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  • Drill/driver clutch problem

    Just purchased a lithium-ion, 18v, 4-tool set. The drill is model R86007. In high (2) speed, the clutch works fine - when the screw begins to tighten, the clutch slips. In low (1) speed, the clutch doesn't work at all - it'll drive a screw right through the wood, even on very low settings. Is there a trick to this, or is my unit defective?

  • #2
    Re: Drill/driver clutch problem

    I have the same unit with the same issue. I took mine back to HD and they ALL had the same issue. I don't know why they would design it this way. Not defective maybe just questionable design. It does have a lot of torque for a compact unit.

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    • #3
      Re: Drill/driver clutch problem

      Just a guess. Although we are a contractor and have several Ridgid drills of various voltages and styles I have never tested any of them to check for clutch action when on the low speed setting and I'm to lazy to walk down in back and set something up now. When the drill is being used on the low setting, it is obviously for a high torque application at slow speed. Maybe the designers built the tool so the clutch would be disabled in this low speed, high torque application so that the drill could be locked in to applying the full force to the application with no slipping possible. The concept would be similar to locking differentials on a four wheel drive vehicle when maximum traction is desired. Like I said, this is just a guess, however it does make sense to me......Ray

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      • #4
        Re: Drill/driver clutch problem

        Very screwy (forgive the pun) situation. It does appear that they're all that way, but no explanation in the manual or elsewhere. Personally, I wouldn't mind the no-clutch environment in high speed, because that's what I use for drilling, but I use low speed to drive screws, and THAT'S where I want the control. FWIW, I called Ridgid yesterday, and the tech support person said that the clutch should work as it does on every other drill/driver, i.e., at all speeds. Took it in to HD, they called Ridgid and got the same answer. HD is sending it in for me, so we'll see what happens. If I remember, I'll post here when I get resolution.

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        • #5
          Re: Drill/driver clutch problem

          I have the same issue and this is the response I got.

          With this drill, the torque starts at 75 in lbs in the low speed. The drill is not defective. This is how this unit works.

          Best regards,

          Tim Beasley
          Consumer Response
          One World Technologies, Inc.


          I don't think this is a good design and I've tried other drills with lots of torque and not had this issue.

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          • #6
            Re: Drill/driver clutch problem

            I, too, got the response, both email and on the phone, that's it was designed that way. The guy said people wanted more torque, and they could only get more on the high end by starting higher on the low end. Still seems backwards to me and is especially ironic in that this drill comes in the 4-tool set with the impact driver, which gives you all the power you need. As it is, the R86007 now doesn't give you any 'touch' with the slow (screwdriver) setting. Why even include a clutch if the lowest setting is too high? Ridgid is going to be hearing more from me.

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            • #7
              Re: Drill/driver clutch problem

              Originally posted by ChasBreit View Post
              I, too, got the response, both email and on the phone, that's it was designed that way. The guy said people wanted more torque, and they could only get more on the high end by starting higher on the low end. Still seems backwards to me and is especially ironic in that this drill comes in the 4-tool set with the impact driver, which gives you all the power you need. As it is, the R86007 now doesn't give you any 'touch' with the slow (screwdriver) setting. Why even include a clutch if the lowest setting is too high? Ridgid is going to be hearing more from me.
              Chas....I don't know what work you do with your tools. We are a contractor and use our tools every day. Since the inception of Impact drivers we never use drill/drivers for screws except small cabinet screws and we use much lower voltage 9.6V, 10V slow turning drill/drivers for those. The impact drivers are much more efficient and easier on the wrist and elbow for driving screws than drill/drivers. Impact drivers never stick twisting the elbow like a drill/driver. The trigger control on the impact driver is so precise one can control a fairly small screw without worrying about stripping it out. It sounds like you may not have tried the impact driver for screws yet. Try it, I think you will quickly learn to love it like all professional's have
              The drill/driver has been pretty much relegated to drilling. As Ridgid customer service told you they have limited the clutch action in low gear so they don't have to worry about the clutch slipping when drilling in high torque applications like large Forstner bits, hole saws, and augers or steel.
              Good luck....Ray
              Last edited by roadrashray; 11-15-2009, 08:38 PM.

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              • #8
                Re: Drill/driver clutch problem

                Ray I do the same but it is a poor design. I own many clutch /drills, and none do this. The ranges are different, which is good but all work hi/lo and and the TII explanation is weird as on Lo you have more torque not Hi. Are they saying that the max setting in hi is more than in a drill that has working settings in Lo.? Is it that the range is wide enough in Hi? Can work I guess but if it was a design, why not have that in the manual?

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                • #9
                  Re: Drill/driver clutch problem

                  Originally posted by Andrew M. View Post
                  Ray I do the same but it is a poor design. I own many clutch /drills, and none do this. The ranges are different, which is good but all work hi/lo and and the TII explanation is weird as on Lo you have more torque not Hi. Are they saying that the max setting in hi is more than in a drill that has working settings in Lo.? Is it that the range is wide enough in Hi? Can work I guess but if it was a design, why not have that in the manual?
                  You are of course correct. I agree that it seems like a poor design with the explanation given. Must have been designed by the same engineers that approved the old NiCad chargers for use with LI batts. I don't ever remember having a clutch slip issue with previous drill designs. I would always place the "selector ring" in the drill position for drilling or lag bolting which I believe locked up the clutch anyway.
                  I was just stating that with the way we currenty use these tools, it wouldn't seem to be an issue. With rattle guns I am thankful that I will hopefully never again feel that twist on my elbow when a screw catches while driving it with a drill/driver.
                  Thanks......Ray

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                  • #10
                    Re: Drill/driver clutch problem

                    First of all, appreciate the info on the impact driver. I hadn't ever tried one, but it does look like a marvelous alternative for driving screws. On the basic issue, it'll be interesting to see what I get from Home Depot. Prior to receiving what now seems to be the 'real' answer from Ridgid, I phoned their tech people and was told the clutch shouldn't work that way - take it back to HD. I did that, and at least three folks there were involved in writing up the warranty repair sheet, each feeling the clutch was defective. One guy even called Ridgid's 'home office' and related that they agreed. It's been gone now over three weeks, so I'll hopefully know something more, soon.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Drill/driver clutch problem

                      I bought a Makita about 10 years ago, made in Japan, super quality, 12v and have almost never used a drill/clutch since for fastners. They were the first to mkt. that smaller impact. Could not understand why they did not promote that tool more. now everyone makes one. Like Ray said, buy an impact for fastners.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Drill/driver clutch problem

                        Well, I guess this saga is over. Just got my drill/driver back after 6 weeks. The warranty repair guys indicated the motor and a switch were replaced and, you guessed it, the clutch works exactly like it did before. Have learned a lot about power tools from the various inputs, though, so it was probably worth the hassle. Will keep this for drilling and use the impact tool for fasteners.

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