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  • JP 06101 Jointer adjusments

    Hey fellas I need a little help, well if you ask the right people I need alot of help... I purshaced the JP 06101 jointer about 4 months ago from a cabinet shop that was going out of business, for the sum of $100.00, it looked brand new, I was told he had it for about 6 months.

    My Problem is that after checking blades for proper adjustment my stock still is slightly thinner on the outboard side by .001 to .002 inches, the knives seem to be set proper. Could it be operator error? or could my tables be out of wack (techinal term)...
    Any help would be greatly appriciated.

    I own the TS3650, R4330 (just added still working out snipe problem), Eb4424 sander and countless hand ridig tools, I love all of my rigid tools, most have never given me any trouble

  • #2
    Re: JP 06101 Jointer adjusments

    As you know a jointer is not a thickness planer. With the small error you are getting I wouldn't worry about it. The jointers main purpose is to give flat 90 degree edges.
    SSG, U.S. Army
    Retired
    K.I.S.S., R.T.F.M.

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    • #3
      Re: JP 06101 Jointer adjusments

      Thanks tod, yes I know that the jointer is not a thickness planer. I guess what I was trying to say is, that after i run the surface of a board across my jointer, to go to my thicness planer, the edge away from the fence seems to cut deeper, approx. about 1/64th differance, I have tried zeroing my blades to outfeed table. Do you think the thickness planer will clear up the the differance?

      Thanks, Clint

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      • #4
        Re: JP 06101 Jointer adjusments

        The thickness planer should do the job for you after you joint it.
        SSG, U.S. Army
        Retired
        K.I.S.S., R.T.F.M.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: JP 06101 Jointer adjusments

          You can adjust the set screws on the tables, look at the knife settings and also re check the fence, but 1/64 in wood working is really close enough, the wood itself will change dimension more than that. On a tool itself, such as run-out, you try to get 0.002-.004. You still have to thickness plane the other side, so I am not sure how you are measuring the rough sawn side which is not flat yet anyway.

          On the snipe, the simple fix is a melamine board, 4' or longer placed on the bed, with a cleat to hold it from tracking during cut. You can also try using nickel under the inner table supporting a 4' level and adjust the tables to the level. This will reduce the snipe. Lifting the board at the exit also helps.
          Here is a discussion.

          http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr...lapsed&sb=5&o=

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