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Torque settings

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  • Torque settings

    I have a question about the torque settings on my 18V drill/driver.

    Is there any place where I can find out what the nominal design specs are for these values? I do know from other posts that the spec for setting number 1 on low speed is 75 in-lb. How about the rest of them?

    I guess it's just my engineer's mindset, but if I knew those values I'd have a much better idea of what setting to choose.

    A simple table is all I'm really asking for.

  • #2
    Re: Torque settings

    The reality is those settings don't equate to a torque setting per say. The clutch design merely stops the drilling based on friction and the setting the clutch is at and is unique and different to every manufacture and to every drill, even the same model drills will not torque down the same.


    Let's say our clutch is set to #14. We screw in a 2" course drywall screw into pine. At the #14 setting the screw head goes into the wood flush before the clutch engages. Taking the same size drywall screw and screwing it into a more dense wood like Teak or Mahogany you may only get the screw in 1/2" before the clutch engages. Other factors are batteries. Are they new, been cycled a couple of hundred times, etc...

    For 99% of the people who own clutch assisted drills they have no clue how to really use them. Over time I have figured out what settings our Bosch Brutes need to be at to screw drywall screws, to get them to dimple, without a dimple attachment.

    If you look up your question in Google you will find that nobody had an answer to your question.


    • #3
      Re: Torque settings

      some will depend on the RPM of what the drill is being ran at.

      for the most part the only way I would know how to test it would be run a screw into some thing soft, and the set so it will ratchet or slip on the clutch, take a small torque wrench and put a matching bit on it and see what it take to turn the screw, and then do it on some thing harder, and test again recording the torque it takes, and number setting, and record, you may be able to get an idea of your drill and guide on the settings, then guess on the settings missed, I would most likely use a beam type wrench to test with, and use Inch pounds, (they have machines that will do the same but not a DIY affordable).

      I suppose one could rig up some type of weight arm and some type of clutch that one could increase the torque on the arm until it was slipping and one could either put weight the arm or have it push on a scale but the ratcheting effect would make it hard to read, now a weight would work but one would need some type of slip or clutch IMO, to feed it so the torque could be added to the arm slowly, (may be some type of friction disk that one would just push the drill into to transfer the power to the torque arm).
      Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
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      • #4
        Re: Torque settings

        BHD's plan is a good one for occasional or home use. Sometimes when you can't get a torque wrench on a fastener you can use the turn-of-the-nut method which involves marking the nut or bolt head and the counting the number of flats required to torque an adjacent fastener and then applying that number of turns with a wrench to the fastener where the torque wrench will not fit. That won't work for a drill/driver I know so BHD's method I think would work best.

        On applications where torque is critical you use a torque tester to check each and every setting of a calibrated torque wrench right before you use it to torque a fastener, then test the torque wrench again when you are done to be sure it is still calibrated. Kinda like the live-dead-live check used for electrical testers.

        Also never leave a torque wrench set to a value higher than 20% of its range when not in use (ie don't store a 0-100 lb/ft wrench at 85 lb/ft) as this will affect accuracy. If I was carrying a bunch of tools to a job and one was a torque wrench and I dropped it well it has to go back to the cal lab and get checked. Torque wrenches are normally cal'd in one direction only. It may be relatively accurate in the opposing direction, but its not calibrated in that direction so you can't take measurements with it. Temperature, thread lubricant (if used), thread condition, ANSI fit tolerances, bolt material and grade, they all affect torque or tensioning values.
        "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006


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