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Need info for ripping and framing blades

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  • Need info for ripping and framing blades

    Hello forum goers,

    My name is Steven and I am a design student in Charlotte north Carolina. I am currently working on a project to market a certain type of ripping and framing blades for a circular saw. In particular, 7-1/4", 24t, micro-grain carbide tip. I need information on what professionals like yourselves look for in a ripping and framing blade. Also if you could include your job title, age and sex that would be much appreciated.

    Thanks so much!
    -Steven

  • #2
    Re: Need info for ripping and framing blades

    when I was framing up a house or building, I usually bought what I thought were deals at the time, a low cost blade that could take a lot of abuse, I tried some of the thin kerfed and special tooth designs that were to cut the power requirements, but since I used a worm drive saw, survivability and cost was the two biggest factors I looked for, at the time the ones I liked were the block toothed carbide that could cut nails and concrete that had been left on boards that may have been used for forms, and could go for a good wile, usually until there were few teeth left,

    I usually bought a 10 pack of what was called a "Contractors Saw Blade". and I would keep a few high tooth count blades for plywood, or sheet goods,

    now this was mostly when the carbide blades were coming out and for about 10 to 15 years after, before I had my own sharpening equipment for steel blades, since than I have done nearly no framing for hire,

    I remember trying the piranha blades that had that thin curved tooth, nice blade and took very little power to operate, (was a good shop blade, but there was much better shop blades out there), but even a hard knot would do a tooth in, and it was nearly destroyed if it hit a nail or cement crust, on a board,

    yes one more or less needs a similar blade for cordless saw, as there gut less,

    now for fine work I try to get the best blade that is out there for the job, and keep all dirt away from the shop. but I am the only one using it, as well.

    do not know if what I said helps any or not. (the joke on the job site was "if it is Gorilla proof, it may last a few days").
    Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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    attributed to Samuel Johnson
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    PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

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    • #3
      Re: Need info for ripping and framing blades

      I do some light framing and demo, have done kitchen and bath remodels, and lots of dry rot repair. I have used the cheap Oldham blades and discovered that they are ok but seem slower than the more expensive blades, but are good for guys who ruin blades on a daily basis or nasty demo work. I coughed up the money for a Diablo blade for my Skilsaw, oh my word what a significant difference. I do not make it a point to go cutting nails or hit concrete, I enjoy my blades being sharp. The thin kerf has not caused me any issues due to deflection that I am aware of, but if it were an issue I would use a normal width blade providing it still cut as well as the Diablo. The coating gives me the illusion of an easier cut because the wood cannot grab the blade as easily.. (my opinion)

      What do I look for in a blade? Ease of cutting, how clean it cuts the material, and how long it still seems sharp. For cutting plywood, I also look for how well the blade does not tear out the wood on the topside. I always try to make sure that the finish side is facing down to avoid these issues, but sometimes you have to cut on the finish side of the wood.

      My opinion is that a good blade needs to be durable,inexpensive, cut well, not tear out the material, and resist binding.

      About me: Self Employed, almost Licensed General Contractor, Male, 36.
      Last edited by masterbeavis; 01-31-2012, 10:07 PM.
      We don't have preventative maintenance around here, we have CRISIS MANAGEMENT!

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      • #4
        Re: Need info for ripping and framing blades

        I picked up a two pack of Freud framing blades this year and just love them. Thin kerf and stay sharp, be it 5/4 trim board, plywood or beams. I am hooked. I think they are 27 tooth. Not a regular contractor but always building or remodeling for 40 years.
        Charles

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