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4510 tablesaw

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  • 4510 tablesaw

    i have seen many of these saws that are being resold on the internet where they say that they do not power on but they look like they have very little use. does anyone have any insight into these saws

  • #2
    Re: 4510 tablesaw

    They're probably all the ones that have alignment issues and have the cord cut by the repair shop to designate 'crap saw'.
    ~~

    ... it was plumbed by Ray Charles and his helper Stevie Wonder

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    • #3
      Re: 4510 tablesaw

      Hmmm I have one of these saws, very little use and it just died on me......took the switch out after reading a few posts and the neutral looks baked and the switch housing looks somewhat melted....even though I have the fence dialed in very square (took quite some time) I am having issues ripping wider plywood panels with the saw.....having to push very hard to rip cuts thru the saw (brand new freud combo blade)......have not checked the blade being parallel to the mitre slots yet....is this the issue you are talking about...... I thought maybe it was the riving knife which I have also spent a lot of time aligning....
      Greg.

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      • #4
        Re: 4510 tablesaw

        I have had mine for some time and run it hard at times, occasionally using it to cut 3/4 inch thick, 3.5 inch wide pine or hardened, aged-wood boards right down the middle into thinner planks. This means cranking the blade all the way up and using a feather clamp to keep the board tight against the fence as I work it through with a thin push stick.

        The saw really churns when I do this, but loses little speed, and it does the work and has never missed a beat. The motor in this saw, as best I can tell, is identical to the one in the Ridgid 1290 sliding miter saw. At least it looks pretty much the same and uses identical brushes. It is a strong motor, with a 15-amp rating that is just that.

        My highly modified unit (I have discussed and illustrated some of the mods on this site in the past, as I recall) actually has TWO on/off switches. I do small-scale cutting much of the time, building artistic collage wall hangings from small pieces of wood that are left over from furniture-building projects I did in the past or recently purchased or taken from old weathered-wood items like fences and picnic tables and made into interesting designs. (Currently, five local art galleries are exhibiting my works.) Consequently, work from different angles, and from the right or left side, and need to reach a power switch quickly sometimes. (For the really risky stuff I usually use my band saw, however.)

        The switch (a 20-amp-rated slap switch I got from Grizzly) was easy to install after I cut the wire on the underside of the chassis and ran a shunt wire from the hot input lead to the right side of the saw chassis and installed a cut-down, standard wall-switch box by drilling holes in the saw's plastic chassis. I then cut down a nylon type wall-switch cover and modified it to mount the new switch. I paralleled the connectors on the switch, basically turning it into a 40-amp switch. Should last a while, I think.

        Anyway, large-unit power-tool switches usually disconnect both the hot side and neutral side of the feed, probably because they are dual-use switches that can also deal with 240-volt feeds. I would imagine that the switch for the 4510 is a 20-amp version (many out there are 10 or 12-amp types) and it does get hit with quite a jolt when the unit is first turned on. Eventually, the contacts pit and perhaps the switch then becomes erratic. Even when working it may act as a ballast resistor and reduce current flow to the motor.

        Indeed, I have had switches go bad or act erratically on a number of my power tools, and I have sometimes opened them up and cleaned and sanded the contacts and at other times merely replaced them, usually with a switch with a higher amperage rating that has wider contact tabs. Most such switches are surprisingly flimsy, compared to really solidly built AC wall switches, and it pays to have some spares on hand (as noted, Grizzly sells them - and cheap) to allow for a faster fix than what would be the case with taking one of the things apart (tedious work) and doing a CLA job.

        Also, I have frequently removed existing switches from tools that have even fairly modest motors (3 to 8 amps) and replaced them with the 20-amp switches. That keeps them reliable for a longer time than typical. Admittedly, sometimes you have to drill, cut, and diddle a bit to get the new switches to fit, but it is worth the effort.

        Howard Ferstler

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