. Does anyone have any suggestions?


                        • #27
                          Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642


                          Give the folks at this site a call. Trying to find obsolete parts can be frustrating to impossible. Sometimes if you are dealing with a good small engine repair shop, you can get a similar part and modify to fit your needs. Don't know if it is possible with the clutch? Let us know how you mkae out.


                          • #28
                            Re: Old chainsaw question - Skil Saw 1642

                            A good reference for chainsaw safety and use from OSHA

                            A short safety video from Stihl
                            Importance of Protective Apparel

                            More on chainsaw safety

                            (a site dedicated to chainsaw safety provided by Stihl)

                            Last edited by Bob D.; 11-15-2008, 08:03 AM.
                            "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006



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