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  • Problems With New TS3650

    I just purchased the TS3650 after reading it's decent review in the latest edition of Fine Woodworking. I'm surprised they did not mention the problem that I discovered (unless I'm missing something!!) After stacking 2 dado blades (the two outers in the set for a 1/4" cut)I noticed that one blade cut about 1/16" deeper than the other. I noticed that if a single blade is used, it sits on a "shoulder" on the arbour. It fits very snug there. The other blade sits between the shoulder and the threads in a "dead zone" that has a different diameter than the shoulder making the blade spin off center-and deeper. I was not a happy camper. I put a piece of tape on the arbour to make up the slop-better, but not perfect. Anyone ever experienced this? I'm about ready to return it if they cannot do something about it. Maybe I just got a defective unit that never should have passed their quality controls. Thanks!

  • #2
    First, make sure the bores on your dado set are all equal. Also, if you have some calipers, see if you can get a measurement of the difference in diameters----just so you can have some figures to use in your conversations.

    If it is an arbor problem, I'd call Ridgid's main customer service line. I know they had this problem with some earlier Emerson-built saws, but they had corrected the problem long ago. I'd certainly push this with them. Eventually, you'll have to disassemble the arbor unit from the saw, in order to replace it----be sure to ask them for instructions. It can be done without instrcutions, but certainly a lot easier with them.
    Dave

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply. My dado inside diameters are exactly .625" on both blades (nice Delta blades)The arbor measures .625 on the "shoulder" where one blade sits. About 1/8" away (where the second blade sits) the diam. is .530"! This area is between where the threads end, and the "shoulder" begins. I called tech service and the winner told me to try and hold the blade "centered" while tightening. Should I really have to do that??? He said to mention it when I send the warranty info back and they'd look into it. Yeah, right.

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      • #4
        It does help to only post in one place---besides, drives me nuts thinking I'd answered this already----

        Hold the blade centered???? Well, you've got two choices----try to find someone who knows what they're talking about or take the saw back. I sure wouldn't put up with something like this.
        Dave

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        • #5
          Point well taken, I accidently put my post in the wrong spot, then reposted, sorry! Well, just got off the phone with Larry, the lead tech at Rigid Cust. Service. (he's very nice, don't get me wrong) Rigid is well aware of the problem and don't plan to do anything about it. They told me to return the saw! DON'T BUY THIS SAW IF YOU PLAN TO USE DADO BLADES!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Meanwhile, I have a 300lb. saw in my basement that took 5 hours to put together, and it needs to be returned. Anyone got suggestions on a comprable saw by a competitor?? Grizzly? Delta?

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          • #6
            I'm kind of speechless that this problem isn't well broadcast if it's more than a limited defect, and that they're doing nothing about it. Most wwers who would buy a saw of this caliber have a high possibility of using a stacked dado. Does this problem exist on all 3650s? 3650 owners, please chime in!

            Yes, Grizzly, Shop Fox, Delta, and Sears all have solid performers in the $500-$600 range....different features though. Hitachi has a new $500 saw, but I thought it was pretty poor compared to the others....disappointing.

            [ 11-30-2004, 07:17 PM: Message edited by: Knot Me ]

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            • #7
              Strong----Griz' has a contractors saw around $597, which everyone raves about. My personal favorite is the General. It's a rock solid saw and includes a licensed Biesemeyer fence----you can get it with a 30" extension for around $650 or a 50" for around $750--though, I think I heard the prices may have risen either due to the weak dollar or steel prices----I'd say check out both. Maybe, if you hadn't gotten the clueless answer when you called, I'd say give them a chance to fix it, but hey---you've got a right to expect the darned thing to be right.
              Dave

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              • #8
                You are all right! I am not very happy about this situation. Other than that, I love the saw. A mgr. level cust. serv. guy was supposed to call me back but didn't. Figures right? I am torn,between trying to come up with a way to make it work, or return it. One of the main reasons that I upgraded from my tiny old Crafstmen was for dado capability! AHHHG!!! Anyone else have this problem???

