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rigid compound miter saw jam

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  • rigid compound miter saw jam

    hello I just bought the 12in compound miter saw about 3 months ago. when i was cutting my laminate and moulding the saw blade began to jam and get stuck in the wood. I went to home depot and told the sales associate to he told me to buy the rigid titanium blade. It was fine when I was cutting the materials for the closet but it began to jam again. It won't even cut through the laminate. Also I told him that after cutting my blade continues to run for a little while while its in the safety guard. Can you tell me what could be the problem. I would really like to get this work done. I only have a few more cuts to do. I shouldn't need a new blade for each room. They are expensive.

  • #2
    Re: rigid compound miter saw jam

    First, let me tell you that cutting laminate is "a bear" and will dull a blade much more quickly than if you were just cutting wood.

    But, I also need to ask how you are using the saw? Not implying any blame whatsoever, so please excuse the asking. But, I've seen so many guys use their miter saw as if they were cutting butter, just taking the poor thing and literally "chopping" it down into the cut, forcing it through the wood. While that might work with a brand new blade (but even then, I'd never do it), it's NOT the proper way to use the saw. Any circular saw (actually ANY saw of any type) needs to be fed with a speed that clearly lets the blade do it's job efficiently. Feeding or forcing the blade too fast will cause the blade to overheat and dull quickly, and it may well cause enough strain on the motor that it can be damaged.

    Now, all that said, we recently had a fellow install "Traffic Master"-brand laminate flooring in our kitchen here in Painted Post. I can't remember the number of boxes, but the kitchen floor area is about 9 x 18 ft. with an 'L' adding another 8 x 6 ft.

    Not ever having done a floor like that, I hired someone who was "experienced" and I assisted. There wasn't a tremendous amount of cuts and the guy had an older Ryobi portable 10" table saw (fold up with wheels). He bought a new blade to use and I think it was a 50 tooth, but I'm not sure. In any case, by the end of the job, the blade wasn't worth much and near the end, the cuts had to be fed very slow and there was definitely burning, but he never jammed the blade.

    I hope this helps,



    • #3
      Re: rigid compound miter saw jam

      i just took the blade apart using by operator's manual. on the manual it shows the inner blade, blad, outer blade and blade bolt. when I took mine apart there's the inner blade up against the spindle. Spindle is a fixed place on the saw not a removable piece right???. Well after the blade there is the outer blade washer, another black flat washer with one-side round groove and then the blade bolt. I did not buy any extra pieces so it came on the saw like that when I bought it from home depot. I just took that extra piece off and turned the saw on without cutting anything and it didn't stay running as long when I released the lever. But I am afraid to use it now. Newly divorced and new with the power tools. Can anyone tell me about this extra piece. It is smaller than the outer washer. I just want to make sure that it is not the inner washer that was installed on the wrong side. There are 5 removable parts at that junction. A washer, blade, washer, washer, bolt when I received it.

      When i installed the second blade I just thought it was an extra piece that they forgot to include in the manual. Let me know please. Thanks.


      • #4
        Re: rigid compound miter saw jam

        CWSmith you may be right and I don't mind the blaming. I've never used a miter saw before. I believe I just turned it on and pushed it down into the laminate. Not with any thought. When I received the new blade, the guy at home depot told me to go slow with the laminate which I did. As you lay the blade down into your materials do you want the blade to be moving very fast or slow? I tried both earlier this morning and the teeth would get stuck into the material and not go any further. I don't smell any burning and I've only made 2 cuts so far with the laminate since getting the new blade. I did do some casings though. They might have been 3 inch casings and baseboards enough for 3 windows, closet and 1 door frame.


        • #5
          Re: rigid compound miter saw jam

          I reread your posts a couple of times and I'm afraid your "wording" is leaving me with some questions. My apologies as I am not reading your statements very well.

          You didn't mention the exact model, but I believe you stated it was new, so I presume you mean you have the Ridgid model MS1250LZA 12-inch Compound Miter Saw with the Laser. I also presume that you have NOT mounted the laser. (I have the 10-inch miter saw and I recall that the laser was not mounted originally and came packaged in a small cardboard box and the owner could follow the instructions to mount it, if so desired. So, is that correct so far?

          Regarding the spindle (no, it's not removeable... that's basically the drive shaft of the motor, machined to accomodate the blade and the inner and outer mounting washers). I haven't put a new blade on mine in a couple of years, so I'm sort of only going by the intruction manual.

          I downloaded the instruction manual for the MS1250LZA which I am guessing is your saw. On page 17, is complete instruction for mounting the blade, the laser (if desired), and there is an illustration that clearly shows the position of the outer and inner washer and the blade.


          The instruction manual states that you should not remove the inner washer for any reason! The blade fits on the spindle, tightly against the inner washer and then the outer washer fits against the blade and is then fastened by that socket head capscrew. You turn that screw "counter-clockwise" to tighten it and "clockwise" to loosen it. (That's exactly the reverse of normal screws and bolts... but is exactly how all saw blades are tightened (CCW to tighten and CW to loosen).

          When mounting those washers, the instruction manual indicates that one side of the hole has a flat (much like the letter D)... you must ensure that the washers sit properly on the spindle which also has a flat (D) on the spindle shaft.

          If you were going to use the laser, it REPLACES the outer washer. Again, it would be necessary to align it properly on the spindle with regards to the spindle flat (D). You will need to find an easy to remember place to save the regular outer washer, as I'm sure there will be a time when you will need it again.

