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  • Please help with my 14" BS14002 Band Saw Urgent!

    I have a 14" BS1402 and I'm having problems that are slowly getting worse. First let me tell you that when in use I can visibly see the blade going back and forth. This did'nt happen at first but gradually it is getting worse. Now when I turn it off and it starts to slow the whole saw seemms to wobble. I put a level across both wheels and notice that the top part of the bottom wheel and the bottom part of the top wheel are slightly not touching the level. Also After setting the tracking of the blade I noticed that on the bottom wheel the blade rides way to far forward and no matter how I try to adjust it nothing makes it better. After close inspection and slowly turning the wheel I can hear what sounds like a high spot brush against the wheel brush. So basically I can't tell if I have a bad tire, wheel, saw? or anything, I am new to the bandsaw and am astonished at how well the need to be set up. Sadly I am having a hard time finding explanations on these problems I'm having so now that I've found you guys I hope to god someone can help.

    I cut a lot of wood. Some of which is extremely hard ie: a lot of desert iron wood and frankly I can't afford for my saw to go down on me. If somebody could help me get to the bottom of this I would be very greatful. I'm under a killer deadline right now in order to keep a contract so the pressure is on. I'm afraid to keep pushing it because I dont want to do irreparable damage.

  • #2
    Re: Please help with my 14" BS14002 Band Saw Urgent!

    is some thing moving on the shaft upper or lower, or a bearing going,

    I do not have this saw, but most saws the bottom blade is basically non adjustable except on the drive shaft, and the top should have the tension system and a tilt for blade tracking, the top should be in line with the bottom wheel, (the bottom wheel may be the only one that can move in or out, as the top may just be on the tension and tilt (tracking) system,

    there should be guide block on the edges of the blade guides and a rear bearing the blade should be set to track on the wheels with the tracking device, then bring up the rear, of the blade, the guide bearings and also the guide blocks should be behind the set of the blade, and the guide bearings brought up to about a sheet of paper from touching the blade with out a load,

    remember there is a guide under the table as well, that need to properly adjusted as well,

    reread the manual and check out the adjustments, and alignments and see if there is any adjustments you can make and improve the unit,
    http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/75F0D67...02_292_eng.pdf
    Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
    attributed to Samuel Johnson
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Please help with my 14" BS14002 Band Saw Urgent!

      Yea the top wheel has the tension and tracking adjustments, the bottom seems to be stationary. I've spoken to and read enough to know that I have my guide blocks and bearings set up properly. My blade is tracking fine on the top wheel but for some reason no matter what I do I cannot get it in the middle of the bottom. I believe I could possibly have a bad tire but I cant find anything that describes the symptoms of a bad tire, or even a wheel for that fact. Its like I said earlier, when I rotate the bottom wheel I can hear the tire brush hitting a high part every time around. I also saw that they sell a tire glue or apoxy, is this needed on every wheel tire combo because I know for a fact mine does'nt.

      This is what I get for having to buy a used one. I even went to my local specialty wood shop and took all the notes on what to look for to make sure it was in working condition and it passed all the tests. It even still cuts fine but I know its not supposed to wobble the way it does. I fear I am on the brink of a catostrophic failure.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Please help with my 14" BS14002 Band Saw Urgent!

        I hate to say this but some of the reviews on the ridgid band saw are not the best, if you do some searches on this fourm others have had some issues on the percision and the lower wheel as well, and some vibrations that seem to machine inherant,

        here is the search on "bs1400"
        http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sea...archid=3256009

        search on BANDSAW TUNE UP,
        http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sea...archid=3256014
        a thread on tires,
        http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...ghlight=bs1400
        http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...ighlight=14002

        here is a post on some one who fine tuned his saw considerably,
        http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...ighlight=14002

        I hope something helps, and or some one can answer you directly,
        Last edited by BHD; 09-28-2010, 09:23 AM.
        Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
        "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
        attributed to Samuel Johnson
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
        PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Please help with my 14" BS14002 Band Saw Urgent!

