Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.

ridgid 14" band saw gloat

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • ridgid 14" band saw gloat

    i haven't put this is tool deals section because they were supposedly all gone. but i'm strolling around the hawthorne, ny HD this morning and in an overhead i spy a NIB ridgid BS. check w/ CS and there's none on hand and the price is $.01. store manager is called, saw is pointed out and he solemnly confirms he can't sell it for $.01. "how much, then" says I. he proffers $50, i offer $30 and we settle on $40. not sure what i'm going to do with it yet. pays to look up when @ your local HD
    Attached Files
    there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

  • #2
    Re: ridgid 14" band saw gloat

    Good find and an awsome price. Wish i could come across deals like that.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: ridgid 14" band saw gloat

      I've run across lots of deals like that, people wonder if I really am lying and I stole whatever I am bragging about getting so darn cheap. The Tool Dept managers at the two stores I shop at see me coming and have their mental lists ready to tell me whether or not they have what I am looking for. Sweet deals to be had.

      Bought this a month ago for $50. It was the old display.
      We don't have preventative maintenance around here, we have CRISIS MANAGEMENT!

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: ridgid 14" band saw gloat

        Awesome find. Good band saw for this amazing price. Now, this is worth the gloat.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: ridgid 14" band saw gloat

          Originally posted by Camero68
          You may want to write a review for this awesome band saw at some band saw review sites. You can be of help to people looking for a suitable machine for them.
          given that the bs1400 is/was probably the weakest link in ridgid's stationary power tool arsenal, and that i sold the BS before i ever opened the box, i'll refrain from attempting such a review. and if you will search this and other forums for threads on the 1400, you'll quickly find that the term "awesome" is almost never used in conjunction with the 1400.
          there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: ridgid 14" band saw gloat

            Originally posted by FINER9998 View Post
            given that the bs1400 is/was probably the weakest link in ridgid's stationary power tool arsenal, and that i sold the BS before i ever opened the box, i'll refrain from attempting such a review. and if you will search this and other forums for threads on the 1400, you'll quickly find that the term "awesome" is almost never used in conjunction with the 1400.
            I am not a fan of this bs either, but for the price you got i would do something with it like convert it to a metal cutting saw or make a portable bandsaw mill out of it.
            ---------------
            Light is faster than sound. That's why some people seem really bright until you hear them speak.
            ---------------
            “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
            ---------
            "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
            ---------
            sigpic http://www.helmetstohardhats.com/

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: ridgid 14" band saw gloat

              Originally posted by FINER9998 View Post
              given that the bs1400 is/was probably the weakest link in ridgid's stationary power tool arsenal, and that i sold the BS before i ever opened the box, i'll refrain from attempting such a review. and if you will search this and other forums for threads on the 1400, you'll quickly find that the term "awesome" is almost never used in conjunction with the 1400.
              OK, this is a pretty basic band saw in the old style, and it certainly does have limitations, but those can be dealt with.

              Mine came with the standard metal guide blocks and the usual, right-angle positioned bearing behind the blade. The frame is cast iron, as is the work table. The wheels appear to be cast (not machined) iron, but they seem decently round, and the offset, 3/4-HP induction motor is attached to the lower wheel by means of an automotive type V-belt, shielded by a metal housing. The blade guard and upper guide assembly can be raised or lowered for a maximum cut of 6 inches by means of a single release knob. Ridgid offers a 6-inch extender for those who want the saw to resaw really large boards.

              The saw can be wired for either 120- or 240-volt operation. It came configured for the former, and that is where I left things. The manual offers rewireing instructions for a 240-volt hookup. The manual itself is better written than some of the other tool manuals I have seen.

              The saw comes with a stand that is decently stiff, with an additional metal sheet under the top surface to stiffen it up a bit. The motor is rubber mounted. Assembling the stand and saw was a relative snap.

              I do most of my woodworking out on a deck adjacent to my small shop (I am in north Florida, where this is possible 9 months of the year, with the summer months being just too hot), so I built a wooden platform under the stand, bolted them together, and installed 3-inch pivoting wheels on the bottom. This allows me to move the 200 pound assembly easily onto the deck.

              OK, now let's get down to the details.

              First, the saw vibrated too much out of the box. I discovered that the main offenders were the V-belt and the cast wheels. The belt was, well, junk, with a twist to it and too damned much stiffness. I went to an automotive parts shop and had the clerk (you need a clerk with a good attitude) go into the back and locate a flexible, segmented belt the same length. That solved much of the saw's vibration problem. I have the belt's stock/size number written down somewhere if anybody wants it.

