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Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

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  • Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

    About a year ago I purchsed a Rigid 3000 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer to pressure wash homes in my line of business (Window Cleaning). I have made the recommended oil changes.

    Problem: I turn the pressure washer on and it works fine for about 30 to 60 min. Then as the engine is on I pull the trigger and the engine begins to bog down and if I hold it long enough the engine will shut down but if I let it go the engine will run good. People have told me that it might be the pump overpowering the engine but I have no idea on what it could be.

    Open to suggestions?

  • #2
    Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

    Has anyone come to your aid. I think I am having some similar issues with mine. I did try cleaning the spark plug and it ran like new once I did that. I am also thinking of running some better (supreme) fuel in it the next time. This cure (which may be temporary) was something I tried and it has worked thus far. I just would like to hear some permanent solution from an expert.....

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    • #3
      Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

      You should change the spark plug once a year...They are cheap. Mine quit working last weekend i changed the spark plug and it works great.

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      • #4
        Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

        Check you oil level too, sound like oil pressure sw. could be killing engine. The E2 spark plugs are great and I have never needed to change any , they have a lifetime warranty.
        Is the PW on a level surface ? Get a Pressure gauge in line, ck. the settings running and idle. Rembember , the pump is set at to a general setting but has to be tested with each engine and set correctly when installed.

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        • #5
          Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

          Those E2 plugs sound like a great idea, but in reality are total crap. I've used them in 4-cycle and 2-cycle applications and have had premature failure every time. Then go back to the factory recommended Champion or NGK and never have another issue.... Later!

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          • #6
            Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

            i have a similar problem where the engine turns on however, when i try to use the pressure, it cuts off leaving a puff of smoke, I recently checked the oil and it looked like water had leaked it it,i changed the oil however,it still happens.Has this happened with anyone?

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            • #7
              Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer
              • Firstly, make sure you break in any small engines correctly. Do this accordingly with a new toy, and it cures a lot of longevity headaches with these new, small engine, high torque/temp toys.
              • High grade / high octane fuel (I personally use 91 octane. For the few pennies extra cost, for these small engines, it's well worthwhile in engine maintenance).
              • Fresh spark plugs - at least every other year or every 250 hours, if not sooner (depends on your usage).
              • Heavy weight oil (HD 30 - not 10W30 or something like that - you don't use this thing [likely not] when it's freezing temps outside, so a good heavy weight oil will run you better for the spring/summer/fall cleaning usage.
              • Keep air filters clean and let your engine breathe easy.
              • Fuel stabilizer in my small engine gasoline tanks. If I'm 100% sure that I'm going to go through it and use it within 15 to 30 days, then no worries. But gas oxidizes and goes stale easily, so I use a fuel stabilizer if it's iffy past that point.
              • Store properly for winter - pump saver for pressure washers, fogging oil for engine storage (along with gasoline emptying and running until empty).
              • An in-line water filter of some sort (in the household water system, in the hose connection, etc.) Any debris in the line will make things be a nightmare for you down the road.
              • And, last but not least: I use a small-engine treatment fuel-additive. Something that I add in to every other main 1-gallon storage tank of fuel that I use for my purposes (lawnmower, weed whacker, pressure washer, chainsaw, etc.) For the added cost of this, it's worth it's weight in gold. Small-engine fuel treatment of some sort works great in clearing up spark plug fouling, helping with idle issues, making sure valves don't get heavily gunked up, and helping the oil to work within it's limits better.
              I do all of these things together, and as anal or ridiculous as it sounds, I don't get any of these issues with small-engine headaches. I used to, but a friend steered me down this road, and things have been smooth sailing ever since.

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              • #8
                Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

                Originally posted by shadow745 View Post
                Those E2 plugs sound like a great idea, but in reality are total crap. I've used them in 4-cycle and 2-cycle applications and have had premature failure every time. Then go back to the factory recommended Champion or NGK and never have another issue.... Later!

                As usual we disagree. Well I have them in Husky 350 chain saw, Shindowa trimmers, TORO commercial mowers Honda GX PW's, Echo blowers, generator... No issues, 2 and 4 stroke. No failures. These are all quality engines , and all run better, plus I do not change the plugs. Do not know what you are talking about, maybe you bought the wrong plug. . Champion stock plugs are very cheaply made and wear out fast. NGK are better but none I have used are as good as the E2's.

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                • #9
                  Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

                  Bought the wrong plug? Hardly... I very carefully matched the engine numbers and specs.... Problem is the makers of the (deleted) E2 plugs list 1 plug for way too many applications. I thought they were a great idea, but tried them in multiple applications and it led to nothing but failure in all cases. Would start out OK then lead to hard starting then to total failure and fouling. AND I use equipment with very good engines. I know Champion are among the cheapest and I'd rather have NGK anytime, but it is sad that the $1 Champion plugs outlast and perform just as good as the E2 pieces of ****. I spent $4-5 for each of those and would like to stick them up the (deleted) of the people that make them. Enough said?

                  AND I disagree with pretty much everything you say and stand for especially those (deleted) *** pansy blue CAT pumps... CAT is a perfect name because (deleted) buy them. Later!
                  Last edited by ProBrand; 11-30-2009, 06:01 PM. Reason: Language

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                  • #10
                    Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

                    Gentlemen, please. Disagreements are one thing (I'm in on that game, too ), but vulgarity and insults are another.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

                      Originally posted by acestawindowcleaning View Post
                      About a year ago I purchsed a Rigid 3000 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer to pressure wash homes in my line of business (Window Cleaning). I have made the recommended oil changes.

                      Problem: I turn the pressure washer on and it works fine for about 30 to 60 min. Then as the engine is on I pull the trigger and the engine begins to bog down and if I hold it long enough the engine will shut down but if I let it go the engine will run good. People have told me that it might be the pump overpowering the engine but I have no idea on what it could be.

                      Open to suggestions?
                      Sounds like the motor isn't your problem, you need to check the check valve to make sure it is shifting when you squeeze the trigger. Your engine sounds like it trying to drive through a blocked unloader.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

                        From my suggestion
                        you must call to Pressure washer company from where you brought it.

                        2. thing please follow pressure washer buyer guide for better information.
                        3. Check engine oil
                        4. Might be Your power cable loose
                        http://www.pressurewasherscleaners.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

                          I have lost my instructions and wish to change my pump oil I am not sure what oil to use. Anyone with enough common sense not to loose the instructions please reply! Thankyou

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                          • #14
                            Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

                            To do a search for an owner's manual online, here's the link within Ridgid's webpages:

                            http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Literature-Search/index.htm

                            I can't remember offhand what the oil is for replacement in the pump. I have that same model, but mine doesn't have the CAT pump, mine is the brass tri-plunger one, so the pump itself doesn't require an oil change. For the engine's, a good 30-weight oil is for those (ie - 10W-30, HD-30, etc.), but I can't remember what the CAT pump requires.

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                            • #15
                              Re: Problems with Rigid 3000 psi 2.6 gpm Pressure Washer

                              If it's an AR axial cam pump, it uses a 70w90 synthetic.
                              If it's a CAT triplex, it uses a 10w30 or straight 30 synthetic.
                              "HONK if you've never seen a gun fired from a moving Harley"

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