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TS3660 Blade guard problem

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  • TS3660 Blade guard problem

    I am having a problem getting the splitter on the blade guard to line up. It lines up with the splitter if I put a framing square on the blade and extend it to the splitter. However when I make a cut, the wood doesn't line up with the splitter. It takes considerable force for me to push the wood past the splitter.
    What else should I check?
    Thanks
    Last edited by antknee869; 01-22-2009, 10:27 AM.

  • #2
    Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

    Check the verticle alignment, too. Use a small machinists or combo square and check to see if the splitter is at 90degrees from the table. I ended up using a metal vice, a block of wood and a few good blows from a hammer to get the thing verticle.

    I had to use two straight edges, one on each side of the blade, to line up my splitter. It's a bit fiddly, and it took me probably 3 tries to get it right. Now that it's done though, it's right on even when I remove and replace it.

    It takes time, some properly placed curses, and patience. Eventually you'll get it. It's worth the time, as once it's right it's easy to use and is a great piece of safety hardware that you really have to use on a table saw.
    I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

      Ah, cursing... that is probably what I forgot. Thanks!

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

        What Sandy said.........had the same deal with mine when I first got my saw.

        Proper cursing technique must be followed in order to fine tune the blade guard. For best results curse quietly as loud cursing usually brings unwanted attention to ones self.
        Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

          Originally posted by antknee869 View Post
          I am having a problem getting the splitter on the blade guard to line up. It lines up with the splitter if I put a framing square on the blade and extend it to the splitter. However when I make a cut, the wood doesn't line up with the splitter. It takes considerable force for me to push the wood past the splitter.
          What else should I check?
          Thanks
          First, make sure your fence is parallel to the blade (not toed in at the back).

          Second, on aligning splitter:
          The splitter needs to be aligned completely behind the blade for its full length. For best results, use two straight edges, long enough to go from front of blade to back of splitter, one on each side. They must rest either on a blade tooth at the front and back, or between blade tooth front and back, so you may have to raise or lower the blade a smidgeon to get them set properly. If, like mine was, you cannot get the back of the splitter far enough to the right (right being as viewed from the front of the saw), note the little set screw on the base of the round shaft that the splitter assy slides on and off of. If you loosen this set screw, you can move the whole assembly more to the right. (IIRC, it takes a #4 or #4.5 metric allen wrench)
          Although the bottom of the splitter may be behind the blade, it may be tilted some. See the manual for getting it vertical (two bolts under the saw that will allow a little radial movement to get it lined up.). The blade must be set truly vertical for this step. If this isn't done, thicker wood will bind on the upper portion of the splitter.

          Aligning the splitter is probably the most frustrating part of the set up. Anything you move changes everything else. Just tightening a bolt will throw it out sometimes, so tighten the bolts slowly and at the same time (ex: 1/8 turn on each going back and forth between them after first getting hand snug). With the thin kerf blade that came with my saw, the splitter was only about .007" less than the saw blade, so there is not a lot of room for error. Sawdust buildup around the little stop pin on the mount shaft can throw it off enough to pull wood to the left.

          And just think, the first time you accidentally knock the splitter assy off the saw horse onto the concrete floor while you have it off to cut dados, you will probably have to align it again. DAMHIKT.

          Good Luck, and I hope this helps

          Go
          Practicing at practical wood working

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

            Yeah, it did seem that splitter wasn't much narrower than the cut... i will give your suggestions a try. Thanks

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

              I just assembled the saw with no problems other than missing end plates for the front and rear rails. However, when I ran a test piece of wood through the saw, it hung up on the splitter. So I shut down the saw and re-checked alignment, which seemed perfect. Then, I noticed that the provided saw blade is narrower than the splitter. In other words, the splitter is thicker than the saw blade's kerf. I confirmed this by lowering the blade out of the way and just trying to push the saw cut through the splitter only. It jammed in the kerf after about half an inch and wouldn't go any further. I can't think of any way around this problem other than to remove the guard, which I really don't want to do, or seeing if I can find a blade with a kerf that's at least as wide as the splitter. I am very open to suggestions.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

                It seemed to me too that the splitter is thicker than the kerf on the blade though I didn't mention it. I ordered a Forest WW II and will see what happens with that.
                I check my vertical alignment on the splitter and it was definitely off. I just played around with bending it slightly and seemed to get it to work pretty good.
                I found this product: http://www.leestyron.com/sharkridgid.php
                You can see that the mount is much more substantial on this splitter. Seems like that would eliminate and play in the vertical alignment.
                But I'd rather not sink more money in to the saw now.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

                  The crummy blade that comes stock with the TS is a thin kerf (at least it was with mine) and the splitter is sized for a standard 1/8" kerf. That and it was wopperjawed and required the persuasion techniques outlined in posts above.

                  So the final solution was to replace the blade with a full kerf one. First replacement was an OK blade, Ridge I think. Now I have a Forest WWII and it is a beast.

