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  • R4511 low power

    I was ripping a fir 2X4 aggressively with the R4511 saw and the motor on the saw bogged down then stopped. I was using the new blade that came with the saw. I never had that happen on my Ridgid TS3650 or Sears 1 1/2 hp saw. Anyone else have this issue??? Any idea what the fix is? I tryed it on a dedicated 120 and then 220 circut.

  • #2
    Re: R4511 low power

    Was it binding up? I had that happen when the wood was damp or wet and it swelled up from the heat generated.
    Charles

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    • #3
      Re: R4511 low power

      Originally posted by Pauls273 View Post
      ... the motor on the saw bogged down then stopped.
      Did this happen before or after you plugged it into the 220?
      "HONK if you've never seen a gun fired from a moving Harley"

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      • #4
        Re: R4511 low power

        The wood was not binding and the first cut was when connected to 220, then 120. It was kiln dry from HD and was in a dry bsmt for several weeks.

        Ty

        Paul

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        • #5
          Re: R4511 low power

          When you connected it to 240V, did you first make the proper wiring changes? I know you probably did, but I have to ask just to cover the bases.

          When wiring for 240V, the motor's red and gray wires are connected together and capped with a wire nut. The motor's black wire is connected to the switch's black wire, and the motor's yellow wire is connected to the switch's white wire.

          For 120V operation, the motor's black wire and red wire are connected together to the switch's black wire, and the motor's yellow wire and gray wire are connected together to the switch's white wire.

          If you hooked up to 240 with the motor still wired for 120, you probably toasted the motor.
          "HONK if you've never seen a gun fired from a moving Harley"

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          • #6
            Re: R4511 low power

            I followed the instructions in the manual and wired it as they recommended. I have done this on sever motors including a Jet dust collector and the TS3650. I am sure it was wired correctly.

            Thanks for checking.

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            • #7
              Re: R4511 low power

              For starters, the stock blade is junk, but this sounds like an alignment issue. It could also be a power supply issue with the circuit....is there a long extension cord?

              This saw should have roughly the same power as the other two saws you mentioned, but the end performance is largely determined by setup and blade selection. It's also possible the wood is too wet, and/or warped or twisted badly and causing binding. Be sure the splitter is aligned with the blade too. It's also worth checking the belts and the pulley alignment.
              Last edited by hewood; 11-29-2009, 09:00 PM.

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              • #8
                Re: R4511 low power

                I figured the blade might be the issue as well a alignment. I took off the splitter checked the blade to the table and fence all is OK. I also looked at he belt and it seems to be riding in the pulleys correctly. I changed to a glue line rip blade and it was slightly better but not as it should be.

                Thanks for your suggestions.

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                • #9
                  Re: R4511 low power

                  I have the same problem.

                  R4511 bogged down and stopped cross-cutting dry pine 2x4. Cuts 1/2" plywood OK. Previous saw, Delta Contractor saw, worked great on same power cord.

                  Did you find any resolution?

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                  • #10
                    Re: R4511 low power

                    Originally posted by Pauls273 View Post
                    I figured the blade might be the issue as well a alignment. I took off the splitter checked the blade to the table and fence all is OK. I also looked at he belt and it seems to be riding in the pulleys correctly. I changed to a glue line rip blade and it was slightly better but not as it should be.

                    Thanks for your suggestions.
                    There are several variations of "Glue Line Rip" blades. For maximum efficiency and minimum resistance to the saw, a flat grind (FTG) 24T thin kerf rip blade is best....Freud LU87R010, Infinity 010-124, DeWalt DW7124PT, CMT 250.024.10, Amana AGE, etc.

                    How's the belt tension? Is it possible that the run capacitor is defective?

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                    • #11
                      Re: R4511 low power

                      I had abysmal results with my 3660 ripping 2x4s. The problems were:

                      1. The 120V circuit was shared with other devices. Turning off other loads on the circuit helped, but did not fix the issue.

                      2. The stock blade was dire. No, worse than that, downright dangerous. It was thinner than the splitter, so the splitter was trying to enlarge the kerf.

                      3. Belt tension was not right. I had not appreciated the aim of the exercise until I read the belt tensioning guide on here. At no point should the motor rest on the end stops, it should be under spring tension at all times. I hadn't grasped that from the manual. Having done the tensioning exercise, it was much better. This isn't as much of an issue with the R4511 though.

                      I bought a new blade, a Freud Diablo 40T, about $40. This single change transformed the results. The saw still bogged on occasion though.

                      I then installed a subpanel and a 240V circuit. It has not bogged since.

                      I also bought an R4511 recently, and from new, I wired it 240, and the stock blade is much thicker than the one with the 3660. Again, no problems at all ripping fir 2x4. The blade does make a difference though, the Diablo is now in the R4511, and that improved what was already a good cut. I can only imagine what a Forrest or the like would do!

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                      • #12
                        Re: R4511 low power

                        No way that blade could be that bad to stop a "true "1.5hp motor. cutting common 2x's. if there is no major setup problems. The freud 24th. TK rip blade is excellent on lower powered saws. I use it on my BT3000 as a jobsite saw all the time ripping 2x"s. Even can rip a 4x in 1 pass if I want. I suspect ther may be a bad manuf. batch of motors, possibly windings, or armature. Running it with the same problems in 240v would eliminate the possible low amp draw. You could test the line with an ampmeter or volt meter , load , no load conditions.
                        My thomas a/c was tripping the breaker, turned out the breaker was bad. This saw motor usually would have tripped the CB if it totally stalled and was properly manuf.
                        Last edited by Andrew M.; 12-09-2009, 08:37 AM.

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                        • #13
                          Re: R4511 low power

                          I had a low power problem, I thought. Standing left of my stock as I fed it through the blade would stop mid cut. I was really bothered that a nice platform like this r4511 would cut so weak. Then I noticed that as I fed the piece my left thigh would hit the power switch and stop the saw. The saw cuts fine in spite of it's operator.

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                          • #14
                            Re: R4511 low power

                            I am having a similar problem with my month old R4511. So far I have only used it with the standard blade, which has a hot spot that was probably caused by my stupidity. The first time I started it up was for a test rip cut of a 2x4. The fence wasn't all the way down on the front rail and the wood quicly began to burn. Since then it has been pretty well aligned and I haven't done anything dumb like I did with that first cut.

                            The other day I was ripping some green douglas fir 2x4s for firewood and the saw stopped, as the motor shut down, very soon after the wood began to smoke. The fence was parallel and I wasn't rushing the feed. I don't recall that well, but the wood may have began to wander from the fence and side pressure applied to hold it against the fence may have been a factor, but I don't think there was enough to cause the blade to bind and the motor to stop.

                            Could this be due to the wood being "green". I imagine another blade may help but want to try and figure out what is going on with the saw or the operator before doing anything. (I will try some old cheap blades I had been using on my bench saw. They are junk, but it will be interesting to see if they do better than the included Ridgid blade.)

                            My extension cord could possible be a factor. I will swap it for a shorter heavy gauge cord.

                            Any suggestions.

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