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                • #9
                  I just tried the same two blade set up using my frued dado blades. I noticed a slight difference in the bottom of the cut but a set of callipers showed the difference to be less than 1/64". Not enough for me to take the saw back.

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                  • #10
                    I never got any call backs on the leg twist(did you see how fast they removed the picture of additional braces on the web. when owners wanted that fix!) or arbor issue. I returned the saw to HD. I REALLY TRIED TO WORK WITH THE SAW AND IT COULD HAVE BEEN A GOOD PERFORMER. I know I may get posts saying I am over critical but I will not buy any more Ridgid power tool products, I talked my brother-in-law out if buying them too. He was shopping for a TS and CSMS. I can not believe that my Milwaulkee tools are now controlled by the same people.
                    My experiences with Jake,former CS rep.,made me buy the(grey) jp610,bs1400 and eb sander. The bs1400 was a lot of work to get tuned up, I do like the jp610 but I had to replace the defective fence(Jake was very helpful) and replace the motor( after Jake left) which they sent to me n/c. after some going up the line in CS. I just think this is not the way to do business and promote your products as "professional power tools"!

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                    • #11
                      Andrew---good luck looking for the new saw. Have to say (re: taking off pictures) they don't seem to have anyone like Jake to keep the natives from getting restless, but they sure do manage to take off stuff they don't like. And, you're right, it's no way to do business. Just look at what Jake was able to do for you alone-----instead of letting these problems fester and get to be bigger, Jake took care of business---thats why, with a couple of minor exceptions, I was once a big supporter of Ridgid tools and used to constantly recommend the 3612.
                      Dave

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                      • #12
                        At what thickness does the arbor become a non issue? Does this only affect 1/4" cuts?

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                        • #13
                          Some have said that the original arbor issue - the recess in the threads would NOT affect dado cuts wider than 1/4".

                          Another mention of the 1/4" width is that's the width where above that width you can do without the stabilizer washer. 1/4" and less, some say, is where you do need the stabilizer washer on inside the nut. But you will only see this stated where the shortness of the 3650 arbor is being discussed.

                          The 3650 manual was written to say that the washer didn't need to go onto the arbor when loading up for dado cuts up to 13/16". Some of us disagree with this, and some others suspect the manual was written that way because the arbors were specified incorrectly (too short to accomodate full width professional dado heads) and/or simply arrived at the factory that way.

                          So far Ridgid has not come clean on whether the arbors were incorrectly designed or incorrectly tooled.

                          My guess is that since the Dust Shroud clearance is as close to the end of the arbor as it is, that the arbor was spec'd short to begin with. Or that they used up arbors from a previous saw model carriage design. This may also explain why the solution for the original defect - the recess - has been so slow in coming.

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                          • #14
                            I wouldn't bark too much about the arbor length - the PM66 can't even take the full "adjustable dado" - and it's a $2,000 saw. In fact - most won't take the full dado stack.

                            The recess on the other hand - is not good. You should be able to get a flat bottomed dado on any saw. It sounds like Ridgid is fixing the solution and making good on their tools from what I've read. I hope they take care of it. If not - that's a shame for a 600 dollar tool

                            Jake

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                            • #15
                              As a Tool & Die maker/Machinist and woodworker/hobbiest I can tell you that any thread formed as you describe with a undercut at the end of the threads was done as a mistake in the machining process of the arbor. Q/C should have caught it (and probably did) but the piece(s) was sent to the assembly area without being replaced (by accident or on purpose) by the inspector (and/or his boss). I have turned many different threads on a lathe and know that the practice of stopping the feed at the end of the cut without moving the tool away from the piece is the lazy mans way of single-pointing (threading). Normally this causes no problem but in this case it does and I would expect Ridgid to send a replacement arbor as soon as they can. By the way I am buying this same model saw 'TS3650' for the reasons most of you did. Its a darned good saw for the money. and I myself can make a complete new arbor if I need to. If The company does not make good on replacement arbors, take the old one to a nearby job-shop and show them whats happened. They can and probably will make you one that works. Then send the bill to Ridgid and see if they will make things right and pay it. If not, it's still a darned good saw, hang in there.

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