          Originally posted by Bazzle View Post
          Yea the top wheel has the tension and tracking adjustments, the bottom seems to be stationary. I've spoken to and read enough to know that I have my guide blocks and bearings set up properly. My blade is tracking fine on the top wheel but for some reason no matter what I do I cannot get it in the middle of the bottom. I believe I could possibly have a bad tire but I cant find anything that describes the symptoms of a bad tire, or even a wheel for that fact. Its like I said earlier, when I rotate the bottom wheel I can hear the tire brush hitting a high part every time around. I also saw that they sell a tire glue or apoxy, is this needed on every wheel tire combo because I know for a fact mine does'nt.

          This is what I get for having to buy a used one. I even went to my local specialty wood shop and took all the notes on what to look for to make sure it was in working condition and it passed all the tests. It even still cuts fine but I know its not supposed to wobble the way it does. I fear I am on the brink of a catostrophic failure.

          Do you have the stock rubber tires on there? If so, that should be your first fix. Those tires suck. Most bandsaw tires will have a slight bump where the seam is located. Not a thing to be concerned about, but that would hit the wheel brush. Honestly, your wheel brush should have constant contact with your tires, to keep them clean.


          Here is a link to a lenghty write-up I did about the BS1400, complete with required (IMO) and suggested upgrades / fixes. Scroll down to reply #3.

          http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...hlight=bandsaw

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Please help with my 14" BS14002 Band Saw Urgent!

            Originally posted by Bazzle View Post
            I have a 14" BS1402 and I'm having problems that are slowly getting worse. First let me tell you that when in use I can visibly see the blade going back and forth. This did'nt happen at first but gradually it is getting worse. Now when I turn it off and it starts to slow the whole saw seemms to wobble. I put a level across both wheels and notice that the top part of the bottom wheel and the bottom part of the top wheel are slightly not touching the level. Also After setting the tracking of the blade I noticed that on the bottom wheel the blade rides way to far forward and no matter how I try to adjust it nothing makes it better. After close inspection and slowly turning the wheel I can hear what sounds like a high spot brush against the wheel brush. So basically I can't tell if I have a bad tire, wheel, saw? or anything, I am new to the bandsaw and am astonished at how well the need to be set up. Sadly I am having a hard time finding explanations on these problems I'm having so now that I've found you guys I hope to god someone can help.

            I cut a lot of wood. Some of which is extremely hard ie: a lot of desert iron wood and frankly I can't afford for my saw to go down on me. If somebody could help me get to the bottom of this I would be very greatful. I'm under a killer deadline right now in order to keep a contract so the pressure is on. I'm afraid to keep pushing it because I dont want to do irreparable damage.


            Below is a review I wrote on the saw some months ago. Frankly, I think you have a defective part in there somewhere; perhaps a bearing.

            Note: while this review is of the BS1400 model, the owner's manual calls it the BS14002. I do not know if the addition of the number 2 signifies an upgrade or is just the full number not listed correctly in the catalog. The earlier "gray" version might have been the plain, old BS1400. In any case, the one being reviewed here is the orange version seen easily at any Home Depot store, usually selling for about $350.

            OK, this is a pretty basic band saw in the old style. It came with the standard metal guide blocks and the usual, right-angle positioned bearing behind the blade. The frame is cast iron, as is the work table. The wheels appear to be cast (not machined) iron, but they seem decently round, and the offset, 3/4-HP induction motor is attached to the lower wheel by means of an automotive type V-belt, shielded by a metal housing. The blade guard and upper guide assembly can be raised or lowered for a maximum cut of 6 inches by means of a single release knob. Ridgid offers a 6-inch extender for those who want the saw to resaw really large boards.

            The saw can be wired for either 120- or 240-volt operation. It came configured for the former, and that is where I left things. The manual offers rewireing instructions for a 240-volt hookup. The manual itself is better written than some of the other tool manuals I have seen.

            The saw comes with a stand that is decently stiff, with an additional metal sheet under the top surface to stiffen it up a bit. The motor is rubber mounted. Assembling the stand and saw was a relative snap.

            I do most of my woodworking out on a deck adjacent to my small shop (I am in north Florida, where this is possible 9 months of the year, with the summer months being just too hot), so I built a wooden platform under the stand, bolted them together, and installed 3-inch pivoting wheels on the bottom. This allows me to move the 200 pound assembly easily onto the deck.

            OK, now let's get down to the details.

