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  • Using a 6" or 8" profile blade on a 10" tile saw?

    I just bought the R4010 10" tile saw. I am doing about 400 sq ft of travertein flooring (plus some bathroom walls) and I want to use a 3/8" profile blade to smooth the edges. This comes out to roughly 1100 ft of edging I need to do. I had planned to buy a sintered MK blade because I have read the metal bonded blades last a lot longer and provide a smoother cut then the electroplated profile blades. But they are only offered in a 6" and 8" size.

    Will my 10" R4010 saw be able to use a 6" or 8" profile blade?
    Am I correct in going with the sintered blade or will a electroplated profile blade last 1100 ft just fine?

  • #2
    Re: Using a 6" or 8" profile blade on a 10" tile saw?

    I found this on youtube:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yK0N6C_Ag0

    It shows a guy running a 10" swa with what looks like a 6" profile blade. So I assume this same setup will work on the Ridgid 10" saw.
    Last edited by mrlegoman; 06-08-2010, 11:53 AM.

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    • #3
      Re: Using a 6" or 8" profile blade on a 10" tile saw?

      Update: I got my 10" blade in, it weighs 6.5 lbs and the saw just sounds scary mad. I called Ridgid and one of their tech's said that Ridgid does not recommend ANY profile blades to be used with their saws.

      Thank you Home Depot guy for telling me this saw was perfect for my project.
      Thank you profile blade manufacturer for selling my a $320 blade that you said would work perfectly for my 10" saw.
      And thank you oh so much Ridgid email support for telling me that I'm not allowed to use a 8" profile blade on my 10" saw and then neglecting to inform me that I can't use a profile blade with your product AT ALL.
      Last edited by mrlegoman; 06-24-2010, 09:31 AM.

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      • #4
        Re: Using a 6" or 8" profile blade on a 10" tile saw?

        I can't answer your question,

        but the company is most likely protecting there own selfs, on a liability front,

        I would be more comfortable it the unit was built more like the KM in the video with the separate motor,

        a lot In my thinking would depend on the how the blade fits on the saw arbor, and how much of the arbor was left and how much of the nut, is left when tightener,

        I would think if you do not over tax the saws motor, there would not be a problem,

        my guess is if you called MK and asked the same question, they may say the exact same thing on the profile blade, IF the company has not tested it in that manor an have it tested that way by (my guess an independent laboratory), they will not put there stamp of approval on the machine for a given use, for liability reasons.

        people use diamond blades in skill saws to cut concrete, and most likely if you called skil or any manufacture and asked if there tool is approved or designed for this type of use they would most likely say no, but it is done by many.

        IF you have both, saw and the blade, and the blade fits secularly on the arbor, I would say try it, and if it works as you think it should use it. (but your using it at your own risk),
        Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
        "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
        attributed to Samuel Johnson
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
        PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

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        • #5
          Re: Using a 6" or 8" profile blade on a 10" tile saw?

          WARNING:
          Do not use any attachments or accessories not recommended by the manufacturer of this tool. The use of attachments or accessories not recommended can result in serious personal injury.
          APPLICATIONS
          You may use this tool for the purposes listed below:
          Straight line cutting operations such as cross cutting, mitering, ripping, and beveling

          page 20 from the owners manual.

          the problem is you have a mass of steel 6.5# running on a saw arbor that was designed for a blade less then 1#. running 4000 rpm's. i doubt the bearings in the motor were designed for that type of load.

          as bhd mentioned, a saw with a separate motor is more suited for this type of application.

          i think your best bet is to get back with mk who said it would work fine on your particular saw. ridgid already stated it's not.

          rick.
          phoebe it is

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          • #6
            Re: Using a 6" or 8" profile blade on a 10" tile saw?

            BHD, thanks for the reply. I understand Ridgid covering their butts. But getting the answers from them after I've spent a lot of money on this setup is frustrating.
            I think I can adjust the nut to get full engagement. When I turn the saw on, the whole arm moves from the torque of the heavy blade. My concern right now is trying the blade out, realizing it just isn't going to work, but then stuck with a $320 paper weight that I might be able to sell on ebay for $100.

            My current thoughts are to return the blade while I can and get a hand grinder/polisher like this one:
            http://cgi.ebay.com/Bullnose-Tile-Sa...item483b11fb50

            I didn't want to go this route at first because of my concern with the profile wheel scratching the top surface as it edges. I'm cutting travertine, so it is fairly 'soft'. But maybe this would be the best for taking the edge off the travertine?

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            • #7
              Re: Using a 6" or 8" profile blade on a 10" tile saw?

              Originally posted by PLUMBER RICK View Post
              WARNING:
              Do not use any attachments or accessories not recommended by the manufacturer of this tool. The use of attachments or accessories not recommended can result in serious personal injury.
              APPLICATIONS
              You may use this tool for the purposes listed below:
              Straight line cutting operations such as cross cutting, mitering, ripping, and beveling

              page 20 from the owners manual.

              the problem is you have a mass of steel 6.5# running on a saw arbor that was designed for a blade less then 1#. running 4000 rpm's. i doubt the bearings in the motor were designed for that type of load.

              as bhd mentioned, a saw with a separate motor is more suited for this type of application.

              i think your best bet is to get back with mk who said it would work fine on your particular saw. ridgid already stated it's not.

              rick.
              I guess that is why I'm ticked. I DID contact the manufacturer to see what they recommend and asked them is I could run a 6" or 8" profile blade on their saw. The email tech replied that they do not recommend anything less then a 10". Maybe he misread my question. But I came out of it with the understanding that he was telling me to use a 10" profile blade.
              Since the profile blade is designed to cut and bullnose at the same time, I thought it fit under their 'applications'.
              Your right on about the weight and rpm. As soon as I got the profile blade in the mail, I figured I was going to have issues.

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              • #8
                Re: Using a 6" or 8" profile blade on a 10" tile saw?

                question: can you order in some of the tile in a bull nose configuration,

                NOTE: all I have seen is instructional video on the polishing and edge forming processes,

                but if you want a polished edge, I think one would have to go back in and polish it with the diamond pads, as it shows in the (Ebay add you have posted),

                If it was me and I had 1100 feet of edging to do, I think I would see if I could purchase it pre done or possibly find a shop that is set up for that kind of work and have them do it, and then just cut the back side to fit, as I think if one set it up right the profiling many not be a major trial but to work it down and polish it would take some time,
                this is the company I got my DVDs from when I was considering do some stone counter tops, http://www.defusco.com/ here is a kit they have for the travertine, http://www.defusco.com/Bullnosing-Ki...ned-Travertine (it may be worth there video to see what kind of finish you would end up with),



                you could do what I did and make your own tile saw/block saw,
                (I know it would run your head)
                made it years ago when I needed to do some block work, and made so it could accept a arbor that was 1" and one that would work with the tile blades.
                Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
                ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
                attributed to Samuel Johnson
                ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

                Comment

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