          When tightening the mounting bolt (Counter Clock-wise), you do not need to tighten it with great force. It should be snug and then maybe a quarter turn at best. If you make it really tight, you will have great difficulty loosening it when it's time to change the blade. Again, follow the instructions carefully.

          You mention that you have no experience and are just starting out, so I emplore you to read the entire instruction manual and take special care with the safety instructions. I absolutely hate to see anyone start off without the help and guidance of someone who has experience. Power saws are extremely dangerous and someone with no experience needs to become totally familiar with the tool and all of the dangers that are particular to the type of saw and the cutting action that they will be taking.

          Once you have mounted a new blade (or use a new saw for the first time), you should make sure that the blade is mounted correctly. Again, with the saw unplugged, and with the blade mounted properly, you should be able to turn the blade by hand. When so doing, you should note that the blade also turns the motor and that there is some resistance as the motor turns. If you find the blade is sloppy, easily turned on the spindle, or there is any side play... then the blade is not mounted properly and you need to review that section of the book and check each mounting step.

          Once powered, the blade should NOT spin freely or more than a few seconds after you have released the trigger. This saw is equipped with a breaking mechanism which should stop the saw quickly.

          Also, when using the saw... first you position the piece you are cutting, clamping it as necessary and suggested. Once the piece is secured in position, you move your left hand out of the saw's pass... by at least six inches or more, and using your right hand, press and hold the trigger and let the saw come up to full speed.

          Then and only then do you move the saw down, in a slow, even and determined speed, until it engages the wood. You should NOT force the saw, but should feed it as the blade carves through the wood. It takes only a short time to get the feel of how the saw and the blade are working.

          When you have completed the cut, DO NOT RAISE THE BLADE until you have released the trigger and let the blade come to a complete stop. Then and only then do you raise the blade, letting it rest in it's upward position. IF you raise the blade while it is still running, you take the chance and the danger that saw will kick the wood backwards and in so doing it can startle the operator, who might well react with that blade still spinning. Again, DO NOT RAISE THE BLADE until you have released the trigger and let the blade come to a complete stop.

          I hope this is helpful. I regret that I can not follow-up on this as I will be out of town for most of the week. Hopefully someone else will jump in here and give you all the help you can use. In closing, I'd be quite happy if you could find someone in your area to step you through a few things and make sure that everything with the saw and your project goes well.



          • #6
            Re: rigid compound miter saw jam

            Nice response there, CWS............
            Great Link for a Construction Owner/Tradesmen, and just say Garager sent you....


            A good climbing rope will last you 3 to 5 years, a bad climbing rope will last you a life time !!!


            • #7
              Re: rigid compound miter saw jam

              Thank you CWS. I've read your instructions and I found out that I wasn't being as safe as I should. First I haven't been using the clamp. I will now. Also, I never stopped the blade until I raised the blade back up in resting position. I will make sure I do that next time too.

              I now have the saw set up like it is on page 17 (Operator's manual). And yes I have model MS1250LZA. That is, I have the blade bolt, outer blade washer, blade and inner blade washer installed. But on the repair parts list for the same model they have the blade screw, blade washer, outer blade collar, blade and the inner blade collar and that is how it was set up when I bought it from the store. I have changed it to the illustration in the operator's manual and it did stop running after I released the lever. I just haven't tried cutting anything with it yet but before I do I will make sure that I use the clamp and release the lever while its in the down position. Thanks alot and have a safe and happy vacation.


              • #8
                Re: rigid compound miter saw jam

                FYI, you must know that you will dull a blade on any plunge type [tips are being dulled by the tip to surface attack, like scraping across ceramic]cut as the laminate has Al oxide, very abrasive as you are cutting across the tips. I learned this from a Freud rep. as I dulled an expensive 12" blade fast. A circ saw w. a speed square, Table saw, jig saw bimetal, SCMS[ can xcut non plunge if the boards are narrow enough], all cut by non plunge. A TCG, C$ carbide would be best but honestly as all are non critical un seen cuts a 7 1/2" circ saw carbide demo blade on a circ saw or TS is a good way to go and just toss the blade. A jig saw w. bimetal blade also is good with a speed square as a guide. Both are much cheaper and work fine.


                • #9
                  Re: rigid compound miter saw jam

                  Originally posted by carreon View Post
                  ... I tried both earlier this morning and the teeth would get stuck into the material and not go any further...
                  Do you mean that the blade would actually stop in the material?
                  If the motor is still spinning then your blade is LOOSE.
                  This would also explain why it takes a longer time to stop.
                  You have the blade on so that the sharp face of the tooth spins into the wood?
                  To make a cut the machine needs to be running at full speed, there is no way to throttle the blade speed then feed the blade into the material and let the blade cut, little force is necessary on the handle.
                  Laminate is brutal on blades, buy the cheaper line freud or similar blades (I won't use the really cheap ones, the teeth tend to fly due to poor brazing). If you look closely you can actually see sparks coming off the blade as you begin the cut in many laminates
                  Last edited by wbrooks; 06-29-2009, 11:36 AM.


                  • #10
                    Re: rigid compound miter saw jam

                    When you say, "The Teeth get Stuck?" do you mean the blade stops turning? If the blade stops turning, does the motor keep running? if so, the blade is loose, if not, then I would say you might be forcing it to quick or the blade is not up to full speed...and as everyone said, laminates are blade killers!