            First, the saw vibrated too much out of the box. I discovered that the main offenders were the V-belt and the cast wheels. The belt was, well, junk, with a twist to it and too damned much stiffness. I went to an automotive parts shop and had the clerk (you need a clerk with a good attitude) go into the back and locate a flexible, segmented belt the same length. That solved much of the saw's vibration problem. I have the belt's stock/size number written down somewhere if anybody wants it.

            I also installed little clip-on weights to each wheel. To do this accurately you need to remove the blade and V-belt and let gravity swing the wheels down to where the heavy sections are at the bottom. (This operation also allowed one to assess the condition of the wheel bearings.) You then clip the weight on at the top and check again to see if gravity pulls the wheels in any direction after releasing them at different positions. If they do not move they are balanced enough. If things are still off you need larger weights, a second weight, or a smaller weight. I was lucky, and I hit the mark on the first try. This modification solved nearly all of the remaining vibration problem.

            I topped off the anti-vibration mods by solidly mounting the motor. Yep, I removed the rubber mounts (which looked like afterthought jokes) and replaced them with a small sheet of properly drilled out 3/4-inch MDF. I also added additional stiffness to the stand's mounting plate by installing an additional and larger sheet of drilled-oout 3/4-inch MDF under the metal surface. Doing this mandated longer mounting screws and large washers below, needless to say. This series of modifications allowed the saw to be butter smooth in its operation. The rubber belts already installed on the wheels were no problem, although I did purchase two spares for future use.

            I also replaced the metal guide blocks with some fiber-material "cool blocks" that Ridgid was offering for sale at the time via their phone-order service. In addition, I removed the lower blade guard from the unit, because it appeared to not be needed at all and mainly functioned as a barrier to easily adjusting the lower guide blocks and bearing.

            While side-mounted rubbing blocks seem outdated compared to newer-design saws that use bearings in those locations, I believe that the blocks might have one advantage over bearings: they scrape the blade clean as it runs. Bearings might just compress built-up sludge on the blade surface as it runs and gradually pinch it too hard. This is just a theory, of course, with some woods possibly causing more problems than others.

            The upper and lower sections of the saw's cast-iron frame are held together by a large nut and bolt, plus large washers. There was space at that junction point for an additional smaller nut and bolt (and rectangular washers that I cut myself), and I installed them to make damned sure that the two sections locked together with little chance of the cast iron being overstressed.

            Finally, I expanded the size of the table by adding a wooden frame made out of 2x4 sections around its back edge, right-side, and front edge. The left-side edge got a narrower piece of wood so that the table could still tilt a few degrees in that direction. This wooden frame around the cast-iron table is screwed together and is held in place by additional screws running into the pre-drilled holes in the front and back of the table. The wooden section is kept in cosmetic shape by regular applications of lemon oil. The notch for blade removal in the cast-iron table is continued through the wooden extension section on the right side, with the groove in the wooden pieces held together with a stiff, quick-release crosspiece below. The overall table is now 20 x 18 inches in size, with lines scribed into the wooden extensions to help keep things aligned when doing freehand or fence cuts.

            Another review I read about the saw said that the optional fence Ridgid offers is not all that good. This is one reason I was not afraid to do the wooden extension modification, since doing it would make it impossible to use the Ridgid fence. I made a fence of my own out of lumber, and if I need a fence I simply hold it in place with clamps, making sure that it is parallel to the lines scribed into the wooden extension sections. Most of my cutting is done freehand, however.

            The wooden table expansion does two things. First, it offers a larger work surface. Second, it keeps the edge of the cast-iron table from marring any work pieces.

            I removed the 3/8 inch blade that came with the saw and replaced it with a 1/2 incher for better straight-line cutting. For curved cuts that do not involve workpieces that are too large I use a small Ryobi 9-inch model with a 1/4-inch blade. Some of the mods I did on the larger Ridgid model were also done on the smaller Ryobi unit: wood-edged table enlarging and wheel balancing. The little Ryobi is a good saw for craftsman type jobs.

            Overall, I think the 14-inch, Ridigid BS14002 model is a good saw, particularly for the $350 that I paid. Yes, I had to work on it a bit to get it up to snuff, but the result is an item that I can use for decently precise work.

            Howard Ferstler

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