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R4510 DADO Throat Plate

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  • #31
    Re: R4510 DADO Throat Plate

    Originally posted by Howard Ferstler View Post
    I made my own plate for standard use. I marked the outline (using the factory plate) on a piece of 3/8-inch thick chipboard, and cut the thing with my band saw. A piece of wood or chipboard or mdf that thick should sit nicely on the stabilizer bosses lining the plate cutout area, although some slight, bottom-edge sanding of the new plate might be necessary.

    The trick is getting the blade cut into the new plate, because a stock saw blade will not retract far enough for the new plate to fit entirely into the recess. After removing the riving knife assembly, I VERY carefully centered the plate as far down as I could without touching the retracted blade and then pushed the plate straight downward to seat while the blade was running. (Once seated, the blade should not cut clear through the new plate.)

    I then held the plate fast at the front and rear and raised the blade as the thing turned and cut upwards as far as required. I did not raise the blade extremely high, but still made a cut that was long enough to fit the knife and allow me to cut boards more than 1.5-inches thick. Going any further upward would compromise the integrity of the new plate. Reinstall the riving knife, and you are in business.

    A dado blade should allow this to be more easily done, because the plate should seat all the way with the blade retracted, and so the upward cut of a new slot should be less risky, although the blade will obviously be removing a lot more material. Go slow.

    A finished plate like this will have a tendency to be pitched out of the recess when the blade is turning, so I installed a small tab at the back underside which reaches under the cutout area. That stabilizes the plate nicely. I both screwed and glued the tab in place, just to make sure.

    The attached photo shows the plate (it also has two finger holes), and also shows part of an extension I installed on the back of the saw that acts as an outfeed support. I have an article somewhere on this site that explains how the extender was built and installed.

    This is a great little saw, by the way.

    Howard Ferstler
    Note that a free-sitting insert like that could potentially lift at the rear and cause problems, due to blade rotation, and so right at the beginning I installed a small tab on the bottom back end of the insert that extends under the rear of the opening (the stock insert also has a tab) to keep it from lifting. The tab was made from a piece of scrap metal (I cannot remember just what it was originally used on, but anything with decent stiffness would work), and is held in place by both a screw and two-part epoxy. A photo is attached.

    Howard Ferstler
    Attached Files

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