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  • Winterizing

    I recently purchased the Rigid 3000 PSI power washer with the Subaru engine. I only used it for 5-6 hours recently to power wash my house. I live near Boston and am planning on storing my washer for the winter. Beyond changing the oil, emptying the gas tank, etc., do I need to worry about the CAT pump? Should I perform any specific winterization maintenance on this? The manual isn't particularly clear.


  • #2
    Re: Winterizing

    I have a short piece of garden hose with a funnel on it. that I let is suck in RV antifreeze, and fill it water passages with the RV antifreeze. before storing when it may get below freezing,

    or store it in a heated area.
    Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
    attributed to Samuel Johnson
    PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.


    • #3
      Re: Winterizing

      I have the original 3000 psi Ridgid pressure washer (the one with the brass axial cam pump). I winterize with Pump Saver. You can get it in many different brands (BE, Briggs & Stratton, etc.), and at many different stores (HD, Lowe's, etc.)

      No matter the type of pump, if you are going to be storing your pressure washer in an area where it's susceptable to sub-freezing temps, then buy and use this product. A can of it is about 7 bucks, and you should get 3 or 4 years worth of winterizing out of it. It's worth it's weight in gold.

      Also, yes, empty the gas tank, but be sure to run it empty as well (run the engine until it stalls, so that there's no fuel left in the lines). And, while changing the oil is nice, I've found that with small engines it's almost better to leave the oil there for the winter. Take off the spark plug, wipe off any heavy carbon build-up, and spray the combustion chamber with a blast of spray from a can of "fogging oil". Slowly pull the start cord to get the piston and other internals to move around a bit, to let the fogging oil coat everything (a couple of extra blasts). Put the spark plug back in, store for the winter. Then, be sure to change the oil in the springtime, prior to that year's usage.

      It's more beneficial to start the year off with fresh oil, rather than to put in fresh oil for the winter that's only going to sit there and be frozen and thawed and refroze, etc.


      • #4
        Re: Winterizing

        Thanks for the advice, guys. Very helpful. I will be storing it in a place where it will not drop below freezing so I will not about the lines freezing, etc.


        • #5
          Re: Winterizing

          If you don't mind it, I would recommend getting a bottle of Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer and adding some to the gasoline in the tank. Then run the engine with water flowing through the pump but no discharge hose connected and let it run about 10 minutes. Then I like to fill the tank almost full of treated gasoline and not try to empty it out. As for the pump regardless of temperature of the storage area, whenever you aren't going to use it for some time, pump saver is a good way to go. Please follow directions on the can and normally about 1/2 can is enough. Do plan on a little mess, so put some old newspapers under the machine for a day or two so it can drip on them and then trash the newspapers. In the spring take the pressure washer outside and watching aim pull the starter rope a few times to spray out the pump saver.

          Note: By keeping the fuel tank full of treated gasoline you're less likely to have a condensation - moisture build up problem. When you do go to start it up in the spring, adding a table spoon or two of DryGas to the fuel tank is a good idea.
          Attached Files


          • #6
            Re: Winterizing

            Good point, Woussko. It all depends on how you store it, I guess. Where I live, I have no problems with moisture buildup in the gas tank, as the wintertime air is so damn dry for us. And, when I go to refill it and start it in the spring, I open the tank up for a while while I'm doing other things, to let any otherwise possible moisture condensation evaporate. And, funny you mention it, I do add a little shake of the DryGas stuff to my first tank with all my machines, just in case there was a bit of condensation, in the tanks or in the fuel cans.

            To each his/her own. Depends on storage conditions, I guess.

            Everyone has to take their own route - hey, as long as things work right afterwards, and it leads to engine longevity, I guess we must all be trudging down the right path, n'est pas?!