              I also installed little clip-on weights to each wheel. To do this accurately you need to remove the blade and V-belt and let gravity swing the wheels down to where the heavy sections are at the bottom. (This operation also allowed one to assess the condition of the wheel bearings.) You then clip the weight on at the top and check again to see if gravity pulls the wheels in any direction after releasing them at different positions. If they do not move they are balanced enough. If things are still off you need larger weights, a second weight, or a smaller weight. I was lucky, and I hit the mark on the first try. This modification solved nearly all of the remaining vibration problem.

              I topped off the anti-vibration mods by solidly mounting the motor. Yep, I removed the rubber mounts (which looked like afterthought jokes) and replaced them with a small sheet of properly drilled out 3/4-inch MDF. I also added additional stiffness to the stand's mounting plate by installing an additional and larger sheet of drilled-oout 3/4-inch MDF under the metal surface. Doing this mandated longer mounting screws and large washers below, needless to say. This series of modifications allowed the saw to be butter smooth in its operation. The rubber belts already installed on the wheels were no problem, although I did purchase two spares for future use.

              I also replaced the metal guide blocks with some fiber-material "cool blocks" that Ridgid was offering for sale at the time via their phone-order service. In addition, I removed the lower blade guard from the unit, because it appeared to not be needed at all and mainly functioned as a barrier to easily adjusting the lower guide blocks and bearing.

              While side-mounted rubbing blocks seem outdated compared to newer-design saws that use bearings in those locations, I believe that the blocks might have one advantage over bearings: they scrape the blade clean as it runs. Bearings might just compress built-up sludge on the blade surface as it runs and gradually pinch it too hard. This is just a theory, of course, with some woods possibly causing more problems than others.

              The upper and lower sections of the saw's cast-iron frame are held together by a large nut and bolt, plus large washers. There was space at that junction point for an additional smaller nut and bolt (and rectangular washers that I cut myself), and I installed them to make damned sure that the two sections locked together with little chance of the cast iron being overstressed.

              Finally, I expanded the size of the table by adding a wooden frame made out of 2x4 sections around its back edge, right-side, and front edge. The left-side edge got a narrower piece of wood so that the table could still tilt a few degrees in that direction. This wooden frame around the cast-iron table is screwed together and is held in place by additional screws running into the pre-drilled holes in the front and back of the table. The wooden section is kept in cosmetic shape by regular applications of lemon oil. The notch for blade removal in the cast-iron table is continued through the wooden extension section on the right side, with the groove in the wooden pieces held together with a stiff, quick-release crosspiece below. The overall table is now 20 x 18 inches in size, with lines scribed into the wooden extensions to help keep things aligned when doing freehand or fence cuts.

              Another review I read about the saw said that the optional fence Ridgid offers is not all that good. This is one reason I was not afraid to do the wooden extension modification, since doing it would make it impossible to use the Ridgid fence. I made a fence of my own out of lumber, and if I need a fence I simply hold it in place with clamps, making sure that it is parallel to the lines scribed into the wooden extension sections. Most of my cutting is done freehand, however.

              The wooden table expansion does two things. First, it offers a larger work surface. Second, it keeps the edge of the cast-iron table from marring any work pieces.

              I removed the 3/8 inch blade that came with the saw and replaced it with a 1/2 incher for better straight-line cutting. For curved cuts that do not involve workpieces that are too large I use a small Ryobi 9-inch model with a 1/4-inch blade. Some of the mods I did on the larger Ridgid model were also done on the smaller Ryobi unit: wood-edged table enlarging and wheel balancing. The little Ryobi is a good saw for craftsman type jobs.

              One final thing I did was to replace all of the rubber-covered knobs with ones I made out of wood. I like the look better than those stock jobs.

              Overall, I think the 14-inch, Ridigid BS14002 model is a good saw, particularly for the $350 that I paid, and it certainly was a super bargain for the man who got the one on this thread. Yes, I had to work on it a bit to get it up to snuff, but the result is an item that I can use for decently precise work.

              Howard Ferstler
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: ridgid 14" band saw gloat

                Well, I have to agree on this saw being a bargain at $40. I guess mine was a super size bargain at 1¢ . I got real lucky and mine was very well balanced right out of the box. I always keep my eye out for another in the overhead storage in all HD's.

                Comment

                Working...
                X