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Have you found a solution for the problem with installing & using dado knives?
Any response on topic (non-canned response) from RidGid Customer Service?
I'm an inch away from buying this saw tomorrow morning [ my old cheapy saw is on the way out and I've got some cabinet plywood I need to rip neatly & build things with ].
Upon finding this thread I now have some concerns that, in the longer run, this saw will not go the extra mile; when I want to start cutting dados rabbets etc for bigger cabinet work etc. (which I do with a small router table)
It's a good saw. I wouldn't let the problem with the riving knife stop me from buying it. You wouldn't have the knife installed when you dado anyway and it's just one more step to removing two cap screws to get the mount off.
You can use an 8" dado set just flip the orange lever up. It is only there to clamp the riving knife/splitter in the saw which you don't use for dado cuts anyways. So customer service was exactly right when they said to remove the splitter. You don't have to remove the whole assembly. The lever won't vibrate down into the blades it is held in the upright position by the cam mechanism that locks the splitter in place. As far as the 1.5 " dado limitation why would you need to dado more than that?
Last edited by lvmedic3214; 03-06-2011, 05:26 AM.
Reason: Added content
You should be able to use either a 6" or an 8" dado set on the 4512 with no problems.
What you describe as "release switch" is actually the release lever for the riving/kerf knife. You will need to remove that, along with blade guard and anti-kicknack pawls, before you install your dado stack. In order to remove the riving/kerf knife, just set the lever to the up position, tilt the knife to the right and pull it all the way up. Leave the release lever in the up position and install your dado stack.
Two things to remember:
1) You won't be able to use your factory throat plate with a dado set. I recommend using one. You can make your own (which is what I did), or order one from Ridgid.
2) Max dado depth on the 4512 is 1 1/2". If you try to set it any deeper than that, the riving/kerf lever will push through the throat plate.
See page 43 of your owner's manual for all the details. If you don't have the manual, let me know. I can email you a scan of the relevant page in the manual.
I think you're right about the washer. There's plenty of room on the arbor so that's not a problem with using the dado blade. The problem is that the release switch won't come down because it's right on top of the blade. I'm only trying to make a 1/2" dado cut so I don't have that many blades on there.
That's why I was thinking that I wouldn't have that problem with a 6" blade.
Hi, found your information very helpful. Can you tell me where I can get a dado throat plate for the R4512?
I've done some research on these and I think its better, faster and cheaper to just make one. They don't seem to hard to make...but I haven't made one yet lol. I will this week though as I just bought a dado set last night so I've really been reading this thread.
The problem is that the current plate is 15 inches long, 3.5 inches wide and .1 thick.
Not sure if making one that thin will hold up.
Any other thoughts?
I made several out of 1/2" plywood. Cut to shape using the original as the pattern, then use your router table to rabbet around the edge about 1/2" in. I played with this until I had the depth close to the thickness of the metal insert. Makes it unnecessary to re-level each one.
I then manually routed in a little more where the wood would hit protrusions. Need to secure the blank well for this. Then I used a 8" blade (7 1/4" would probably work too) to crank up through for the initial cut for the slot (the 10" blade will not allow you to seat the insert until a slot is started).
When you need to use a dado blade, set up your thickness as you usually do then crank it up through the insert until you get the appropriate height + a little more for clearance. Since the dado blade is max of 8", you should have no trouble setting the insert in place.
Drill a finger hole at the same position as the metal insert to help get the thing out.
One other step I took was to add (glue) a strip to the underside at the rear that hooks below the top of the saw. Helps keep it in place.
I made several and shouldn't have to repeat this for some time.
Read page 42 of the Operator's manual. There is an instruction to place the locking lever in the unlocked position and no further indication that the lever is to be placed in the locked position. I have confirmed this interpretation with Rigid Support.
I was not able to raise a 6" dado stack through the throat plate unless I move the riving knife locking lever to the LOCKED position. In fact I broke the little tab off of my new Leecraft throat plate by raising the dado stack through the plate for the first time (with clamps over the plate) because the locking lever was up (in the UNlocked position)