                  Also, wax the splitter just a little bit. It seems to help. Not gobs and gobs, just rub on a little.

                  One last thing, don't drop the guard assembly on the concrete after getting it adjusted.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

                    Originally posted by rwyoung View Post
                    The crummy blade that comes stock with the TS is a thin kerf (at least it was with mine) and the splitter is sized for a standard 1/8" kerf. That and it was wopperjawed and required the persuasion techniques outlined in posts above.

                    So the final solution was to replace the blade with a full kerf one. First replacement was an OK blade, Ridge I think. Now I have a Forest WWII and it is a beast.

                    Also, wax the splitter just a little bit. It seems to help. Not gobs and gobs, just rub on a little.

                    One last thing, don't drop the guard assembly on the concrete after getting it adjusted.
                    I agree completely with rwyoung! I have gone through some crappy, cheap blades. Right now I've settled on the Forest WWII and the Freud LU84. There are some decent blades out there, those are just the two I've found work best for me. I have both so when one's out being sharpened, the other one is on the saw. Lately I've been cutting some 2" x 6' solid cherry, and the Freud has done excellent on it. This is on a TS3650.

                    Aligning the splitter was the most difficult task I had with my saw. Now that it's set vertically and horizontally, it's easy enough to remove and replace and stays in alignment. As long as I don't drop it on the concrete floor, that is!!
                    I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

                      I replaced the provided Ridgid blade with a standard Craftsman blade I had lying around, now everything works fine. Kind of disappointing that Ridgid would ship a blade that can't be used with the blade guard.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

                        I just took a caliper to my splitter and it measured 0.70" thick. Plenty thin enough to handle most any thin kerf blade's cut. If yours is thicker than that then I'd suggest you contact Ridgid Customer Service about a free replacement.
                        Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

                          Just ran into this issue recently after purchasing/setting-up a new TS3660. Finally got around to looking on this forum. Enjoyed reading everyone's input.

                          The stock 40-tooth blade supplied with our saw has teeth averaging .070 wide, which translates to a kerf that's about .0715 wide. Meanwhile, the leading edge of the "knife" on the blade guard runs between .0815 and .0820. The shear burr may make it worse.

                          Also, keep in mind that there is a little left-over bend radius from the guard's 90 degree mounting flange, bowing the back of the "knife" slightly, so the steel's thickness is only one factor for needed clearance, even if you get the front of the "knife" perpendicular to the saw table and aligned with the blade.

                          Our blade to miter slot alignment is square within .001 and we spent a good while bending/nudging/cursing the guard until it was perpendicular and in-line with the blade. I noticed that the "knife" looked a little thick too, so aligned to the most often-used side of the blade (right, facing), not wanting to pinch material against the fence.

                          Initial test cuts on thinner material or that with little cut-off were fine. Thicker solid wood or thin material with wider cut-off would often completely halt after passing the blade during a cut. The first time through with a thicker solid block, I actually thought I may have been hitting the roll pin pawl stop or something. Nope. Wood pinched on the "knife" and stopped the cut cold.

                          Not good. I have to imagine that a fair number of saw newbys could actually draw blood attempting to force a cut around the "knife". While I'm not surprised that a lower-power saw would include a narrow kerf blade, it is kind of ironic for a safety device to create a hazard due to the blade pairing.
                          Last edited by shage; 02-05-2009, 09:18 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

                            shage, welcome to the forum. If what you say is true then it appears to me that the problem lies more with the supplied OEM blade then it does with the splitter. After a quick cruise through my Freud catalog I couldn't find a 10" blade, recommended for table saw use, that had a kerf of less than 0.90".

                            I don't want to get into a hissing match about the supplied Ridgid OEM blade but as many will agree, the best place for this blade is the trash can. Replacing the stock blade with an after market blade would seem to take care the problem.

                            It could very well be that Ridgid is now supplying a thicker splitter than what was supplied in the past as mine is not as thick as yours. However, even at .0815 or .082 thick there shouldn't be a binding problem when using a higher quality blade.
                            Teach your kids about taxes..........eat 30 percent of their ice cream.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: TS3660 Blade guard problem

                              I agree, BadgerDave. Ridgid's OEM blade came off after the first round of test cuts, since that would be the rational fix.

                              Still, we all may know better based on experience with tools in general, or at least seek answers... read... think. I can see many new saw owners not wanting (or knowing) to spend the extra money on a good saw blade or two. They're in the belief that they've left the BORG with a turn-key solution.

                              Perhaps the sheet steel thickness for the splitter did increase, or Ridgid began supplying thinner-kerf blades. Dunno.

                              In exploring the issue, I came across other recent forum posts out there (besides these Ridgid forums) with new owners reporting the same experience with the TS3650/3660 splitter getting stuck. One reported that he never heard back from Ridgid after contacting them. I haven't bothered.

                              It's "fixed" in our case (but a really stupid oversight by Ridgid as far as safety is concerned).

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