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  • !4" band saw cuts

    I recently purchased a 14" floor model Ridgid bandsaw, and enjoyed putting it together. All is well, except that I cant get it to make cuts perpendicular with the miter gauge. The tension is right, and I have the guides set the way that the book explains. I even tried to set the miter gauge to compensate, but it still does not follow the line. Can someone help me? Thanks in advance, Bill

  • #2
    I dont have the saw but if you do a seach here you will find many suggestions. The most prevelant is to toss the blade that came with the saw and get a timberwolf or other such 'quality' blade

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    • #3
      I have to agree. Most companies do not give you a blade, just a piece of metal packing strap with teeth. Try Timberwolf or Olsen Pro blades. The are the smoothest running blades that I have found.
      I came...<br /><br />I saw...<br /><br />I changed the plans.

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      • #4
        I feel sorry for you for wasting your money on the Ridgid Band Saw, first of all.

        The blade that came with the saw is best used for cutting into small pieces and used as inlay knifes. Worthless as a band saw is concerned.

        Timberwolf blades dull way faster than the expense justifies. Olsen blades are my #1 choice. Carbide or Carbide composites are too brittle to consider on the small diameter 14" flywheels.

        As you you use the machine, you will begin to realize all the flaws manufactured into it. Again, I'm sorry for you for choosing a Ridgid Band Saw.
        John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

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        • #5
          Woody,
          I have read your posts on your band saw problems and you have my sympathy. I doubt that I would have been as understanding. I also have to say though, that I love my gray BS1400. Runs like a champ and cuts beautifully. Even my father-in-law, who is a Delta Cult Member, likes the saw. If you ever get to the midwest let me know. Your welcome to come by and make a some sawdust with mine to see what you think.
          I came...<br /><br />I saw...<br /><br />I changed the plans.

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          • #6
            I have the orange BS1400. For 300.00 it is a great saw for me.

            The biggest improvement is an aftermarket blade. Even the Delta blades they sell at my HD were a vast improvement. That being said the bandsaws as a group are unique in their tendancy to drift off of the cut line when set perfectly parallel to the blade. That why many better fences for the BS can adjust for this drift. It is not the best tool for a perpendicular cut across a wide board when using the miter slot.

            [ 06-24-2004, 03:01 PM: Message edited by: ChrisinMD ]

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            • #7
              I have to say that I am even more pleased now with my BS than before. I don't know why I didn't think of this with all my tinkering, but I took the advise I read on this board and moved the motor of my saw as far back as it would go. I added a few more links to the belt and now the bottom door opens completely. I also picked up one of those Sears tool lights on the flexable shaft that they had on sale. Cut me a little mounting plate and screwed it where the switch used to be and mounted the light base on it. Now I have a permantly attached light that easily moves out of the way and does not fall off like the old magnetic one that I had.
              I came...<br /><br />I saw...<br /><br />I changed the plans.

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              • #8
                I have the grey BS1400, and love it! I've carefully compared it to the equivelent Delta, and Craftsman, and they come from the same mold.
                With a good blade, you will happy.
                Rick

                Oh and by the way, the drift is a common Bandsaw characteristic.
                Rick

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                • #9
                  I've had my BS1400 for about 2 years and love it.
                  Set up properly and with a good blade, you should be happy with it. As for wandering, welcome to the world of bandsaws.
                  Good luck with it [img]smile.gif[/img]

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                  • #10
                    It's very simple-----you get what you pay for. Hate to say this, but people who spend $400 for a bandsaw and then complain it doesn't match up to the $850, USA-made Delta, either were sold a load of hype or are living in a dream world.

                    Now, to solve your problems or at least attempt to do so-----Do yourself a big favor and get either Lonnie Bird's The Band Saw Book or Mark Duginske's Mastering Wooworking Machines. These both have excellent methods of adjusting and tuning your band saw. For example, one of the first things you want to do is to make sure your wheels are co-planner----even my Delta saw wasn't until I added a second shaft bushing. That's just one step in the process.

                    As to blades, I've had nothing but good performance from Timberwolf blades----even the Delta blades aren't too bad.

                    No, it's doubtful your Ridgid will ever be a top notch saw, but a good alignment and set up will certainly give you better performance than what you're experiencing.
                    Dave

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                    • #11
                      The stock blade,wheel settings and tension is a problem but other things seem to add up to making all sort of problems. Adjustments are somewhat trial and error. I think you should look here http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp
                      http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/did_you_know.asp

                      I also did have to add some things. I have a grey one and the motor was not the TEFC and when I had some problems ,Ridgid(Jake) sent a replacement motor and top plate and motor The fan was also bent,like my TS 3650, but this one I had to straighten by heating the plastic. I changed the wiring to 240v and changed the top plate because the mounting is different than the old motor. The new top is stiffer than the old one. I also added some extra bolts and nuts to the brace plate on the unused slots and used fender washers where I could to the mounting bolts. I have the motor as far away as possible from the saw and used a link belt and removed some casting defects on the pulleys and made sure they where parallel under tension. I have rubber grommets on both sides of the motor mount. The motor cover I enlarged the holes for 1/4-20 screws and use wing nut on the underside so I do not have to have a wrench to remove it. Cool blocks,Timberwolf blade,Rockler urethane tires,Grizzly riser block,HF light (added an extra plug to the switch),rebalanced the wheels, Jet rip fence(same mount). I added a metal 4" blast gate and drilled a series of holes in the saw inside the gate opening for better dust collection (near the top edge outside the belt cover) . The Jet saw has a similar opening. The stock dust connection is not very useful.
                      If I had to do it again, I think the Delta(USA) is the way to go, or may be the Grizzly. It is is OK now but I think that it takes too much time to get this tuned up if you are going to be critical. I have never had to do this much to any machine to get it to be useable to my liking. The vibration was very bad and now it is minimal. The 240v makes a noticeable improvement. The belt will even slip a bit now on startup because is is very strong now. It does not slip during use .

                      [ 07-04-2004, 02:42 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Benedetto ]

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