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Modifying the R4510 jobsite saw

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  • Modifying the R4510 jobsite saw

    I have owned this small jobsite saw for a while and even posted a review of it on this site a while back that included the installation of an outfeed extension on the backside of the saw to make it easier to deal with long-board ripping jobs. I also posted a description of how I made a zero clearance throat plate for the tool.

    Anyway, those of you who own this saw and use it regularly may notice that the plastic fitting for dust collection is a tad flimsy. It is held to the cast aluminum, interior blade shield underneath by a single screw inserted through a hole in the dust exit of the blade guard and threaded to the plastic exit port. The fitting easily wobbles with even a slight amount of pressure from any external connection to a dust extractor.

    I have never had a failure with this, but I still do not like the visibly flimsy behavior of the exit vent when hooked up to my dust blower. (I work on a deck adjacent to my shop much of the time and blow dust into my natural wooded yard or onto a tarp if the dust production looks to be major.) My much lower cost Ryobi BTS-20 jobsite saw also has a dust port, and it is considerably more rigid than the one on the Ridgid (pun intended).

    So, I did a modification today. I removed the pop-off plastic shield cover over the aluminum shield, removed the screw, removed the plastic vent tube, and drilled through the tube housing and also through the plastic cover. I then re-installed the plastic vent tube, ran a screw up through the bottom (see photo number 1), reinstalled the plastic housing cover (see photo 2), and secured the result with a large washer and wing nut (see photo 3). This stabilized the plastic exit port and made me feel a lot better about the job of dust extracting. True, the screw now sits in the dust-exit stream, but, hey, it also acts like a barrier to keep large pieces out of the dust-collector fan and actually blocks very little of the wind flow.

    If I need to remove the pop-off plastic cover I first remove the wing nut and washer and then remove the cover to clean out the blade area.

    Howard Ferstler
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Re: Modifying the R4510 jobsite saw

    Hi Howard.

    I also own a R4510 (which I have adding a fold-down side extension to) and am very interested in seeing what you did for the outfeed extension, however, I can't seem to find it on the site...would you mind posting it again?



    • #3
      Re: Modifying the R4510 jobsite saw

      Rather than hunt up the original (I do not have it in my own files, and the only place it might be is somewhere in the Ridgid archives), I will just repost a couple of the photos and a few comments.

      The photos themselves pretty much explain how things were done. I used heavy thick washers on the insides to spread the strain on the plastic chassis. Also, the arms are made of wood, carefully cut to handle the side angle of the plastic surfaces. I originally had just a thick hickory dowel for the cross piece, but then found an old torchiere lamp shaft that I sanded clean and cut down to fit over the dowel. Screws hold the arms to the dowel, and the lamp shaft is held in place simply by the squeeze of the arms on the closely cut dowel/shaft ends.

      Attached Files